jlanka

No - the tech form that you hand in when you go for morning tech at the track is the form that has been filled out by the approved shop you go to within 30 days. Without that you can't track the car. The morning tech inspection is just for brake lights, checking lug nuts (if not center) checking that your trunk/frunk is empty, checking that you have an approved helmet etc.

somdcroc

Every PCA Region is a bit different but PCA itself has minimum standards and require a pre-event tech inspection for an HPDE within 30 days of the event. Some regions up the requirement and require it within two weeks of an event. Regions typically have their own Tech Inspection sheets that are used for this pre-event inspection. Some regions do have their own Tech Inspection events at local shops that allow use of their lifts and the region tech inspectors and approved volunteers do the actual inspections. Some Porsche dealers also do free tech inspections for HPDEs (not just for PCA events) if you are a PCA member. Most PCA regions also require daily tech inspections at the track during an event (over and above the required pre-event inspection) while other just do a single in[section at the track for a two or three day event . These daily inspections check some basic things on the car as well as required safety gear. It always best to learn what you need to check for throughout the day after a track session to ensure you car is ready and safe. The best advice I have is check with your local region's Chief Tech Inspector if you have questions about that region's specific requirements. BTW--some regions offer Tech Sessions not just for DE participants but for folks just wanting to have an experienced person give their car a good look over and show the owner what it looks like when up on a lift. They might even demonstrate some basic maintenance tasks.

Scott
de@fsrpca.org

ExMB

The tech session is not an HPDE inspection but more of a show and tell for those that want to learn about maintaining their car and perform some work.

DE regions will require a filled out inspection form prior to an event; honor system since you, the owner, is ultimately responsible for the condition of the car even if it has a shop signature on it.
Again, some regions have it onsite (maybe at a cost) but be prepared to wait and maybe lose a session whereas some have recommended shops do it beforehand.

There is no set standard. Look at the event region's registration, website where the info will be listed.

Matt Romanowski

Some great advice here, but asking us if it's a good idea is like asking a drug dealer if the drugs are good

Just be prepared, I went from an autocross to PCA Enthusiast of the year in only 36 months! DE is addicting. As to the insurance, get it if you get some piece of mind and it makes financial sense for you. There is no right answer and everyone approaches it differently.

Most important - have fun!

bpu699

Below is the Milwaukee PCA tech form. The inspectors on site go through each of the check points and sign off...

Perhaps each region does it differently? There is no area for stamps, or for a mechanic to sign it... Just the inspector at the event....

Note the bottom, "IF YOU WOULD LIKE A PROFFESSIONAL MECHANIC to do this,...."




PCA, Aug. 12, 2016
Driver #1 (Please Print): _______________________________________________________
Emergency Contact & Phone: ____________________________________________
Driver #2 (Please Print): _______________________________________________________
Emergency Contact & Phone: ____________________________________________
Tech Inspector (Please Print): __________________________________________________
Car Make & Model: ________________________ Color: _____________ Number: _______
Item(s) Inspected:
_____ Helmet: Snell rated current or last date certificate, no cracks; chin strap in good
condition. (Snell rating should be 2010 or later and must have either an M or SA.
Helmets with on a DOT certification are not allowed.)
_____ Roll Bar & Cages: Mandatory for all open & semi-open cars without manufacturer’s
structural or deploying roll over protection; roll bars must pass the broomstick rule and
must be covered with closed cell foam padding in any place where a helmet could come
in contact with the bar.
_____ Seat Belts: Factory or better installation in both seats; must be securely mounted; belts
not frayed; equal restraints for passenger and driver. 4-point harnesses prohibited
except Schroth Quick Fit. 5-, 6- and 7-point harnesses must use seat with factory routing
holes.
_____ Structural Integrity: no loose body or interior parts; no structural rust at or near
suspension points.
_____ Doors: must be operational from inside and outside.
_____ Windshield: no cracks, condition does not impair vision.
_____ Mirrors: minimum of single mirror in good condition and securely mounted.
_____ Gas Cap: tightly closed and no leakage.
_____ Fluids: NO DRIPPING LEAKS of any fluid of any type.
_____ Fluid Lines: proper fittings and line condition; no external clamps used on pressurized oil
lines.
_____ Battery: properly secured; no apparent corrosion.
_____ Throttle Return: freely operating and proper spring(s) for mechanical throttles..
_____ Engine: proper exhaust in good condition; general condition of engine and accessories.
_____ Belts: fan and other auxiliary belts in good condition with proper tension.
_____ Brakes: Sufficient brake pads (50% minimum); rotors and pads are in good condition; no
cuts or abrasions in brake lines. There should be no visible cracks extending to the
edge of the rotor. With co-driver, pads should exceed minimum standard or bring a
replacement set of pads.
_____ Brake Fluid: Sufficient brake fluid; premium fluid recommended. Brake fluid must be
changed at least annually. * Date brake fluid was last changed: ___/___/____
_____ Brake Lights: functional and visible brake lights.
_____ Pedals: All pedals must have free return and be in good operating condition. Brake
pedal must be firm.
_____ Wheels-Overall Condition: no cracks, bends or flaws.
_____ Wheel Bolts & Lugs: all lug nuts engaged; pay special attention to after-market wheels &
Turbo Twist wheels; if using track tires, steel lug nuts should be used.
_____ Wheel Centerlocks: make sure locking devices are fully engaged.
_____ Wheel Bearings: proper free rotation; no looseness in hub.
_____ Tires: general good condition; no cracks, cuts, cords or blisters.
_____ Front Suspension: no excessive play; ball joints and tie rods secure; boots and all seals
in good condition.
_____ Rear Suspension: half shaft boots in good condition; mounting hardware in good
condition; no leakage.
_____ Exhaust System: securely fastened and in good condition.
Tech Inspector Signature:___________________________________ Date: _____________
(if you would like to have a professional mechanic perform the above listed inspection, please
consult your mechanic or visit our website www.porschepark.org for a list of options)

needmoregarage

Some great advice.

I STRONGLY suggest that you "study" the track before the event. Find some good videos of people driving the track. Print the track map and follow along. See if you can find a track map that also shows elevation changes.

Memorize the track section by section until you can drive it in your head. If you do this before the event, you'll spend less time trying to figure out if the next turn is right or left, and more time concentrating on learning the proper line, and following instructions.

Driving a track (in reality) is always different than studying via videos and maps, which don't tend to realistically relay elevation. But it's better than nothing and I wish someone had given me this advice before my first time.

As for track insurance, it's very individual. I did it because it gave peace of mind even though the deductible was 10%. It was "catastrophic" insurance so I wouldn't have to consider walking away from the total value of my car.

I am one of the addicted, and I now have annual track insurance with unlimited days. If I do at least 10 events I break even, and more than 10 events I'm ahead.

One other thought - my hands get sweaty so I wear gloves no matter the weather. Not everyone likes gloves but if you know you get sweaty hands (especially when adrenaline is flowing) you might think about showing up with gloves. You don't have to buy any for your first time - but if you have thin leather winter gloves - those would be fine.

Good luck and enjoy!

ProCoach

Just go easy and add speed slowly. It'll be really easy to go into sensory overload...

No one has a gun to your head. Don't go quicker than you can keep your eyes moving and UP.

John@Fabspeed

Couldn't have said it better myself. +1

AlBinVA

I have yet another question.

Tire pressure on the track.

I have a 991.2 C2S with 20" wheels. Since it is my daily driver, I am currently running a more comfortable pressure of 38 rear and 32 front.

I usually add/delete air pressure while the car has been sitting in the garage for a while. My first track event is 40 miles from my house which will be reached via I95 at prevailing speeds. My thought would be to adjust tire pressure to the recommended "track" pressure" on the morning of the event in my garage.

Please comment if this is the correct procedure for adjusting tire pressure and what the recommended tire pressure for the event should be.

Al

Gary R.

Being that your in Green I would simply go out for your first session with the recommended COLD tire pressures. If possible, without delay check them when you come in to park. If they are above the recommended HOT pressure bleed them down to about 1-2 PSI below the recommended HOT pressure. I do this to make up for the cool down time between the track and when you actually check them. Rinse and repeat each session but be prepared to add air at home once you are back to street only driving. Depending on the tire and others experience, you may get some input on where they actually perform best but until then go with OEM guidance..

Wild Weasel

Gonna be honest here. The first time I felt the effects of my tires pressures being too high was pretty thrilling.

Firstly, the fact that I was pushing the car hard enough that it mattered made me feel like I was doing well.

Secondly, realizing that I could feel the difference in how the car behaved and adjust my driving accordingly was a nice boost of confidence.

Jabs1542

Modest warning: Dominion Raceway has new grippy pavement (think VIR and Watkins Glen new pavement) and you do NOT want to start with too low of a pressure - the shoulders of the tires will roll (don't ask how I know this ).

As GaryR said, when you come off the track hot, and see high pressures, drop them slightly below your high pressure threshold. Otherwise you may start the next session too cold such that the sidewalls give and shoulders roll.

gbuff

All of the above re tire pressures, plus use your eyes.....after each run, when you're checking your lug nut torque with your new/borrowed torque wrench, take a look at the tire edges. If you're rolling onto the sidewalls pressure's too low. Some chalk the tire edges to help see this.

Gary

AlBinVA

and come away with more questions than answers based on comments provided. What I found was:

Nomenclature plate on door frame with tire pressures of 45 rear and 35 front (cold)

In the manual I find Part Load with tire pressures at 37 rear and 31 front with full load at 44 rear and 34 front. I also found lug nut torque value of 118#.

I assume I need to go into TPMS screen and select full load and un-check "comfort setting"?

I assume that I should use full load COLD settings (44/34) based upon driver and instructor ?

I cannot find any reference to "recommended hot tire pressure". Help!

If after cool down (between sessions), if I get a cold reading of 44/34, is that OK for the next session(s)?

Sorry for additional questions, but it appears correct tire pressures are extremely important and I want to get it right.

Jabs1542

I also track a 991, torque is 118 (remember that because it's different than older Porsches), and I usually run 33/36 (front/rear) cold with the TPMS on Comfort setting. Full load (TPMS) is for a fully loaded heavy car (4000+ pounds), thus the high 44 psi pressure. My hot pressures will climb up to 36/39 (front/rear) and if they ever get to 40+ I bring them down to the 39 hot (usually it's the rears that get high pressures).

BTW - DR is a technical track and a great place to learn that slow (patience in the corners) can be fast (carrying more momentum through the corners). I have a lot of DR videos posted on YouTube, just search for Jabs1542.