OT: gas fireplace maintenance
12-03-2012, 01:48 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
OT: gas fireplace maintenance
Any recommendations on someone to service gas fireplaces 401 Yonge area?
Normally I'd DIY but the wife started mumbling something about gas, explosions and void insurance, then pointed out the p-car was at risk in the garage, figured its time for a specialist.
Tks
Normally I'd DIY but the wife started mumbling something about gas, explosions and void insurance, then pointed out the p-car was at risk in the garage, figured its time for a specialist.
Tks
12-03-2012, 08:28 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
There's a company that sells/installs fireplaces in Toronto called Marsh's Stove and Fireplace.
3322 Dundas St. West 416-762-4582
I'm not sure if they do maintenances or not.
3322 Dundas St. West 416-762-4582
I'm not sure if they do maintenances or not.
12-03-2012, 09:56 PM
#3
Team Owner
whats wrong with it ?
ive had mine over 20 years and i just vacuum it out ,and its fine. did you turn off the pilot for the summer and now it wont sty lit ?
ive had mine over 20 years and i just vacuum it out ,and its fine. did you turn off the pilot for the summer and now it wont sty lit ?
12-03-2012, 09:58 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
what kind of maintenance? I didn't think they have any moving parts just a gas line and thingys that disperse the gas. just turn off the shutoff and clean it no?
there was a fireplace shop located at 401 and YOnge but it is gone.
try calling a gas man or another fireplace shop but should be easy to DIY very simple devices. I did have one in my old house.
there was a fireplace shop located at 401 and YOnge but it is gone.
try calling a gas man or another fireplace shop but should be easy to DIY very simple devices. I did have one in my old house.
12-03-2012, 10:59 PM
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
On one the pilot is lit, but its hit or miss if it comes on with the switch. The second, in the basement I've tried a few times but can't get the pilot to light. Gas has been off to this one for 3 years, (toddlers in the house 
)
)
12-03-2012, 11:08 PM
#7
Race Car
I had the same problem years ago . Called the furnace guy and all he did was run a pipe cleaner through the pilot holes to clean out debris and then after he lit it, he kept tapping the pilot with the but end of his screwdriver. Flame would flicker and orange bits would spark and burn off.
5 minutes of tapping, no more sparking, clean pilot flame, no more problem. I now do the same every year. Lights every time.
$157.00 lesson.
5 minutes of tapping, no more sparking, clean pilot flame, no more problem. I now do the same every year. Lights every time.
$157.00 lesson.
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12-03-2012, 11:13 PM
#8
Drifting
I've had two gas fireplace in two houses, each for almost 10 years, never had any problems with the first one. I did have a problem with the second on a few years ago of not able to keep the pilot light to stay lit after releasing the valve, I found out that:
- The fireplace service people are real busy this time of the year
- Some shops won't service fireplaces installed by other shops, liability issue I guess
- It can get quite expensive with a service person out
I decided to have a go myself, learned a lot reading up on how these systems work, the pilot light in modern fireplaces is actually used to generate electriciy with the heat applied on several thermal-couple tied together, actually called "thermo-pile", this minute amount of electricity is what turns on and off the gas flow control valve when you flip the switch, this is how you can turn on the fireplace even during total electrical power outage.
My problem appeared to be lack of voltage when I measured it, I thought I had a bad thermo-pile, but thought the pilot flame seemed to be weaker than I recall the previous winter, so I decided to remove the metal disk above the pilot flame orfice, the metal disk only rests on the orfice from gravity, what I found when I removed the disk was a dead spider which had crawled in there sometime during the spring/summer/fall, it had restricted the amount of gas coming out of the orfice to reduce the heat of the pilot light flame!
The gas fireplace worked perfectly after I vacuumed out the dead spider, and it cost me nothing to "repair", hate to think what a dishonest repair shop would have told me, "Sir, you need a new fireplace!".
OP, the problems you described could be sticky valves which may require replacement, it's best to get them checked out by a pro unless you found something as obvious as I did with my fireplace.
- The fireplace service people are real busy this time of the year
- Some shops won't service fireplaces installed by other shops, liability issue I guess
- It can get quite expensive with a service person out
I decided to have a go myself, learned a lot reading up on how these systems work, the pilot light in modern fireplaces is actually used to generate electriciy with the heat applied on several thermal-couple tied together, actually called "thermo-pile", this minute amount of electricity is what turns on and off the gas flow control valve when you flip the switch, this is how you can turn on the fireplace even during total electrical power outage.
My problem appeared to be lack of voltage when I measured it, I thought I had a bad thermo-pile, but thought the pilot flame seemed to be weaker than I recall the previous winter, so I decided to remove the metal disk above the pilot flame orfice, the metal disk only rests on the orfice from gravity, what I found when I removed the disk was a dead spider which had crawled in there sometime during the spring/summer/fall, it had restricted the amount of gas coming out of the orfice to reduce the heat of the pilot light flame!
The gas fireplace worked perfectly after I vacuumed out the dead spider, and it cost me nothing to "repair", hate to think what a dishonest repair shop would have told me, "Sir, you need a new fireplace!".
OP, the problems you described could be sticky valves which may require replacement, it's best to get them checked out by a pro unless you found something as obvious as I did with my fireplace.
12-04-2012, 12:39 AM
#13
Instructor
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I'm really happy with a company called Ultra Home Products. They replaced my furnace, installed 2 gas lines, and purchased a bbq which they assembled for me. Always amazing service and reliable with pretty good prices. Ask for Raustin and you can tell him you know me (Ed) if you want. Here is their website.
http://www.ultrahome.ca/en/
Btw...no affiliation, just a happy client.
http://www.ultrahome.ca/en/
Btw...no affiliation, just a happy client.
12-04-2012, 09:14 AM
#14
Team Owner
Kens advice is pretty well right on the money
The honeywell thermopile needs to generate i think around 200mv in order to keep the gas valve open. As the device gets old the voltage drops until the fireplace just goes out. They are very reliable tho so make sure you are getting the full force of the flame. on it and not blocked.
I also have a challenge lighting mine at the beginning of the season , as if it doesnt catch right away and gas is present it will go in to lock out.
i usually just fire that pezo electric thing like a banshee then push the pilot button imn .. sometimes have to do it over a coupld days to get it to light .. once it does I jamb something to keep the pilot button in for about 15 minutes. ( used to be 30 seconds ) after that it says lit and im good to go for the year.
The honeywell thermopile needs to generate i think around 200mv in order to keep the gas valve open. As the device gets old the voltage drops until the fireplace just goes out. They are very reliable tho so make sure you are getting the full force of the flame. on it and not blocked.
I also have a challenge lighting mine at the beginning of the season , as if it doesnt catch right away and gas is present it will go in to lock out.
i usually just fire that pezo electric thing like a banshee then push the pilot button imn .. sometimes have to do it over a coupld days to get it to light .. once it does I jamb something to keep the pilot button in for about 15 minutes. ( used to be 30 seconds ) after that it says lit and im good to go for the year.
12-04-2012, 10:16 AM
#15
Drifting
Clive,
The thermopile voltage output should be around 400-450 million-volt, IIRC I was reading 300 mV or less, which was why the voltage was insufficient to keep the has valve open, sounds like your thermopile maybe getting really old and weak with voltage output, not sure if there is a lifespan rating of these things.
The thermopile voltage output should be around 400-450 million-volt, IIRC I was reading 300 mV or less, which was why the voltage was insufficient to keep the has valve open, sounds like your thermopile maybe getting really old and weak with voltage output, not sure if there is a lifespan rating of these things.