2001 996 battery current draw
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#18
+9
Oakville Starter & Alternator has rebuilt several p-car alternators for me. Highly recommended.
http://www.oakvillestarteralternatorlimited.ca/
Oakville Starter & Alternator has rebuilt several p-car alternators for me. Highly recommended.
http://www.oakvillestarteralternatorlimited.ca/
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
+9
Oakville Starter & Alternator has rebuilt several p-car alternators for me. Highly recommended.
http://www.oakvillestarteralternatorlimited.ca/
Oakville Starter & Alternator has rebuilt several p-car alternators for me. Highly recommended.
http://www.oakvillestarteralternatorlimited.ca/
Last edited by Granger968; 08-14-2018 at 08:20 PM.
#20
Drifting
standard multimeter is usually fine for this. JP's was unusually high but even at that, most meters will handle around 10amps. Just remember to start at the highest setting if it is not an autoranging meter and adjust the meter down for better resolution. If not you can blow the fuse in the meter.
kinda like this? (I don't know if the polarity matters, but I think this pic might be backwards....)
#21
The rebuilds come back fully painted and looking like new. The rebuilt one on my 87 is still running a solid 14v after about 20k km's.
#22
$200 for a rebuilt alternator is not a bad price at all.
For those who are handy, you can buy an alternator rebuild kit and do it yourself and have a lot of money leftover.
For those who are handy, you can buy an alternator rebuild kit and do it yourself and have a lot of money leftover.
#23
Team Owner
the key is disconnecting the battery and putting the meter in between so the current flows through the meter ( in series as you mention ) . This Is why you start on the highest setting, too much current and you can fry your meter or at least blow the fuse.
If you had a parasitic drain you would connect as you showed and look at the total current draw from the battery. ( mine is 15ma ) . if it was high ( say 200-300 ) you would start popping fuses to see what circuit is causing the draw (exactly as JP did ) . If it suddenly drops you now know what circuit is causing it .
In JPs case no subcircuit was causing it . There is a direct unfused high current link from the alternator right to the battery to charge it . The alternator has a diode bridge in it to convert ac voltage generated from the alternator to DC voltage required by the car . Diodes allow current to flow only one way . When one goes bad it allows current to flow the other way from the battery and discharges it.
This is what makes me think the regulator wont fix it . I think he has a diode pack issue.
#24
Before and after rebuild. I would do it myself but when they go in looking like a bag of crap and come back like this it's an easy choice. This is the 89 Euro that sat in a wet garage for 10 years.
#25
Team Owner
usually a rebuild covers bushings, lathing the commutator and a new regulator . I would be surprised if it covers the diode pack . most times they are spot welded in and its a bit of work to replace , even if you can get one.
#26
Race Car
I agree letting the pros do the rebuild. In my eyes there is nothing prettier than a freshly rebuilt alternator or starter.
The beauty of it is there are lots of places to get it done.
The beauty of it is there are lots of places to get it done.
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got a rebuild yesterday. Ordered at 9am, delivered at 3pm. Won't be able to install it until the weekend though...