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Old 06-12-2013, 08:20 PM
  #31
mehoff
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Originally Posted by jakermc View Post
My car is similar and I know what it cost to build, which is why I'd be willing to buy yours for $40K. I just don't see how it can be done. A quick run down of parts, assuming careful shopping:

Donor: $10K (if you can find a messed up car with a good chassis)
Moton Club Sports $5.4K
CCW Wheels $2.7K
Used 997 tranny: $2.5
Rebuilt race motor: $10K
Lexan: $1K
Wing and uprights: $1K
Other bodywork: $1K
Cage, paint, other suspension bits, custom ABS etc.: ???

So we are up in the neighborhood of $40K before we even begin to talk about the extensive labor involved in a full strip, cage build, re-installation, and set-up.

I also like your build better than mine, the standard 3.6L engine is a much better choice for hp/wt ratio classes compared to the X51 engine. I just hope for your sake that you really have a firm contract and/or substandard parts are not being used, would hate for this to end with a big surprise for you when completed. It just seems to fall into the 'too good to be true' category.

So yes, I am serious, if you can deliver this car as stated for $40K I will immediately buy it from you. I'm just not willing to take the risk up front, but a completed car, count me in!

I definitely want to know more about this ABS system as well, the stock system is the Achilles heal of my build and the Motorsport version is something like $10K. How does this mod work and what does Dan charge for it?
I ran the numbers before getting into this as well and they do work. The biggest issues with your numbers are the donors are less (specifically targeting salvage cars with blown motors, which craters value), there is about $3-4k of wholesale parts that get harvested from the car, the tranny cost is the difference between a 997 and a 996, the Motons are fresh rebuilds (from a car I know from a shop I know) and the wheels are one piece OZ's at $1,600 a set.

That is neither here nor there though; you can either believe the cost or not. Those that take delivery of a car will believe the numbers. For now, I'll just transition this to a true build thread, which is what I think everybody wants anyway! Updates with more pictures soon.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:52 PM
  #32
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Originally Posted by mehoff View Post
Target off-track weight is sub 2,500lbs

Running at a 9.0:1 power to weight, this car WILL be faster than 996 Cups, but will run in the GT/GTP groups.
That's a great build but a 996 cup power/weight is much better, about 7:0. And the 996 motorsport dif will make a big difference too in acceleration and stability.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:54 PM
  #33
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Originally Posted by analogmike View Post
That's a great build but a 996 cup power/weight is much better, about 7:0. And the 996 motorsport dif will make a big difference too in acceleration and stability.
Mike I think it's more like 8.0 (2850 /355whp) but your point is well taken. This car should put out around 325whp so at 2700/325 he could run as low as 8:3 to 1 which is early 6-cup territory. Jack's probably around 160 so might even be able to run a little lower. Unfortunately for him, the class he's choosing to run in has a minimum multiplier of 9....

As for diffs, I wouldn't consider running any highly modified 996/997 without a good one. Hitting the brakes hard from 150 will cure you of the notion you don't need one in a hurry...
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:31 PM
  #34
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior View Post
As for diffs, I wouldn't consider running any highly modified 996/997 without a good one. Hitting the brakes hard from 150 will cure you of the notion you don't need one in a hurry...
Amen to that!
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:03 PM
  #35
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Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior View Post
As for diffs, I wouldn't consider running any highly modified 996/997 without a good one. Hitting the brakes hard from 150 will cure you of the notion you don't need one in a hurry...
Although this question will demonstrate my noobness, can you explain what you mean here? What does the diff affect in terms of high speed braking?
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:07 PM
  #36
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Originally Posted by mcipseric View Post
What oil solutions are you using? multiple scavenger pumps? Accusump?
Originally Posted by jrgordonsenior View Post
.
What are you guys doing for an oiling solution on your new engines?

Last edited by mcipseric; 06-14-2013 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:58 PM
  #37
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Sneak peak of the livery:
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mehoff View Post
Sneak peak of the livery:
Slime green from Ghostbusters?....
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:12 PM
  #39
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Originally Posted by mcipseric View Post
What are you guys doing for an oiling solution on your new engines?
Eric I've destroyed 2 M96 motors but neither was the result of oil starvation. I think the issue is less relevant in your X51 motor and it's additional scavenge pump. I've data logged my oil pressure around ACS, Laguna, and pretty much every west coast track and never seen a significant pressure drop. Grooved and drilled crank for better circulation, X-51 pans or baffles, and top quality oil heavy oil (15/50). My issues have been miss-shifts from stupid cup cables that I didn't adjust with a new trans (duh), and serious overheating at the Nationals at Miller in 2010. Both avoidable but influenced by the close racing at hand....
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:19 PM
  #40
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Originally Posted by TrickyPorpoise View Post
Although this question will demonstrate my noobness, can you explain what you mean here? What does the diff affect in terms of high speed braking?
A good LSD with a high lock up ratio of 60 or more (cups are 40 acel, 60 decel), stabilizes the rear when you jump all over the brakes. The diff integrates both axels under decal and the end result is like throwing an anchor out the back. You can brake in a straight line or turn towards your apex and the car will stay firmly planted with the drag applied equally to both rear wheels. Once you've driven the difference you'll wonder why you waited so long to get one. Oh and the lockup under acel is beneficial too allowing you to get to full power much more quickly without spinning tires. I believe most all Grand Am Porsche 996/997's variants use Guards 50/80 diff....
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:28 PM
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Good, now JR will have someone to play with!
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:24 PM
  #42
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I find the pricing difficult to believe... I don't know how you build at this level when you consider donor car, a new or super low mileage motor, Spec suspension , all the other materials that makes a competitive and quality spec build let alone shop include labor costs. Wish you a good luck an success on your build
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:59 AM
  #43
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Originally Posted by Blitz128 View Post
I find the pricing difficult to believe...
Guess it's time I chimed in here on Speed Gallery's builds. Dan has built maybe 40 variants of these cars including cups over the past 5 years I've known him. He works with a crew of 3 other qualified mechanics and they've all been there for awhile. Dan is a very smart businessman and buys his donor's well priced. He has his own motor builder and his brother is an electrical genius and great with trannies and diffs. He's built his own body molds keeping those cost reasonable and he shares space with a high end body-paint shop. Most importantly Dan's not greedy. He keeps his customer base happy which is demonstrated by his repeat customers. So yes he can build a competitive 996 race car with fresh motor/trans for under $40k. Certain item he excludes such as a race seat and data, but his cars are well setup and ready to race. Dan built my car 5 years ago next month. It was originally one of the first 996 Specs then lightened and converted to run in the GT classes and yes, I'm still a customer. He's just completing a stunning 3.8 Cayman PDK that will be for sale shortly.....
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:39 PM
  #44
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watching this one
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:39 PM
  #45
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Went and inspected the progress last week; really impressed with the build thus far.

Few quick pic updates:

Last edited by mehoff; 01-09-2014 at 01:54 PM.
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