Rough Idling - almost self revving?
#16
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: gods country, yorkshire england
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hi penut, sorry for the delay but been to busy at work , your auxillary air regulator/control valve will be located in the air intake system usually between the fuel distributor body and inlet manifold... happy hunting
john
john
#17
Burning Brakes
Originally posted by johnchad
hi penut, sorry for the delay but been to busy at work , your auxillary air regulator/control valve will be located in the air intake system usually between the fuel distributor body and inlet manifold... happy hunting
john
hi penut, sorry for the delay but been to busy at work , your auxillary air regulator/control valve will be located in the air intake system usually between the fuel distributor body and inlet manifold... happy hunting
john
I know where the valve is It was me that first suggested it as the likely culpret at the beginning of this thread.
Mine has been removed and cleaned but with no great improvement so will have to consider renewal shortly
#19
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cambs UK
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Hello Gents
Thanks for this - it was me and my P car causing angst!! Sorted now, though I am unsure what was up. I wonder if a battery in poor order could really cause this? The air hose problem mentioned 1/2 weeks ago was the oily smell in cab prob, but all the stuff I fiddled with last few days has resulted in fine working order - for a 23 year car that's good.
The air reg and control valves were all ID'd and all I did was check connections and blitzed everything with WD-40...marvellous stuff - Carlsberg for Cars.
So - in my humble opinion a combination of all above and beyind in thread, and particulalry the electrics have been resolved. The check of tank and connecting hoses and other periphery may have contributed too!
But thanks guys all the same - now I have 4 months of pleasure to cover 6000 miles before Ins due again!! Managed 150 today up and down A1 and A14...BLISS!!
My next query, living in Cambridgeshire I need a good bodywork place - bubbly rust bit round headlamps (cosmetic) and a 'stupid' rear arch got in the way of my garage wall - again cosmetic!!! Advice appreciated as always guys!!
Thanks
Yes johnchad - dont walk...drive, never argue with that!!
Thanks for this - it was me and my P car causing angst!! Sorted now, though I am unsure what was up. I wonder if a battery in poor order could really cause this? The air hose problem mentioned 1/2 weeks ago was the oily smell in cab prob, but all the stuff I fiddled with last few days has resulted in fine working order - for a 23 year car that's good.
The air reg and control valves were all ID'd and all I did was check connections and blitzed everything with WD-40...marvellous stuff - Carlsberg for Cars.
So - in my humble opinion a combination of all above and beyind in thread, and particulalry the electrics have been resolved. The check of tank and connecting hoses and other periphery may have contributed too!
But thanks guys all the same - now I have 4 months of pleasure to cover 6000 miles before Ins due again!! Managed 150 today up and down A1 and A14...BLISS!!
My next query, living in Cambridgeshire I need a good bodywork place - bubbly rust bit round headlamps (cosmetic) and a 'stupid' rear arch got in the way of my garage wall - again cosmetic!!! Advice appreciated as always guys!!
Thanks
Yes johnchad - dont walk...drive, never argue with that!!
#21
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peanut
...in a 23 year-old car, it was distance!! Managed 130/132 mph last summer on A1 for a few miles - police are a presence though! Rarely take it over 110 mph now, though I enjoy the chase in 3rd at 80/90 in moderate traffic. The acceleration is what does it for me!!
I'm mad but careful at my age!
Ta
burnsa
...in a 23 year-old car, it was distance!! Managed 130/132 mph last summer on A1 for a few miles - police are a presence though! Rarely take it over 110 mph now, though I enjoy the chase in 3rd at 80/90 in moderate traffic. The acceleration is what does it for me!!
I'm mad but careful at my age!
Ta
burnsa
#22
Burning Brakes
Originally posted by burnsa
peanut
...in a 23 year-old car, it was distance!! Managed 130/132 mph last summer on A1 for a few miles - police are a presence though! Rarely take it over 110 mph now, though I enjoy the chase in 3rd at 80/90 in moderate traffic. The acceleration is what does it for me!!
I'm mad but careful at my age!
Ta
burnsa
peanut
...in a 23 year-old car, it was distance!! Managed 130/132 mph last summer on A1 for a few miles - police are a presence though! Rarely take it over 110 mph now, though I enjoy the chase in 3rd at 80/90 in moderate traffic. The acceleration is what does it for me!!
I'm mad but careful at my age!
Ta
burnsa
Once did Oxford to Bath in under 40 minutes in an MGB with the needle off the dial.
Now I enjoy a relaxing daily drive to and from work (60miles each way) listening to the radio and taking in the countryside at a sedate 80mph with an occasional burst up to 100 just to show some hothatch a clean pair of heels when they ride my bumper. They probably think `silly old fart should be driving a fiesta'!
#23
Rennlist Member
Bit late now you've fixed it but....
There is a manual for the 911 SC/3.2 Carrera printed by Bentley Publishers which contains this paragraph
regarding the electronic ignition on the 911.
Page 200-13 Engine management
"All the cars covered by this manual use engine management systems that rely
on precise electrical signals for proper operation. Some of the DME circuits
operate on very low current and are sensitive to increased resistance due to
faulty or corroded wiring or connectors. If any of these signals are
distorted, incorrect or missing the car can develop major driveability
problems."
There is a manual for the 911 SC/3.2 Carrera printed by Bentley Publishers which contains this paragraph
regarding the electronic ignition on the 911.
Page 200-13 Engine management
"All the cars covered by this manual use engine management systems that rely
on precise electrical signals for proper operation. Some of the DME circuits
operate on very low current and are sensitive to increased resistance due to
faulty or corroded wiring or connectors. If any of these signals are
distorted, incorrect or missing the car can develop major driveability
problems."