Toyo R888 vs Hoosier R6: grip vs life on a high hp car
08-18-2011, 01:54 PM
#16
Not sure on compound or construction, but the tires are different. I put alot of work into set-up using R888 on my 944 spec. I learned the R888 needed a couple pounds less pressure and about 1/2 deg less camber. Even so by 12-14 HC they were pretty much done for. I once shaved them to 3/32 and they worked really good for 2 HC. HC #1 I ran the fastest lap at 2009 Nationals of any car in my 30 car class of the entire event. Then HC3 I lead most of the race. Finished 4th 2.5 seconds out of first. Not really sure if the tires faded after 30 minues a bit or I faded. Anyway after that they never stuck very well to be honest. I think I ran them to 10 HC, but thankfuly our class went back to RA-1s and 24-26 HC useable life.
Real user history is always the best type of info. Thanks for sharing.
08-18-2011, 04:17 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
If you are interested I have a pair of new 345/18 Kumho V710's I'll sell for $400
Are you actually racing or just DEing?
From what you guys have said (generally speaking):
1. the 888s are solid, but glorified street tires which dont last terribly long
2. The car/driver should be tuned with whichever tires it will be racing on
In that case, it looks like the winner for me is going to be the R6. Any advice about pressures or settings? Car should be ~#2600 as it sits now and weight should be ~49/51 front-rear
Thanks again for the input guys. Like Fritz said, hearing 1st hand experience is really helpful in making these decisions
08-18-2011, 05:25 PM
#18
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If you are interested I have a pair of new 345/18 Kumho V710's I'll sell for $400 (+shipping). Then you could get a new pair of front Kumhos and have a set of tires that will be faster and last longer than used R6's and R888's. I have run my share of used tires from multiple sources and it is always a crapshoot, some have been good some have been junk. Once you factor in mount/balance and shipping along with the reduced life of the used tire I think it's a bit of a false economy..
Gimme Gimme Gimme!
PM Sent
08-18-2011, 06:29 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Very tempting but I'm looking to buy 2 sets just in case I flatspot one, and 2 sets of those will set me back mucho $$.. Thanks anyway tho
Just a few DEs to get the hang of the car and dial it in, then its off to the races.
From what you guys have said (generally speaking):
1. the 888s are solid, but glorified street tires which dont last terribly long
2. The car/driver should be tuned with whichever tires it will be racing on
In that case, it looks like the winner for me is going to be the R6. Any advice about pressures or settings? Car should be ~#2600 as it sits now and weight should be ~49/51 front-rear
Thanks again for the input guys. Like Fritz said, hearing 1st hand experience is really helpful in making these decisions
Just a few DEs to get the hang of the car and dial it in, then its off to the races.
From what you guys have said (generally speaking):
1. the 888s are solid, but glorified street tires which dont last terribly long
2. The car/driver should be tuned with whichever tires it will be racing on
In that case, it looks like the winner for me is going to be the R6. Any advice about pressures or settings? Car should be ~#2600 as it sits now and weight should be ~49/51 front-rear
Thanks again for the input guys. Like Fritz said, hearing 1st hand experience is really helpful in making these decisions
08-18-2011, 07:58 PM
#20
How are you guys getting 10 heat cycles out of R6s??? I've gotten more out of A6s and they are substantially softer.
For speed and relative longevity I'd get Hoosiers, plus they have more sizes. For more budget oriented run - slightly less grip (couple of seconds worth) but tons of life get the Nittos. I can run the crap out of NT01s and simple can't kill them!
For speed and relative longevity I'd get Hoosiers, plus they have more sizes. For more budget oriented run - slightly less grip (couple of seconds worth) but tons of life get the Nittos. I can run the crap out of NT01s and simple can't kill them!
08-18-2011, 09:33 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
phil,
After 2 years of track testing these are our specs for Time Trial and Racing
-- its really the hot number that is important as soon as you come off the track.
And, each car will be different
NT01 pressures 235-40-17 / 275-40-17 2500# '78 911SC:
30/32 cold
35/37 hot
R6:
25/27 cold
30/33 hot
After 2 years of track testing these are our specs for Time Trial and Racing
-- its really the hot number that is important as soon as you come off the track.
And, each car will be different
NT01 pressures 235-40-17 / 275-40-17 2500# '78 911SC:
30/32 cold
35/37 hot
R6:
25/27 cold
30/33 hot
10 is about right, maybe less. Around 8 HC they are off pace, by 10-12 they are usually pretty dead. This is coming from using stickers to qualify, not heat cycling and letting them sit.
08-18-2011, 09:49 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
btw, what car is it? Not a 911 with that weight distribution.
08-18-2011, 09:54 PM
#23
SG - that is what I run as well. I try for 32-33 hot on my Hoosiers and they work like a charm.
I guess I'm starting to get a little disappointed in the R6s. My A6s are pretty damn decent at 12-13 heat cycles (this is only my second set from new) and I'm able to get some pretty impressive times with them at VIR and RA. Probably wouldn't last as long at CMP due to the horrible surface.
I've always thought the point of R6s is slightly less speed for significantly more life, but it sounds like you're giving up speed and not getting any more life either.
I guess I'm starting to get a little disappointed in the R6s. My A6s are pretty damn decent at 12-13 heat cycles (this is only my second set from new) and I'm able to get some pretty impressive times with them at VIR and RA. Probably wouldn't last as long at CMP due to the horrible surface.
I've always thought the point of R6s is slightly less speed for significantly more life, but it sounds like you're giving up speed and not getting any more life either.
08-19-2011, 02:32 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
08-19-2011, 02:51 PM
#25
The Penguin King
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How are you guys getting 10 heat cycles out of R6s??? I've gotten more out of A6s and they are substantially softer.
For speed and relative longevity I'd get Hoosiers, plus they have more sizes. For more budget oriented run - slightly less grip (couple of seconds worth) but tons of life get the Nittos. I can run the crap out of NT01s and simple can't kill them!
For speed and relative longevity I'd get Hoosiers, plus they have more sizes. For more budget oriented run - slightly less grip (couple of seconds worth) but tons of life get the Nittos. I can run the crap out of NT01s and simple can't kill them!
A driver's assessment of the relative life of one tire vs another is probably not too bad. But expressed in absolutes, for example if I tell you (as I did) that R888's go to crap in 15HC's, it may not mean that much to you. Maybe you find they drop off after 10, or maybe 20...
08-20-2011, 03:40 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
go with the r888s until you get the car dialed in. no need in burning through $1500 in tires getting yourself up to speed. that last 1second or two due to a race condition and the tires (As or R6s) will be a no brainer to tune around. the car will be a little pushy with the R888s, but that will go away and be good with the R or A6s. Hot pressure for the As should be around 30 psi. for the Rs, more like 33 to 36. ( I dont have a lot of tme on the Rs, just the As over the past few years)
have fun
have fun
08-20-2011, 10:48 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Mark, the tires are used with 2-3 hc on them for $145 per so 2 sets will only be $1200. The r6 and the 888s were the same price so I put an request in yesterday for the r6s. Hopefully they will have enough in stock
08-20-2011, 11:32 AM
#29
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go with the r888s until you get the car dialed in. no need in burning through $1500 in tires getting yourself up to speed. that last 1second or two due to a race condition and the tires (As or R6s) will be a no brainer to tune around. the car will be a little pushy with the R888s, but that will go away and be good with the R or A6s. Hot pressure for the As should be around 30 psi. for the Rs, more like 33 to 36. ( I dont have a lot of tme on the Rs, just the As over the past few years)
have fun
have fun
For that matter he might as well go with NT-01's
