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Unless you are putting in an actual bathroom, a urinal would be pretty disgusting. Just plant some privacy shrubs outside and go el natural.
How big is your garage? Personally I would get rid of the lift as it appears to take up most of the space? In the winter time you can tuck your p car to the right and have loads of room.
I'm lucky that I have 22 ft and can still store a car beside my 2 post. This also lets me use my lift on my daily's in the winter. Do you have this much space?
@SToronto, I know one guy. Let me reach out to him and get back to you. What did you need done?
@911 Rod, haha, no washroom going in there I was just kidding. Garage is 18' wide by 20' deep.. it has that protrusion at the end for the closet in the house. If I moved the lift all the way to one side I think I could tuck another car beside it. When I was looking for a house, one of the "wants" that I had was to have a single garage door, this way I could put a lift or scissors hoist more centered in the garage. At my parents place they have a two door garage, and that partition gets in the way if you want to bring the car in and work on the car with space on both sides. The plan to have the lift in there is key as it will let me store 2 cars while still giving me 1/3 of the garage to put cabinets and a work bench and have decent space all around the car to work on it etc. 22ft would be great, sounds like you have a true 2 car garage, short of a 3 car garage that would be perfect for me.
I added some more items to the 3D rendering just for ****s, found a 996 model online and I drew up the other cabinets just to see how stuff fits. Might shift the cabinets on the right closer to the door.
You need to provide a fire rating / smoke seal from the garage to your residing areas. This would be to apply a sealant from the drywall bottom to the foundation wall. Exterior walls excluded. Vertical drywall joints should be fire taped so all is good there.
You need to provide a fire rating / smoke seal from the garage to your residing areas. This would be to apply a sealant from the drywall bottom to the foundation wall. Exterior walls excluded. Vertical drywall joints should be fire taped so all is good there.
Tremco: Tremstop Acrylic Firestop would suffice.
Mumbles, can you point me int he direction of where it says I’m required to provide firerating ona builtin garage, as per the OBC and the multiple architects I have consulted and a few home builders, with a built in garage it is considered apart of the dwelling and fire rating is not required. I do however require to provide gas proofing/air barrier on wall boardering interior walls, which will includes fully sealing all joints. If you could point me in the direction where it states that I need to provide a fire rated separation for a built in garage, please lmk as I would like to challenge those who have confirmed to me that it is not required.
Your design is flawed. I see flat screen. Where is the beer fridge?
I need new friends
Hahaha, very true! i'm going to try and find a place for the mini fridge, it will be a small one like those red bull mini fridges. I've been looking out for one on Kijiji for some time now. If the budget allows i'l try and get that curved screen in there so it matches the one in my living room lol!
Enjoying the progress, thank you for sharing. I am in the midst of starting my garage build; Going to try give sketchUp a try, never heard of them till I saw your post.
If you want to make your garage feel bigger, don't have anything on the floor.
Mount your cabinets to the wall and use braces for any tables.
Makes a huge difference and easier to clean the floor.
O/P - in your original photo. All that original crappy drywall and cheap skim coat of mud and tape? That is the minimal code for garage for fire. Drywall, tape and one coat. That is all they have to do to pass.
You have lots of pink insulation to move. Glasses and gloves + face mask.. In the event you need more insulation. I prefer using ROXUL/rockwoll insulation. It cuts wonderfully with your wife's best bread knife.
Waterproof, fire retardant, and the critters don't like it. And easily removed, stacked and replaced. Better soundproofing too.
Don't forget speaker wire, CAD5, Coax, bell line, maybe alarm wires and motion detectors. Nest cam? You'll need power there too.
This garage could be high moisture. It your doing a drywall corner, try not to do steel. It may rust through the paint? Do a paper and plastic corner bead.
2nd for Rockwool. Much easier to work with than fiberglass + fire rating + not affected by moisture.
I just want to add this: I did some major renos this spring, and there is this new company in the GTA called "Reno-Run". They have a fleet of delivery vans. You order your supplies off of their app and they pick it, and deliver for a small fee. Not having to go get supplies, load them, and unload them saved me so much time and hassle it was worth every penny. Maybe there is something like it in your neck of the woods.
Guys, I just want to clarify. There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding the requirement of a fire rating for a garage attached to a residential building.
Dispelling the Myth
Just to sum up from my previous posts what I have done to confirm this and how you can confirm this for yourself. (post #17, I touched on this)
As per discussing this topic with 4 Architects, and recently reached out to a fire protection engineering consultant, all have confirmed as per the code below there is no requirement for fire rating in a residential garage, well at least for my garage and others similar in construction as mine. Now unless your personal home does not comply with this code's requirements/criteria, it may be different for you hence why you may require a fire separation.
The reason why I have drywall in my garage much like other houses similar to mine is not for fire rating, it is for providing a gas barrier/air barrier. This is why the drywall is taped and sealed at all seams. If garages like mine were to have a 1, 1.5, 2 hr rating required, the easy tell tale sign would be to check your garage door leading to inside your house. If your walls are fire rated, your door must be as well, as the same for the door frame which would need to be steel. 9/10 doors and door frames that lead into the garage from the house are identical to your front door (if not the same) which has no fire rating and have wood frames. Once way to check is to look for a ULC plaque, also the door will list its rating. This door will be equipped with a door closer to provide the required gas/air barrier. As with the drywall, same as the door, these are only for gas/air barrier code compliance and provide no significant fire rating as it is not required as per OBC 9.10.9.16 (3).
I'm hoping that this clarifies to all. If you have contradictory information please do share as I would love to challenge the 4 architects and fire protection engineer. My above explanation is specific to my situation and possibly others like mine but may not apply to your home.
As per the conversation about the Roxul insulation, I agree 100% this stuff is far superior to the pink fiberglass stuff. I actually was at a presentation where Roxul demonstrated the fire resistance and insulating properties of the product. I may change out the pink stuff for the Roxul. Putting large focus on insulating the garage may not be a direction I may go as I will not be providing any supplementary heating for the garage. As someone mentioned on here, their is no point in insulating the garage if you are not heating it. I will most likely not be using the garage as a work area during the winter, it will be acting more as a storage space for the car, the john deere mower and tools. However I do see the advantage of using Roxul for the walls that boarder the interior so we will see.
07-20-2018, 01:57 PM
