John H

I have a 1980 SC 3.0 currently in my PCA D stock race car. The engine number is 6402902. Motor was built by Dan Jacobs. Asking $10,500 with no core and I will ship CONUS. Selling because I found a good ROW motor and would like to move to E.

Engine runs strong and is currently in the car. I set the Mid Ohio PCA Club Racing track record with it the last time I had the car out in September 2015. It has been well maintained with oil changes after every two events. It is due for a valve adjustment.

What's not included: headers and distributor. I have heat exchangers including a muffler and another stock distributor I will include. Basically it is plug and play set up.

PM or email at ii6svvh@yahoo.com

Astroman

Yeah this motor pulls hard. John's Mid Ohio D class record is 1:39.6.

Gary R.

Save yourself some money, slap an E on the car as-is and go.

John H

If I don't swap, I'll just keep running D. I have alot of work to do to catch Rob Hale and Kris Taylor. Those two frustrate the hell out of me LOL

Here's E at the Glen last summer. I ran a 2:14.100 in D. The motor is strong. Tayor ran a 2:13.105

Gary R.

John - If you just want to move to E I honestly don't think it's worth it if you are running top E times now. You do know you can't just swap motors, but need to change your calipers and rotors, add a Carerra brake proportion valve, and re-gear your transmission too? Basically you need to make it an 84-86 Carerra.. OR just throw a bump-steer kit and anything else you can do to become Prepared E and go with the car as she sits. You can run at 2702lb with that car as is, 75 lb lighter than a Carerra. I did the build, would not do it again. I've run against that car, trust me, all you need is an E decal.

Last time I ran in D at the Glen was a 2:13.776 when Kris broke the record, bet your car has a 2:12 in it... or better.

John H

Gary,
I am planning to run as a euro SC. I'll check again but I thought the only changes were motor related and one gear set change. If I were going to a 3.2, I think that is where the other changes you mention come into play. I don't think the euro SC's had different brakes. I will re-investigate. I probably confused myself along the way because I have been mulling over the different routes into E since I bought the car.

Gary R.

Sorry, I assumed you were going 3.2 John, I apparently have reading comprehension problem, sorry.... Euro requires an engine and gear change only, just be sure it is a real euro motor as it has quite a few differences from US. Dizzy, Fuel dizzy, P&C's, etc. In that case if you can move to a Euro for little expenditure it can't hurt if the euro motor is fresh... have you dyno'd your motor recently?

paradisenb

John, you could do all the allows changes and move your existing car to E Prepared and win races. Only time you 'may' not be at the pointy end will come against top talent in top cars.

Your car should be able to take Bob's with your driving skills. Bob's buddy, Keith's, car is not DJ quality and he is right on his heels now.

GT3DE

3.0 Euro is the way to go. I had D car and did conversion last year to Euro spec 3.0. Not terribly hard or expensive.
Seemed fast enough at WGI this year. lol
http://rennpoints.com/classrecords/?...ss=E&session=0

Gary R.

Fixed that for you Evan...

deutschkar

John H

Off the market. Thanks to all of those expressing interest.

jamesjedi

If you passed on the ROW engine, any chance could pm me with contact info? I am looking to change my engine. Thanks.