Rick's Cayman S track car build
#32
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Speaking of cooling - I have never used a cool suit; the technology (ice) is a bit off-putting, but I guess its the best there is in my price range (and maybe any price range). I 'only' do DE but I wear a 3 layer suit.
Should I go for the cool suit installation? Frank says yes.
And, how about helmet blower?
Should I go for the cool suit installation? Frank says yes.
And, how about helmet blower?
#33
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Speaking of cooling - I have never used a cool suit; the technology (ice) is a bit off-putting, but I guess its the best there is in my price range (and maybe any price range). I 'only' do DE but I wear a 3 layer suit.
Should I go for the cool suit installation? Frank says yes.
And, how about helmet blower?
Should I go for the cool suit installation? Frank says yes.
And, how about helmet blower?
#34
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Cool Suit: You haven't used one before, but you aren't getting younger either. Its a minor thing to plumb the car for a cool suit while building and the basic unit not remotely expensive if you just have an ON/OFF switch. Wear it on those insane hot summer days. For 20 minute DE sessions? Nah...
But open track days where you are spending a lot more time driving you might like it. I have one, but honestly while I sometimes load up the chest with ice, I never wind up putting on the shirt and plugging in for a DE - just for races. But its nice to make part of your build.
The helmet blower you can put off. Add it another day if you are of a mind. You are already spending enough.
But open track days where you are spending a lot more time driving you might like it. I have one, but honestly while I sometimes load up the chest with ice, I never wind up putting on the shirt and plugging in for a DE - just for races. But its nice to make part of your build.
The helmet blower you can put off. Add it another day if you are of a mind. You are already spending enough.
Speaking of cooling - I have never used a cool suit; the technology (ice) is a bit off-putting, but I guess its the best there is in my price range (and maybe any price range). I 'only' do DE but I wear a 3 layer suit.
Should I go for the cool suit installation? Frank says yes.
And, how about helmet blower?
Should I go for the cool suit installation? Frank says yes.
And, how about helmet blower?
#35
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Add the 3rd radiator. Its normally part of a good prepared build. Much easier to do during the build than later as a retrofit - or after you realized the hard way that you should have.
#36
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#39
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I'm looking forward to this build thread Rick.
Ask Spencer to put in the Porsche Motorsports AOS because those downhill left handers will trigger a smoke bomb!
Ask Spencer to put in the Porsche Motorsports AOS because those downhill left handers will trigger a smoke bomb!
#40
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the Gen 2 DFI motor is safe from this.... saves him some $1400 for a plastic oil catch can (Porsche Motorsports ). Plus no need for deep sump, x-51 baffle, and accusump. Saves another $2500-3000 ...
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Which is why we started with a Gen 2 car; the difference in price between a 1 and a 2 was far less than expected (10-12k) and after you take the required adds out of that, it made sense to own the newer car.
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Decided yesterday on belts (Schroth Profii Hans in red), seats (OMP HTE XL in black; sliders drivers side, fixed passengers), paint cage body color (cost), removable steering wheel (Momo with silver release).
You can tell I'm being counted on for the important decisions!
Car is going in for it's cage today.
#44
Good luck with the build. As one of the first Cayman S race car builds (late 08) we discovered and solved a lot of the track/race related issues.
Listen to the folks telling you to ditch the StopTechs and install the GT3 master cylinder. The stock MC will barely support the stock caliper volumes on track and the GT3 MC is a cheap and easy install (especially while the car is apart).
When you decide to go with bigger brakes call Charlie at Wrightwood racing - he has done a lot or research/development on Cayman brakes.
We run the early 997 Cup uprights with 996 Cup calipers and AP racing 350mm rotors in the front and stock calipers with AP racing rotors in the rear. Brake pressure is provided by a 997 cup dual master / adjustable bias setup (with revised diameters) and a Teves motorsport ABS controller.
Let me know if we can help in any way.
Cheers,
Listen to the folks telling you to ditch the StopTechs and install the GT3 master cylinder. The stock MC will barely support the stock caliper volumes on track and the GT3 MC is a cheap and easy install (especially while the car is apart).
When you decide to go with bigger brakes call Charlie at Wrightwood racing - he has done a lot or research/development on Cayman brakes.
We run the early 997 Cup uprights with 996 Cup calipers and AP racing 350mm rotors in the front and stock calipers with AP racing rotors in the rear. Brake pressure is provided by a 997 cup dual master / adjustable bias setup (with revised diameters) and a Teves motorsport ABS controller.
Let me know if we can help in any way.
Cheers,
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Good luck with the build. As one of the first Cayman S race car builds (late 08) we discovered and solved a lot of the track/race related issues.
Listen to the folks telling you to ditch the StopTechs and install the GT3 master cylinder. The stock MC will barely support the stock caliper volumes on track and the GT3 MC is a cheap and easy install (especially while the car is apart).
When you decide to go with bigger brakes call Charlie at Wrightwood racing - he has done a lot or research/development on Cayman brakes.
We run the early 997 Cup uprights with 996 Cup calipers and AP racing 350mm rotors in the front and stock calipers with AP racing rotors in the rear. Brake pressure is provided by a 997 cup dual master / adjustable bias setup (with revised diameters) and a Teves motorsport ABS controller.
Let me know if we can help in any way.
Cheers,
Listen to the folks telling you to ditch the StopTechs and install the GT3 master cylinder. The stock MC will barely support the stock caliper volumes on track and the GT3 MC is a cheap and easy install (especially while the car is apart).
When you decide to go with bigger brakes call Charlie at Wrightwood racing - he has done a lot or research/development on Cayman brakes.
We run the early 997 Cup uprights with 996 Cup calipers and AP racing 350mm rotors in the front and stock calipers with AP racing rotors in the rear. Brake pressure is provided by a 997 cup dual master / adjustable bias setup (with revised diameters) and a Teves motorsport ABS controller.
Let me know if we can help in any way.
Cheers,
Original plan was to stay with stock brakes (with track pads and SRF, of course) for budget reasons. But the StopTechs became available at a good price so mission creep set in and I added them.
I'll review the m cylinder.
Just a reminder - this is an advanced DE car and won't be racing. If later it goes racing it might need to revert to stock brakes or it could go to an ultimate braking setup.
I do appreciate the advice; the 'not unlimited funds' is constraining.