ELange0322

6500 with the car ? I dont know that you are that much heavier. I would figure I'm at least 5500. This is why though I'm asking because if I could do a 15" rim with a sturdier tire, I'd be crazy not to take that step.

TXE36

Then how come trailer tires have such a poor reputation? In reading through the Airstream Trailer forums their experience is similar to ours, only when they have blowouts, it tends to do a lot of damage to the trailer. It was there I found references to using LT tires. Also, if ST tires are so good why are they speed limited so slow?

I went with P-Metric LT tires for my open trailer. Considering the tires maxed out at 90% load, I've still only loaded them to 50% of that number and I've got more confidence in Michelin than some Chinese made trailer tire. Wagon wheels didn't cost all that much and they fit the trailer fairly easily. One issue I did run into was the 1/4" increased deck height and 1/4" increased tire height (tires 1/2 in diameter larger) caused interference issues with the door and the bottom of the car. A pair of cedar boards took care of that.

The decision for enclosed trailer types is more complicated because it does appear to get the load rating in the size required to fit is much tougher in a 8000 lbs loaded trailer than a 4500 lbs loaded trailer.

I've had them on the trailer for a year and a half, they still look new. It tows nice and stable at 80 MPH and the trailer itself has very good stopping power, even in the wet.

-Mike

jrgordonsenior

Again more industry BS. I do however like the lqast paragraph regarding ST vs LT:
"With that said, some RVers have experienced seemingly unexplained failures with ST tires on appropriately set-up trailers, especially off-brand tires imported from overseas and sold in this country at bargain prices. Some of those people solve their problems by switching to comparably sized LT tires with the same or higher maximum load ratings. This is one option to keep in mind in the event you’re experiencing ongoing trouble with ST tires."...

KevinGross

Linzman, thanks for the link, great info!

Recommended supplier for tire covers, anyone? Cheers,

fhp911

I can say, as other have:

(a) replace every now and then [3-4 years seems to be what people recommend.]

(b) CHECK YOUR PRESSURES BEFORE EACH EVENT !!!

I demote my tires after they are old to become my spare tires. [but maybe this is pound wide, penny foolish]

John H

This is kind of like motor oil debates. All I can say is I've never had a trailer tire fail (I pay close attention to pressures, bearings and age) but I had three LT blowouts in less than 300 miles the one time I used them (they were brand new). Never had an ST fail on that trailer after I swapped them out.

jrgordonsenior

John that's just too weird. What were the tires?

Viperbob1

Here in Florida we change our trailer tires after 2 years (we also put about 8000 miles a year on them). Also it is CHEAP insurance to go up a load level (E vs D rating). And yes for sure check the tire pressure and set properly.

T&T Racing

From etrailer website
"Light truck tires (LT) are sometimes used in RV applications but generally not on utility trailers. Light truck tires are a type of passenger vehicle tire and as such they are not built with as thick of a sidewall as trailer tires. A thicker sidewall allows a trailer tire to handle more vertical load. I recommend going with ST trailer tires. The ST stands for special trailer.

A trailer tire can fail for several reasons. Overloading a tire can cause it to fail. You are towing a lot of weight and if the tires are not rated high enough that would be the issue. Other common problems with tires is heat build-up which is the number 1 enemy of a tire. Because trailer tires have a thicker sidewall they can build up more heat when under inflated. That is why trailer tires should always be inflated to the maximum psi as indicated on the tire."

During use, the flexing of the trailer tire releases compound lubricants that are beneficial to tire life. Less use, less releases of lubricants, short life of tire even though lots of tread remaing.

My experience indicates that premature failure can be prevented by
1. Ensure the cold tire pressure is at maximum every time the trailer is used. Under inflation means more sidewall flexing, thus more heated generated in the tire, yields tread delamination and sidewall blow outs. Limit trailer speed to maximum allowable speed rating. Depending on outdoor temperature, I could run tow vehicle 10 mph over the maximum trailer tire rating.
2. Upgrade to at least one higher trailer rating than specified by trailer manufacturer to prevent overload. Make sure to follow step 1 or overheating of the tire occurs.
3. When storing trailer for the winter, ensure the trailer tire are on concrete patio blocks to prevent contact with the ground and have tire pressure 10 psig maximum cold pressure to prevent flat spot (for locale where temperature drop below 30 F in winter.
4. Do not store race car in trailer over the winter unless you raise up the trailer so tires not in contact with storage area surface.
5. Replace trailer tires every 4 +/- years.

Spinout

I use these found at Amazon to keep my trailer tires covered when I'm not using the trailer. The relentless Carolinas summer sun deteriorates tires quickly.



The single wheel covers are also inexpensive.

I also keep my trailer on small leveling stands during the winter months, suspending the tires off the concrete. I'm not sure this makes a huge difference but it's more cheap insurance...

RickBetterley

Just ordered 5 Power King STR II E rated tires from my local dealer, who was able to get them easily from their supplier. Actually cheaper than the D-rated Goodyear Marathons. Would have happily paid more.
I will have 4 new tires on the trailer, a fresh spare, and then a less fresh extra spare just in case. Probably should have gotten that new as well.
I am religious about tire pressures but not about sun protection and winter storage. From now on I will be.
A note: been a while since I had a tire blow and it's not a huge deal when it happens in the right place and time, but would be less happy if it happened on say the NJ Thruway. I figure trailer problems are a when not an if, and prefer to do things right.
Thanks T&T Racing for the above and for everyone for their suggestions.

John H

I think they were Wranglers. Its been a long time but I know they had raised white letters. Looked kinda cool, for a while.

mark kibort

Again, i ask, Why bias ply vs radials? the radial tires seem much more durable , but that is just the appearance .
My question is the same.... what makes the trailer tire so different?

StoogeMoe

So if the tire says maximum cold pressure is 65psi, that's what you set it to? Sounds scary to me. Has anyone measured the pressure right after you're done towing? How much does it go up?

TXE36

If the spec says maximum cold pressure then it's reasonable to assume as part of that spec the nominal pressure rise once the tires warm up. The problem with hot pressure is you have no frame of reference upon which to judge.

The P-metric LT tires on my trailer are spec'ed at 50 PSI - this is where the max load is and where I set them before leaving on a trip.

-Mike