OT - Water Pooling on Garage Floor
#17
If you only have one low spot in a garage floor slab jacking won't be the solution. Concrete does not sink, its the substrate its poured on that gives way. If you have a low spot in the floor area its usually due to installation and improper screeding. What has been done before is to get the core drill machine and drill a 6" hole. Remove the "A" gravel to a good depth say 24" , insert a 6" perforated "O" tube for the full height, add a little bit of 9mm round stone to the bottom and cut in a perforated drain cover flush with the concrete surface. It may not look uniform due to the location of the low area but will remove the majority of standing water.
Last edited by Mumbles; 01-17-2018 at 08:22 PM.
#18
#19
Rennlist Member
If you only have one low spot in a garage floor slab jacking won't be the solution. Concrete does not sink, its the substrate its poured on that gives way. If you have a low spot in the floor area its usually due to installation and improper screeding. What has been done before is to get the core drill machine and drill a 6" hole. Remove the "A" gravel to a good depth say 24" , insert a 6" perforated "O" tube for the full height, add a little bit of 9mm round stone to the bottom and cut in a perforated drain cover flush with the concrete surface. It may not look uniform due to the location of the low area but will remove the majority of standing water.
#20
If you only have one low spot in a garage floor slab jacking won't be the solution. Concrete does not sink, its the substrate its poured on that gives way. If you have a low spot in the floor area its usually due to installation and improper screeding. What has been done before is to get the core drill machine and drill a 6" hole. Remove the "A" gravel to a good depth say 24" , insert a 6" perforated "O" tube for the full height, add a little bit of 9mm round stone to the bottom and cut in a perforated drain cover flush with the concrete surface. It may not look uniform due to the location of the low area but will remove the majority of standing water.
Gary
#21
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
That's a good way to destroy the road base and then the entire road. The City of Buffalo does this?
#22
#23
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Really? Doesn't have to go deep. As soon as water gets into the base it will destroy the flexible pavement. This is the reason crack sealing is done on roads. I'm going to look into this drainage hole method as I've never seen it done before.
#24
del
Last edited by gbuff; 01-20-2018 at 05:18 PM.
#25
Pro
Depends what your ground is like. Is sandy? Is it clay? While the "french drain" idea will get things moving. The perforated pipe im assuming would be a pvc type with holes in side not weeper. The weeper would be very hard to get to seat well enough that the water would actually go down it. Also id think when digging the hole out youll undermine the slab a bit. Maybe just repour? Take the opportunity to put hydronics in floor? Or like someone said get a squeegee. Really .. most /all self levelers will fail. You can etch /grind/ epoxy pin add bounding agent or whatever. But if its a thin layer itll crack up. Thicker will last cause theres meat there.... best way is new. Patches dont work. Is it a newer place? Any tarion?
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all of the advise. Leaning towards the French drain option. I do sweep it out every few days although to keep the water to an 'acceptable depth' would be a part time job. A simpler option may be to add garage sweeping to my sons (aged 8 & 10) chore list, or perhaps ask my wife to not park in the garage thereby reducing the issue by 50% (+/-).