Dragged home one of these.
#47
Captain Obvious
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Screw that, I'll just figure it out as I go along. Did the same thing with the 928 when I dragged it home from Boston with a broken timing belt.
In all seriousness, I really appreciate helpnig out with the research. It gave me a little more insight on what can be wrong.
Been home with the stomach flew for 2 days now but, today figured I'm strong enough to work on the car and the washroom was only a few steps away. Worked like a charm and the engine is out. Took about the same time as any other engine on most of the other project cars but, except for two screws, I didn't use any power tools.
#49
Captain Obvious
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Yes, that's my neightbour's ATV jack with 3 patio stones (bought to jacknup the last project car) and a half inch rubber bad on top to cushion the oil pan. Also, yes, the transmission came down with the engine. Have a second small jack under it and is strapped to the tail of the transmission. So far have about 10 hrs in it. One hour was wasted on re positioning the jack stands.
#51
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Not yet. Will have to shuffle some cars around to make room in the garage for the engine. Then I'll try to get a federalization inspection at CT without the engine. That should be intereating.
#52
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Rolled the engine out from the car and then put in the garage. There is a sign of coolant leak at the air oil seperator (I think that's what that is). Man this is a big engine. Looks the same size as all other DOHC V6s. Tomorrow splitting the engine and the transmission and putting the engine on a stand.
#56
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Engine is split from transmission. Clutch is shot, the pressure plate side was well into the rivets. Must have been slipping for some time, it's probably original but it wasn't abused. Pinned the engine with a SBC pushrod, it's an exact fit. At the back of the engine, there is sign of oil leak, either at the main seal of at the IMS flange. Hard to tell but it was slowly leaking from a long time. Cam timing on the passanger side looks almost spot on but the driver side is waaaay off. Once the IMA flange was off, the bearing looks good, but maybe I'm looking at it from the wrong side. There is a tiny amount of play but it's not wobling like some I've seen when I was gathering information for this project. I need to make or get my hands on an IMS bearing puller. Till then, I'm stuck.
#57
Captain Obvious
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Engine serial number is: M96/0166X05872. Does the X stands for rebuilt?
Also, did a second check on the IMS bearing at it feels prefectly normal. Front bearing seal looks good, no sign of oil leaking through it, and spins nice and smooth. The only resitance are the seals of the bearing. Things are starting to look pretty good.
Also, did a second check on the IMS bearing at it feels prefectly normal. Front bearing seal looks good, no sign of oil leaking through it, and spins nice and smooth. The only resitance are the seals of the bearing. Things are starting to look pretty good.
#58
Drifting
There would be a AT if is was reman, like mine (M96/01AT66X65297). X indicated 1999 I believe
If yous do a search on renntech for "996 engine serial number" you can find some help decoding it.
Here are the basics.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l?ref=esp-link
If yous do a search on renntech for "996 engine serial number" you can find some help decoding it.
Here are the basics.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l?ref=esp-link
Last edited by 996_North; 07-22-2012 at 06:40 PM.
#59
Captain Obvious
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Ok, thanks. Looks like it's an original engine, I'm interested to see what the cylinder bores look like. There are no signs of excessive oil consumption. The plugs looked good, the exhaust ports look normal too.
Staring at the removed valve cover for an hour, finally FOUND cause of the chain jumping!!! Small pieces of one the guides have wedged intself between the double roller chain and the cam sprocket. This lifter the cain up and slightly missaligned the each link. 5 links from this point, the sprocket tooh was half a link away, enough to make the chain jump.
The lower timing chain ramp looks ok, still have to remove the cams to get the upper ramp out.
Earlier, looked through the plugs holes with a borescope and saw valve contact marks on top of all the pistons on the driver side. Passange side looked intact. I'll do a leakdown on it a little later to see why the compression was low (cam timing is dead on) on the passanger side.
Staring at the removed valve cover for an hour, finally FOUND cause of the chain jumping!!! Small pieces of one the guides have wedged intself between the double roller chain and the cam sprocket. This lifter the cain up and slightly missaligned the each link. 5 links from this point, the sprocket tooh was half a link away, enough to make the chain jump.
The lower timing chain ramp looks ok, still have to remove the cams to get the upper ramp out.
Earlier, looked through the plugs holes with a borescope and saw valve contact marks on top of all the pistons on the driver side. Passange side looked intact. I'll do a leakdown on it a little later to see why the compression was low (cam timing is dead on) on the passanger side.
Last edited by Imo000; 07-22-2012 at 11:05 PM.
#60
Captain Obvious
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Head is off, all 6 exhaust vavles are bent really good. Intakes look intact. The double roller cam sprocket has a really good chunk of tensioner material stuck in it. Contact marks are visible on the pistons but they are not bad. Bores look ok at first glance. Centre cylinder has one single long scratch, from before this incident but, it's livable. Tomorrow will be doing a leakdown on the other side to see what is going on. The borescope didn't show any contact marks on the pistons and there was some compression on that side.
On a side note, I'm willing to bet that with some special/creative tools, this head can be taken off with the engine in the car. There were only four 6mm bolts holding the intake manifod from the top. Everything else is acessible from the side or below.
On a side note, I'm willing to bet that with some special/creative tools, this head can be taken off with the engine in the car. There were only four 6mm bolts holding the intake manifod from the top. Everything else is acessible from the side or below.