onefastviking

Kind of expensive but I like the design in principle.

http://www.cartek.biz/tech-info.html


And NO MG, do not go out and buy one yet. I'm still looking at a few different options that we have available.

KaiB

OHHHH!

I like the idea of an on/off switch reachable when strapped in.

Don't ask why..

ubercooper

Perhaps in addition to an existing mechanical switch

.02, but I dont trust having an electrically controlled kill switch for an electrical system...

If your concern is having the cutoff switch in reach, then just run longer wires and mount in closer

NHRA, ALMS, and Grand Am, all use mechanical switches

APKhaos

There must be a local US equivalent, no?
I had an electric cutoff for years but it finally failed and the manufacturer has gone out of business.

onefastviking

Yep, many good reasons to have one inside AND outside.
I'm actually in the process of considering 3 different ways to do this. All are good options but I'm trying to find which I like the most and that is most cost effective. Ask me which I decided on and why in a couple weeks.

longhorn911

My car came with one of these already installed by the previous owner. It works great - I've no problems with it at all and it is very convenient.

I do find that the red LED in the center of the interior on/off switch isn't super bright and I've accidently left it on overnight in the paddock and ran my battery down. I'm going to wire in a second bright LED into my dash panel so I can tell when it's on even in the bright sunlight.

winders

I have my lone kill switch pull cable mounted on the cage where the driver's side wind-wing would be. I can reach it there as can the corner workers. It's an elegant and effective solution that keeps things simple.

Scott

onefastviking

I am also looking at an option in addition to the mechanical switch.

Many race cars now use an electrical cutoff switch, I think, I prefer the isolator over the standard electrical cutoff switch. But not totally sold on the Isolator yet.

Many race organizations also now make you have a kill switch in car and another exterior mounted.

winders

I agree. An electronically controlled electrical cutoff switch makes little sense to me. A mechanical switch may not be as cool.....

Scott

longhorn911

My islator setup has an on/off/kill switch inside the car on the dash and another kill switch mounted outside on the windshield cowling just to the left of the windshield wiper. The system also allows for more kill switches to be added in other locations as well...

onefastviking

Who makes yours ? Any pictures ?
I'm still fighting doing one of these vs with my desire to stay on the KISS principle method.

longhorn911

Mine is the Cartek unit in your link above. I just went out the garage and snapped a few photos for you. You can see the on/off/kill switch on my dash panel and the larger blue kill button on the windshield cowling. My car is on a trailer with tire rack over the hood so I could barely wedge my iphone into the engine compartment, but did get a photo of the unit mounted next to the battery. Hope these photos help...

Dubai944

Several racers in Dubai tried using them a few years back when they were stocked by Gulf Sports and there was a high percentage of failures including the one on my car. Mine just never worked and some people had them work for a while then stop. Cartek claimed we had wired them incorrectly, but I think the solid state circuits were just a bit too flaky.

Have used an Armtech isolator ever since and has worked perfectly. Big chunky electromechanical box that seems indestructible and makes a satisfying clunk when you press the button
http://www.armtech.co.uk/page6.html

onefastviking

Failure rates were / are a concern, thank you for that info. I'm starting to lean back to my simple idea for this issue.

J richard

Precision chassis put a electric disconnect in my boxster. One relay (looks like an old ford starter relay) one toggle switch on the dash and one on the hood. Either cuts the power, works just like the cup for a fraction of the cost...