Randy V

posting a couple pics for discussion as the PM function does not permit attached images.

Alan

Randy,
Yellow wire = CE Pin S11 (Hatch Motor+)

See attached for future ref

Alan

Randy V

Thanks, man!

Was that yellow wire previously attached, or did we leave it unattached at the time of install?

The hatch release wasn't working at the time due to latch/receiver issues (though the release motor was functioning properly).

Randy V

Pic of CE panel - disconnected wire is at lower left. Zoom in if needed.

Alan

Here:

Randy V

OK, I've tapped it into the indicated yellow wire.

But, when I push the 'trunk' button on the fob the rear hatch motor does not cycle.

The motor does cycle when I pull the driver side hatch release ****.

Alan

Randy,
For the hatch release you need to hold the button for about 3 seconds for it to activate... did you wait that long?

Alan

Randy V

Yeah, I've held it down for up to 10 seconds.

I can hear the KE box click after 3 seconds, but no hatch motor cycle.

Maybe I don't have a good tap connection to the CE panel wire?

Alan

So if its clicking it seem the relays work - put a finger on each make sure you can feel each switching.

What the relays do is:

One relay connects the motor supply to power (12v)
the other connects the brown/white interior light wire wire to ground.. this over-rides the interlock that only allows the hatch to be release with the door open.

Try operating the hatch release by remote while a door is open. This will ensure the motor is grounded - it will help diagnose what isn't working?

Alan

Randy V

Thanks, man.

I didn't realize that one of the doors must be open to operate the hatch release.

So, it still does not cycle using the remote fob when the door is open. The release does cycle using the driver side switch.

Alan

Randy,
Assuming I followed the diagram I posted earlier in building it - I think one of the relays is connected incorrectly.

One relay should connect the motor initiation wire to 12V while the other connects the Brown/White wire to ground to simulate the door being open (interior lights will come on). It looks like in my diagram they both actually connect to 12V - if so that will do nothing.

Options are I could tell you how to fix it - but you don't have the tools... Or you could remove the module (the brown circuit board) after photographing what wires connect where and insulating all the wires - and I will fix it for you and send it back.

I figure you will want the latter.

Send to me:

Alan Moore
2528 E. Cathedral Rock Dr
Phoenix, Az 85048

Alan

Alan

BTW - I believe some of these connectors are pull apart - the parts with the wires screwed in pulls out from the part soldered to the board - makes life easier - check.

Alan

Randy V

Success!

I had suspected that splice connector all along, so did a continuity test between the CE board pinout and the remote controller box.

Yep, no continuity!

Fiddled with a new splice connector to get a solid connection.

Hatch motor now cycles with the remote fob.

Thanks, Alan!

Alan

OK excellent!!

Its great when it works isn't it!

In that case here is a new version of the wiring diagram that is actually correct to how I built it!

Alan