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Old 01-17-2018, 06:21 PM
  #16  
old man neri
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You can also buy something called a 'parking containment mat'. It will at least help keep water from getting to unwanted places.
Old 01-17-2018, 07:57 PM
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Mumbles
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If you only have one low spot in a garage floor slab jacking won't be the solution. Concrete does not sink, its the substrate its poured on that gives way. If you have a low spot in the floor area its usually due to installation and improper screeding. What has been done before is to get the core drill machine and drill a 6" hole. Remove the "A" gravel to a good depth say 24" , insert a 6" perforated "O" tube for the full height, add a little bit of 9mm round stone to the bottom and cut in a perforated drain cover flush with the concrete surface. It may not look uniform due to the location of the low area but will remove the majority of standing water.

Last edited by Mumbles; 01-17-2018 at 08:22 PM.
Old 01-17-2018, 09:08 PM
  #18  
Tj40
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Originally Posted by BIG smoke
"If you seek permission."
LOL :-)
Old 01-19-2018, 12:54 PM
  #19  
vetfever
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Originally Posted by Mumbles
If you only have one low spot in a garage floor slab jacking won't be the solution. Concrete does not sink, its the substrate its poured on that gives way. If you have a low spot in the floor area its usually due to installation and improper screeding. What has been done before is to get the core drill machine and drill a 6" hole. Remove the "A" gravel to a good depth say 24" , insert a 6" perforated "O" tube for the full height, add a little bit of 9mm round stone to the bottom and cut in a perforated drain cover flush with the concrete surface. It may not look uniform due to the location of the low area but will remove the majority of standing water.
Even better than my solution.
Old 01-19-2018, 05:06 PM
  #20  
gbuff
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Originally Posted by Mumbles
If you only have one low spot in a garage floor slab jacking won't be the solution. Concrete does not sink, its the substrate its poured on that gives way. If you have a low spot in the floor area its usually due to installation and improper screeding. What has been done before is to get the core drill machine and drill a 6" hole. Remove the "A" gravel to a good depth say 24" , insert a 6" perforated "O" tube for the full height, add a little bit of 9mm round stone to the bottom and cut in a perforated drain cover flush with the concrete surface. It may not look uniform due to the location of the low area but will remove the majority of standing water.
I've seen this done on newly-paved roads where there may be a spot or two of water pooling by the curb; rather than put in full-blown drainage after the fact, a small drain similar to above is cut into the road that will drain right into the stone below. Works great.

Gary
Old 01-19-2018, 05:13 PM
  #21  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by gbuff
I've seen this done on newly-paved roads where there may be a spot or two of water pooling by the curb; rather than put in full-blown drainage after the fact, a small drain similar to above is cut into the road that will drain right into the stone below. Works great.

Gary
That's a good way to destroy the road base and then the entire road. The City of Buffalo does this?
Old 01-19-2018, 05:42 PM
  #22  
gbuff
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Originally Posted by Imo000
That's a good way to destroy the road base and then the entire road. The City of Buffalo does this?
Won't happen--not going as deep into the road as the example above.
Old 01-20-2018, 11:41 AM
  #23  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by gbuff
Won't happen--not going as deep into the road as the example above.
Really? Doesn't have to go deep. As soon as water gets into the base it will destroy the flexible pavement. This is the reason crack sealing is done on roads. I'm going to look into this drainage hole method as I've never seen it done before.
Old 01-20-2018, 03:51 PM
  #24  
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del

Last edited by gbuff; 01-20-2018 at 05:18 PM.
Old 01-21-2018, 11:45 AM
  #25  
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Depends what your ground is like. Is sandy? Is it clay? While the "french drain" idea will get things moving. The perforated pipe im assuming would be a pvc type with holes in side not weeper. The weeper would be very hard to get to seat well enough that the water would actually go down it. Also id think when digging the hole out youll undermine the slab a bit. Maybe just repour? Take the opportunity to put hydronics in floor? Or like someone said get a squeegee. Really .. most /all self levelers will fail. You can etch /grind/ epoxy pin add bounding agent or whatever. But if its a thin layer itll crack up. Thicker will last cause theres meat there.... best way is new. Patches dont work. Is it a newer place? Any tarion?
Old 01-22-2018, 01:04 PM
  #26  
911 Rod
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Do you really want all that road salt in the ground under the floor from a French drain?
Old 01-24-2018, 03:27 PM
  #27  
pfitzsim
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Thanks for all of the advise. Leaning towards the French drain option. I do sweep it out every few days although to keep the water to an 'acceptable depth' would be a part time job. A simpler option may be to add garage sweeping to my sons (aged 8 & 10) chore list, or perhaps ask my wife to not park in the garage thereby reducing the issue by 50% (+/-).
Old 01-24-2018, 06:42 PM
  #28  
S98CS
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just drill holes in the slab it will go away
we are talking very little water
if it drops to the weeping tile no big deal



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