911993

I'm looking for some advice from those who have been there and done it. I'm looking to do some DE, get some prof. instruction, and do a little racing. I've decided to not track the existing 993 or 997.1 TT. My original plan was to do some track work with the 993 but I would want a cage to be as safe as possible, and these cars are becoming too valuable to start hacking on it.

I'm not concerned with being at the top of any class and winning at this point. I am mostly concerned with safety, and then having some fun.

I noticed this 997 Koni which can be bought for less than $50K. Seems like a great deal as it would be impossible to start with a 997S and add that level of safety and weight reduction for anywhere near that. What do you guys think about these cars? And what is it worth with 10 hours on a 3.8 engine and 40 hours on the tranny? Appreciate the feedback.


BODY
2006 997/911 Grand AM Koni Challenge.
MIG welded Cage with additional driver’s side door bar protection and NASCAR style door bars. 1.75” DOM tubing. The cage is a very safe and strong design.
Motec ADL dash and data system
Momo steering wheel
Schroth HANS 6 point safety belts. Expires in 2017
External electrical kill switch
Drivers side window net, also right side head restraint
Recaro HANS drivers side seat with head halo for added safety
Light weight headlight covers
Factory 997 GT3 rear wing
Front tow hook
Hood Pins front and rear
Light weight battery
Quick release steering wheel
Roll bar mounted steering wheel holder
Lexan windows
All sound dampening material removed
Aluminum hood
997 front bumper
Composite 997 rear bumper
Carbon fiber composite roof
Carbon fiber composite doors

SUSPENSION
5 position adjustable front sway bar
3 position adjustable rear sway bar
997 GT3 adjustable front and rear lower “A” arms
ARP wheel studs for quick lug nut removal and tire changes
Enkei mono block wheels 12”/18” rear and 9”/18” front
Eibach springs
JRZ 3 way shocks and struts with disconnects

DRIVE TRAIN
Factory ABS with the YAW sensor disconnected
997 3.8 liter engine with less than 10 hours.
Solid transmission mount for improved shifting during cornering
Transmission has 40 hours
Six speed H pattern transmission

GTgears

Look at one of the BGB cars at twice the price. I suspect the car you are looking at is pretty tired and shagged. At 40 hours the gearbox is 15 minutes from needing replacement. I suspect other parts on the car need similar service.

RickBetterley

Good idea to move to a track car.
My 993 with full welded cage is for sale if you are interested; pic is on the left.

jrgordonsenior

Hey if this is the car I think it is its got your diff in it and less than 40 hours on that tranny....

OP: If this car is in So Cal then PM me. I have intimate knowledge of the car....

GTgears

Kris's?
My comments were not based on actual knowledge of this exact vehicle but a general fear of a ten year old racecar so cheap. There are couple nice ones around. There are also a few real dogs. If Kris's that car is worth considering.

911993

PM sent, thanks!

jrgordonsenior

Yep....

Captain Slow

I've owned BGB's 997.1 ex-Koni Car for the past year.
Yes, it's somewhat beaten up from hard racing - off the bat, I had to replace some suspension bits.

No firsthand knowledge of yours, but from the buildsheet, IMHO you'd be getting a great deal, even if some of the parts need a refresh. You'd spend a LOT more to build your own for sure.

jrgordonsenior

This particular car is so much more than a x-Koni 997. It has a rebuilt 3.8 not the 3.6 they ran in GA. It's also about 200 lbs. lighter. If you read above you'll see all the CF parts and Lexan. It also has the Bosch $10k ABS system....

Captain Slow

I was subconsciously trying to ignore some of what I was reading on that list. Comes with a Bosch Motorsport ABS? Again, I think it's a killer deal. wish I was in the market..

Carrera51

Have you done any DE's yet, or are you just going to be starting out this year?

Frank 993 C4S

If you're ultimately looking at getting into racing, first figure out which organization you want to run with. Then familiarize yourself with the classes and make a decision which cars are most competitive in those classes. For example, there are huge differences in running cost between some of the PCA Club Racing Stock and GT classes. Only when you have made that decision, go buy a competitive car and work yourself through the DE system with some good professional coaching.

I would't start with a highly modified car that you need to sell later in order to start racing because it doesn't fit into the group you want to be racing with competitively.

If you want to stick with DE, forget about everything I posted above and just have fun! BTW - there is nothing wrong with starting out with your 993 or 997TT if you are new to this.

dan212

These cars can be great. I have a 3.6 997. Incredibly fast.. But your list is incomplete and you need pix. Find out who built it. Every quality builder has a signature cage design. This doesn't say enough..

• PIX
• Full list - some of what is listed is silly SOP stuff - and there is just too much not said.
• Builder - some of these cars are great. Some are crap.
• Try to get race history.
• Buy from a race shop who will stand behind it. (even if not the original builder)

jrgordonsenior

Dan the car ran 4 years in GS class, the last 2 supported by BGB. Literally every wear item in a GA car is replaced often. The motor is fresh by my motor builder and I dyno'd the car in the 345 WHP range with a stock ECU.

Besides, someone bought it today and I hope it was the OP....

dan212

Like I said in my last two points.... You know the car and its history.. Sounds like a good deal.