winders

It's been my experience that PFC 11 pads don't really need to be bed in. I put a new set on for a race once, heated up my tires as usual on the warm up lap, and they worked great with no traditional bed in whatsoever. What is important is to remove the transfer layer from other pads.

Wait. Does that information go against what the Great Kibortion says? Oh no......

Veloce Raptor

+1

ExMB

+1

Using PFC11s right now on AP rotors. Had the rotors on first with OEM pads (~ 500 DD miles). Swapped in the PFCs and went to a DE. After the warm up lap no issues with braking, bite or modulation.

Carlo_Carrera

I am not going to be at a track for a couple of weeks so I will try your street method if you care to explain it. You can PM me if it is a trade secret.

docwyte

They're track pads. They're going to squeal on the street no matter what you do to bed them.

If you want quiet pads for the street, you need to run street pads.

mark kibort

actually, none of my track pads have ever squeeled... even a little if you bed them correctly. if you dont.. yes, there is some squealing on the street.

well, if you dont use your brakes that much, i can see that working. however, i will say, ive doe that before.. not on a race, but bedded them in on the track, (no street) and they are junk the first two laps. cool down and then they work...If it was an emergency change before a race, i could do it, but it would be very tricky to get thorugh the first lap, depending on the track. if you did that at sears or thunderhill, it might work....... laguna, no way you would be able to scream down to turn 2 with hot brakes and not a full bed in. unitl those resins are burned off, the brakes will be like ice on ice when hot.

you are such a pile on tool!

mark kibort

on DE warm up lap, you can do that, and then start DE'ing.. but racing, that can be quite dangerous if you are expecting full bite and force without a proper bed in.. that smell you smell when you are bedding , is the binding material and its no where near the quality of the pad material. so, it cooks, gets hot and gives a sub-par surface to brake on. ... when its gone, you are good to go. generally, two laps, and its good.. (or the street break in method, which takes longer than the track. nothing like the track )

mark kibort

PM sent

winders

As someone that has run PFC pads for a long time on bikes and cars, I can honestly say you are full of sh$t and don't know what you are talking about. Binding material?? What are you smoking??

The only time I have any issues at all is when you changing to PFC pads on rotors that had been used another brand of pad. The transfer layer was the problem. Once that was gone, everything was just fine. But, if you are just throwing a new set of PFC pads in, you are good to go after getting proper heat into the brakes.

Veloce Raptor

+1

Carrera51

I bedded a brand new set in a practice session at a PCA race (GTC3 car). Brought them up gradually each lap and by the end they were fine. Had to scrub off transfer layer left by the mystery pads that were on the car, then let the PFs lay down there own. Session two they were on the money.

points

LMFAO....this thread has been Kiborted.

The other day I had an irate client going off on his landscaper so I said, "Son, you've been Kiborted." Took awhile to explain but in the end another one drove off with the term "Kiborted" to be used in his future dealings.

mark kibort

really? winders... the horible smell as the binding materials (yes, the resins that hold the stuff together ) burn off and basically cure in the pad.
transfer layer? dude! really, didnt you pay attention in Brake Class? even olsen agreed. the pad material is removed just as new is laid down.. its a continuous process UNLESS you are not getting the brakes to temp which is your case on a Bike or expecialy your car, because you dont need brakes on that go kart you call a race car. the KE you go through with your race car running a 1:40 at sears is NOTHING like heavier cars running the same top speed, with smaller rotors and pads and slowing 1000lbs more weight!
you have the luxury most of us cant afford.

This is very dangerous advice. ive seen guys use this "ADVICE" and end up in the sand traps at laguna on lap one. you MUST bed the brakes. just because your go Kart can do this, doesnt mean someguy in a 997 turbo can do it . PLEASE dont listen to these morons... you need to bed the brakes, even with PFC11s.. they dont work on lap one with no bed in........ they will overheat quicly and cause serous and dangerous fade unless you are really good at heat managment and have done that before...... Period

you are advocating someone to take PFCs because you have, and run them out of the box on the track hard on lap one! I will video my next bed in process to show this is NOT possible. they smoke, smell and burn off the resins in the first 5-10 slow downs and have incredible fade issues, vs fully bedded in.
yes, if you are skilled that 10 to 15 bed in slow downs can be done on lap one, IF you the time and speed to do it. But, anyone that is just taking your advice blindly, can be in for a big surprise .

Please, dont advize bad, unrealistic braking bed in techniques. you are going to kill someone.

mark kibort

Seriously, are you a adult? Think about what an adult does or how an adult thinks...... is this adult behavior.. you are proud of yourself?

3Series

So what are you all doing to bed in the PFC brakes pads on the street? 10 runs of 80mph to 40mph? Do this at night and get the rotors glowing...lol