Any Rennlisters from New Zealand?
Drifting
I crashed the VW show and shine at Okahu and parked next to it.
It is actually the de reg ex OZ 78(?) SC that he picked up and got legal and running again. It was on TM earlier this year or late last I think. He had the normal CIS probs so located a 3.2 plenum and did a brain transplant with a Link or Motec or something.
Badged as a 3.0 Carrera which got me old heart racing but just a badge job.
Neat double center exhaust.
It is actually the de reg ex OZ 78(?) SC that he picked up and got legal and running again. It was on TM earlier this year or late last I think. He had the normal CIS probs so located a 3.2 plenum and did a brain transplant with a Link or Motec or something.
Badged as a 3.0 Carrera which got me old heart racing but just a badge job.
Neat double center exhaust.
Have been running SRF since March. Haven't bled since. On that note - do have 85% of a bottle of SRF from that full bleed and replace, stored in a zip lock bag, anyone used an opened and then capped and bagged bottle after any length of time? Given the the fact it's hygroscopic I'm conscious of it going "bad", I guess I need a steer on whether or not a tightly capped bottle and possibly not airtight bag is enough to prevent it. Ideally I could use the remainder for a partial bleed, but rather not add undue risk for the sake of $100.
So obviously you've got at least one taker for it if you decide otherwise...
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Macca - I'm no Walt or Matt G, but Stu described it to me this way when doing the C3 a few years ago:
A perfectly balanced car handles best. When you have an engine, driver and other things on different corners of the car, it is out of balance and will exert different weights on each tire.
On the C3, Stu lifted corners of the car higher than others, so get a more even weight distribution. On that car the LH rear corner was about 15mm higher than the other side to compensate for my butt in the seat - the car could physically be seen on an angle.
I didn't ask for the 3.2 to be corner balanced - they just did it as part of re-doing the geo after adjusting the ride height.
The C3 was obviously done, I didn't corner balance the 993 and the GT3 was done as part of sorting out the suspension set up and not killing me.
A perfectly balanced car handles best. When you have an engine, driver and other things on different corners of the car, it is out of balance and will exert different weights on each tire.
On the C3, Stu lifted corners of the car higher than others, so get a more even weight distribution. On that car the LH rear corner was about 15mm higher than the other side to compensate for my butt in the seat - the car could physically be seen on an angle.
I didn't ask for the 3.2 to be corner balanced - they just did it as part of re-doing the geo after adjusting the ride height.
The C3 was obviously done, I didn't corner balance the 993 and the GT3 was done as part of sorting out the suspension set up and not killing me.
Photo's of new ride height Dave. Not as low as the SC - but looking more purposeful and I don't have to plan the driving route to avoid speed bumps - I just laugh at them like I was in the missus' All Road.
I have been using the car for work on and off over the last 2 weeks and just loving it. The car is shiney and red gets a lot of complements - people come up to you and say I used to own one back in the UK or remember driving in one etc.
Let me know when I can buy the SC - I think I am ready for a 911/964 as a daily driver.
Also considering a 7.1 tipo - they are getting cheap enough??
I have been using the car for work on and off over the last 2 weeks and just loving it. The car is shiney and red gets a lot of complements - people come up to you and say I used to own one back in the UK or remember driving in one etc.
Let me know when I can buy the SC - I think I am ready for a 911/964 as a daily driver.
Also considering a 7.1 tipo - they are getting cheap enough??
good looking car, wondewred who's it was
Air cooled tho..!
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Hi mate. I understand what is involved. Perch height is one variable but you need thread to achieve it. Adjustable drop links are another and moving weight a third. Ill send you through the work up sheet on your GT3 so you can take a look. The numbers dont appeared to have changed before and after significantly?
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There seems to be zero consensus on what a Mezger engine is as he didnt design one engine but a bolt in cylinder platform in the early days that was used in the first 911 and then was in charge of race engine design from the 70s (credited with GT1, 962 etc).
The term "Mezger" originated after the M96 engine debacle by enthusiasts to help differentiate from the GT3/Turbo engine. The GT3 engine bottom end was part of the reference and till that time had been known as "an engine based off the GT1 design" which was actually based off the 964 bottom end which was used in the 993. So its uncertain what Mezger actually means other than "Not M96/97/A1 etc".
Curious fact.
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I recall some talk about this on the PCNZ FB page. He used LINK I think in the end to iron out some of the wrinkles but couldnt find any more power in the engine after spending alot of time and money trying to sort it out. I think I have the same T shirt! Looks well presented and I like the painted manifold, a fairly low cost modification which really livens up the black drudgery...
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Originally Posted by 996tnz
I've normally had to replace rotors due to cracking before they hit the minimum wear limit anyway (Sebros near the wear limit) so not too worried about a little extra rotor wear. Pretty sure she's RST3 up front, RSL2 out back (would prefer RSL1) so not the most aggressive compounds anyway. You can see below what I mean about having them reasonably matched over their temperature ranges:
Attachment 995001
On the Sebro front, what was the concern, other than maybe aesthetics?
Attachment 995001
On the Sebro front, what was the concern, other than maybe aesthetics?
Drifting
I'm just keeping in the back of my mind the next steps for the SC - if held long term - in terms of the ageing CIS. No hurry yet because it runs fine but chasing air leaks and running problems can absorb plenty of time and money and results can be patchy. There is a lot going on in the early injection systems with mechanical devices to adjust the running parameters.
Carbs are an option as are ITB's with an aftermarket brain. Would need to be a bolt on as you probably wouldn't want to pioneer this with random parts as in the black SC above - unless you own the workshop as Brendon does.
Carbs are an option as are ITB's with an aftermarket brain. Would need to be a bolt on as you probably wouldn't want to pioneer this with random parts as in the black SC above - unless you own the workshop as Brendon does.
RSR build
Seems early orange rebuilds are all the vogue . Here are some pictures of a Aussie mate of mine that took a year. 73 rsr 1100 kg 300 hp and apparently a real handfulhttps://rennlist.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=995107&stc=1&d=1448568034l. Nice looking car . Flared arches Dave?https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1448568034
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I looked at some numbers last night that show all in including 6-8000 road km, insurance, fuel at the track, track entry, brake rotors/pads/fluid, annual service, tyres, WOF, Rego and a small allowance for mechanical repairs and worn parts (i.e. $1500 pa) based on 10 x track days a year and pushing the car hard an early longhood/G series car would cost around $900-1000 per track day, a 993/964 approximately $1250-1400 per track day and a GT3 (dependent on CL wheels or not and size of rotors) between $2000-$2400 per track day. I have included all annual csts including road miles int these track days (i.e. I have assumed that apart form 6-8000km a year road driving, which well may be getting to and from the track if you include SITT & NITT) that the car is primarily set up for track fun and have amortized all fixed and variable costs into 10 single track days to keep it all relevant. Ive based fuel consumption on track days at 1 tank $150 for Long hood, 1.5 tank for 964 & 2 tank for GT3. I think this is generous. Tyres per car I have 2 sets. $800/2000/3000 a set of good track tyres depending on car type. For longhood and 964/993 have assumed rotors will last 2 seasons (20 track days). Pads I have 1 set a season. I have included insurance at $1000/1100/2200 a vehicle based on value guestimates. Service and replacement costs are from experience. Ive lifed out CL components into 5 years at $1500 a year. Ive included 1 full geo per car per year and included all costs relating to tyre changes, balancing and pad fluid changes etc. It was interesting exercise. The base costs mask the lower running costs of the longhoods/G series but the best generalization or take away is that a well set up and maintained aircooled 911 will be approx HALF the cost annually all in to run at the track (and put 6-8000 additional road km on). S you pay twice as much per lap for those extra 7-10s a lap...