johneecatt

I'm toying with the idea of switching to spec Boxter, which means towing to the track instead of driving. And not having a trailer or tow vehicle, I'm starting from scratch....and minimal. It's mostly local(ish) tracks, and I'd like to try and find an open trailer that's as light as practical and .........I just can't see me driving around LA in a pickup. I've seen people towing with Cayennes and Cherokees...
So, what's the minimum vehicle to tow a light, open rig? And cost is a concern...

audipwr1

Cayenne

You will discard the open trailer after your first race (I did) then move to lightweight enclosed trailer

Ideally you have big truck but life is full of comprises

Join SPB - it's great fun. This is my first year racing and first year with SPB and I've had a hoot

jaundice

I tow with a BMW X5. Lightweight aluminum enclosed with spec-ish boxster. Tows at 80 all day long and comfortable and stylish when doing DD duties.

rlets

My 1st gen Tundra and steel flatbed is a minimum setup, IMhO. I towed with a supercharged 4Runner for a bit. It was faster on the hills than the v8 Tundra but carrying spare wheels inside the vehicle was just too dangerous. SUV only works with an enclosed trailer for the heavy gear.

Rich

Frank 993 C4S

You can tow an open trailer with a light race car with most SUVs. Look for a minimum 4500/5000 lb tow rating. Trailex trailers are the lightest but also the most expensive. Diesels tow best. The whole issue really boils down to how much you want to spend.

993944S2

2013 Acura MDX. Trailex with full floor. SP2 944. So far, so good.

hf1

You may want to rethink this...

http://autoweek.com/article/car-life...probably-drive

http://www.urbasm.com/2015/03/4-sexi...-men-to-drive/

Bill Verburg

Trailex is probably the lightest open trailer @~1k#+/- depending on options, Featherlight a bit heavier, Don't know ATC but they are probably about the same as Featherlight

add ~3k#+/-car + maybe some tools and spares your looking @ `4-5k# tow load

I've seen late MDX tow that, but there's not much headroom as they are rated for ~5K# or so,

I tow 4.5K+/- total Trailex+car w/ a 4Runner rated for 7.2K#, no problem

Cherokess is rated 7.2k as is Durango, Durango has a lonfger wheelbase which is a plus

you can go higher end Cayane or BMW X5 rated somewhat higher or VW Tourag w/ diesel

all of the above have the advantage of a big flat secure storage area in back, and aren't too bad to drive and park on a daily basis

If you went to a bigger truck a 1/2 ton van was the best tow vehicle we ever used to tow race boats around, tons of room for stuff in back that can be locked up.

1/2 pickups are nice because you can put gas cans in back instead of in the passenger compartment, a 1/2 can be configured fro ~7.2k to 12k#s, 3/4 or 1 tons even more

I agree w/ the sentiment that you will likely want an enclosed before too long, these can be anywhere from ~2k# for a Trailex on 5 or 6k# for a steel enclosed

The worst thing(IMO) about most trailers is dealing w/ ramps, it depends on the car but in some cases you will need 12-14' of ramps to get the car on the trailer(I need 14" minimum), a torsion bar suspension trailer w beaver tail is much lower to the ground than a leaf spring trailer, it reduces the needed ramp length a lot.

Martin S.

Understandable...and Spec Boxster is the most bang for the racing dollar spent. You have a good connection with Speed Gallery, Dan can certainly hook you up.

As background information, my nick name should me Mr. 3X, I have to do something at least 3X before I get to my comfort zone. I have had 3X aero configurations on my car, have had 3X suspensions (M030 RoW, PSS9s, and now MCS) and have had 3X+ trailers, 2 open and 2 enclosed. {Note I have only been married 2X...so apparently I am trainable}.

I first owned a Hallmark 20' enclosed for about 10 years, then a Featherlite open Model 3110 (17' 6") and a Trailex open trailer Model CT 8045, and now the owner of a ATC 20' enclosed (See pic). I'll babble on about the pros and cos of each, as I have experience it.

When Bill writes, "The worst thing (IMO) about most trailers is dealing w/ ramps..." this is the gospel truth. With the 2003 Featherlite Model 3110 open, the pull out ramps are stored to the left and right of the trailer directly under the ramps your car sits on. The ramps are manageable, but don't have a bad back. My back was compromised....I could feel it, pulling those ramps out and locking them in place. Also, the Featherlite Model 3110 ramps are short and do require auxiliary ramps for lowered cars...at least that was my experience. The trailers come with 15" wheels...you can get some decent sized rubber on these wheels. Bonus, a storage box could be bolted to the tongue. In addition, the Featherlite Model 3110 open has a detachable drivers side fender, making it possible to easily get in and out of the car. That is, if your remember to detach it before driving up the ramps. Don't ask me how I know this. The Featherlite Model 3110 (17' 6") weighs in at about 1,200 Lbs...not 100% certain on this, easily researched. The extra weight is the full aluminum deck in contrast to open on the
Trailex CT 8045.

I had the Featherlite Model 3110 for about 6 months, when a 2012 Trailex Model CT 8045 came up for sale at a decent price. newer is better right? Wrong. Initially, here is what I liked about the Trailex Model CT 8045. The trailer is super light, at about 910 Lbs. Very easy to tow and move around when empty.

Here is what sucks...the ramps...yes they are longer than the Featherlite Model 3110, but you still need auxiliary ramps. But, the ramps are stored under the deck along the centerline of the vehicle. They need to be first pulled out, then moved over to match up with the trailer deck, on the far left and right sides. This created more work that the Featherlite Model 3110 ramps. My back really didn't appreciate these ramps. The last time I used the trailer....I concluded, that's it, this sucker has got to go.

Now here is the worst part, the ramps are narrow, and not as rigid as the Featherlite Model 3110. Every time I went up the ramps on to the trailer or backed off, I had visions of dropping a wheel(s) off the ramp, a catastrophe waiting to happen...it didn't. Another sucky thing, where do you mount the storage box so it doesn't interfere with you tying down your car? I wanted it aft across from the spare tire at aft point of the trailer deck, but in this position, it was a bitch for me to hook up the snap rings on to the tie down point. Both the spare tire and the storage box seemed to always be in the way. Now for a good thing, the fenders are low so you can enter and exit your car without removing the driver side fender as is done on the Featherlite Model 3110....the trade off, you must run 14" wheels, too small IMHO. I had gotten used to 15" tires on the Featherlite Model 3110.

Once I decided to dispense with the open trailer concept, due primarily to the lack of secure storage and dealing with the loading ramps, I went on the search for an enclosed trailer, aluminum this time. The Trailex Enclosed uses pull out ramps so that wasn't going to work....so eventually I narrowed it down to the Aluminum Trailer Corporation (A.T.C) 20' aluminum trailer (ATC/Becker/Quest, all the same company). I would have preferred a 24', but didn't want to have to buy a more powerful tow vehicle. What surprised me, with all aluminum construction, the ATC weighed just shy of 3,000 Lbs, about the same weight as my Hallmark 20'. A comparable Featherlite can be lighter, I suspect because the interior consists of aluminum sheeting and the stingers. If it is ordered with a full interior, I suspect it too would be closer to 3,000 Lbs. A 24' ATC would have been close to exceeding the approximate 7,000 Lb. towing capacity of my V8 Toyota Tundra. In addition, the cost of the 24' cost was out of my budget.

With ATC, there is no showroom or display lot where you go pick out a trailer...you order it with the help of your salesman, and customize it to your needs, sight unseen. It takes a leap of faith to do this, but it has turned out well for me. The quality of every aspect of the trailer is 1st class. Once you have placed your order, you get full blueprints of your trailer and artists renditions. If anyone wants to see the docs I received, PM me with an email address and I'll copy you. They are awesome...note it's a huge file. My closest ATC office is Las Vegas; that's where I placed my order, and where I went to pick up my new trailer. My guy is Scott Rausch scott@beckercustomtrailers.com 1 (702) 802-1564 Scott is very competent, thorough and he'll take excellent care of you. Let him know I referred you.

In addition to all being all aluminum and very well constructed, the ATC has one particular feature that captured my imagination, their so called "Escape Door" (See pic below). It is 4' wide and allows me to enter and leave the car with ease.

The trailer comes with another unique feature, spread axles, that is the axles are about a foot further apart than a traditional twin axle trailer. This equates to an easier tow...they say, and I have experienced same. I also upgraded to 235/80/16 tires with the appropriate aluminum wheels and spare.

***Johneecatt..the least expensive option for you is to store your Spec Boxster at Dan's shop and have hime take it to and from the track for you. You are already one of his support customers, just continue in the tradition. This way you have no need for a trailer, a tow vehicle and providing storage for same.

RobT 394

^^^^This
The ramps are a real PITA on the Trailex. While it is a terrific trailer the ramps are too much work and the trailer sits too high off the ground. It is time for Trailex to address this issue.

Buy light enclosed and tow with SUV. Open lasted me less than a year before it was time to sell. Granted the ramps had a lot to do with that decision.

20' trailer is 2900 pounds. Car and gear another 3500. You are near the 7000 range if you really load up. Range Rover sport rated at 7600. Tows with ease. I find the biggest issue with towing can be the shocks. SUVs with good air suspension keep the tow vehicle level. Some trucks on the other hand are not as stable as one end is heavy and one is light. I have tried Suburban, F150, Dodge Ram. My SUV tops them all for stability and power.

johneecatt

No doubt the easiest!! Also mounts up to lots of bucks $$$

But arrive-and-drive certainly has an appeal........

Martin S.

Here is the most economical option. Reserve your pick up from Enterprise Commercial. On Friday before the event, Uber from Lake Balboa to the Enterprise Commercial office in Panorama City and pick up your truck, a Dodge 2500. It will tow at least 7,000 lbs: https://www.enterprisetrucks.com/con...sevehicle.html

Next, reserve a car trailer from Hertz...pick that up with your Enterprise pick up...go home, load up, and do the opposite Monday morning. Maybe spend $300 on the truck, including fuel and $100 on the trailer...$400. Do eight events a years, your out $3,200. Contrast this to the scenario below:

You can calculate more expensive options that include:
1. Purchase of a tow vehicle,
2. Insurance, etc. for the tow vehicle,
2. Purchase of a trailer and possible storage expense for same.

If you do get a trailer, a load distribution list can be pretty nice. This way you can get the trailer tongue weight to 10 to 15% of the gross weight of the trailer loaded.

I didn't follow my recommendation...I needed inside storage for my car. I was paying $250 a month for a storage unit, wanted that to come to an end. I wanted, note...didn't need, a brand new aluminum trailer.

Also note, if you are willing to drive an older truck, with Toyota, the 2007 with the bigger motors 5.5 liters are pretty cheap. My 2006 is a 4.7 liter..it gets the job done and runs as if brand new. The Toyota Tundra 4.7 motor is out of the Lexus...it literally purrs, somewhat like a Johnneecat

A used 20' Haulmark enclosed can be obtained for from $3,000 to $4,000 depending on condition. It will weigh about 3,000 Lbs...as mentioned in the above post, be prepared to tow about 6,500+ Lbs. You may want to check what monthly storage fees will be in your area....in many neighborhoods, parking a trailer on residential property is frowned upon, or in fact may be against the local zoning laws.

If you are thinking of towing an enclosed trailer with a SUV, just for peace of mind, check out the wheel base on a typical 1/2 ton pickup and compare it to whatever SUV you are thinking of. Conceptually, I can't get my arms around towing 6,500+ Lbs with a SUV. I have not seen it done at the tracks I go to in the West, but perhaps this is a workable combination?

jrgordonsenior

Rob Buchheit tows his 7-cup on a open aluminum Featherlite behind his V8 Grand Cherokee. Ask him about it if he shows up at BW.....

johneecatt

Great idea - thanks John. Rob is in Japan, but he'll be at Willow (with his rebuilt cup!)

garrett376

I tow my heavy 3000lb J-stock 996 with a Cayenne and it works great, even on long hauls from San Diego to SLC, UT with the wife and kids. I've used heavy open steel trailers and open aluminum trailers and don't notice much difference as the chassis, engine and brakes of the Cayenne are superb - far superior to a well equipped Titan truck I had at one point. While I prefer the fun, power and safety of the 958 Cayenne Turbo model, I have a friend who tows his F-class 911 with a 958 Cayenne V6 in and out of SLC, UT and has no complaints. Cayennes make great daily driver cars (trucks?!) that are more than capable tow vehicles.