Misc Trailer Qs (maintenance related)
08-08-2011, 08:28 PM
#1
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Misc Trailer Qs (maintenance related)
Well since I had posted a thread on bleeding my surge brakes, may I ask you trailer veterans some general-care Qs for your trailers:
1. How long can one expect trailer tires to last? I'm in SoCal so low annual rain, low humidity, and tires have those vinyl tire covers on them. I see no cracks on the sidewalls but they are at least 5 years old that I know of so...
2. How often do you bleed your brakes? Mine are surge brakes if that makes a difference.
3. Wheel bearings repacked ...intervals?
4. Anything else I missed? (mine is a Trailex open so I don't worry about rust ...unless suspension bits??).
Thanks, guys!
Edward
1. How long can one expect trailer tires to last? I'm in SoCal so low annual rain, low humidity, and tires have those vinyl tire covers on them. I see no cracks on the sidewalls but they are at least 5 years old that I know of so...
2. How often do you bleed your brakes? Mine are surge brakes if that makes a difference.
3. Wheel bearings repacked ...intervals?
4. Anything else I missed? (mine is a Trailex open so I don't worry about rust ...unless suspension bits??).
Thanks, guys!
Edward
08-08-2011, 09:47 PM
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I plan to replace the tires at 5 years (current trailer is only 2 years to far).
Electric brakes so no bleeding.
Wheel bearings repacked annually.
Brake shoes replaced annually.
Brake battery tested annually and replaced every 2 years (stored inside during winter)
Marc
Electric brakes so no bleeding.
Wheel bearings repacked annually.
Brake shoes replaced annually.
Brake battery tested annually and replaced every 2 years (stored inside during winter)
Marc
08-09-2011, 01:06 AM
#4
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Trailex uses traditional leaf spring suspension.
Even if the trailer has grease nipples on the dust caps bearing buddies do not grease the inner bearing. Still better to repack in the traditional manner. Another problem is that people pump way too much grease into the hub blowing out the seal at the back contaminating the brake shoes and drum.
Replace tires if > 5 yo. Decent quality radials will last. Bias won't.
Dexter Axle Maintenance Schedule: http://www.primotrailersales.com/Mai...edule_2-08.pdf
Even if the trailer has grease nipples on the dust caps bearing buddies do not grease the inner bearing. Still better to repack in the traditional manner. Another problem is that people pump way too much grease into the hub blowing out the seal at the back contaminating the brake shoes and drum.
Replace tires if > 5 yo. Decent quality radials will last. Bias won't.
Dexter Axle Maintenance Schedule: http://www.primotrailersales.com/Mai...edule_2-08.pdf
08-09-2011, 02:07 AM
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Ok, gotcha on the tires ...gotta def do that then. That and repack the wheel bearings. I trust this is a straight-forward DIY task?
I'll check the brake linings, but replace annually?? Thanks gents ...appreciate it!!
Edward
I'll check the brake linings, but replace annually?? Thanks gents ...appreciate it!!
Edward
08-09-2011, 06:49 AM
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I recently had two three year old Carlisle tires blow less than 60 miles apart. It was on a gooseneck equipment trailer with my tractor on it, but the learning applies to the race trailer as well. Five hours waitng for roadside service (where I replaced all four tires) gives you time to ponder.
The warranty on these tires is only two years. Carlisle did pay to ship them to their facility for "inspection" but they told me my tires had "impact" damage and they couldn't offer any relief. Bear in mind the tires were on different sides of different axles.
So, no more Carlisle's for me. I understand the sun exposure is the damage for a trailer tire, and we'll never get all the mileage wear out of them (unless we drive daily with them), but I don't think you can trust your trailer tires for five years, at least not the Carlisle's.
I'll be switching to a rather more expensive Goodyear (American made) RV tire with a G load rating and an up front five year warranty when I change out the tires I currently have. I stopped buying Goodyear Marathon's because they are being made in China.
Back to topic: my maintenance does include wheel bearing repacking and the first time I do this I change to Timken bearings and cups (removing the Chinese bearings). If you're repacking annually you can inspect the magnets/shoes/drums, and replace them when they begin to wear. One observation: you can buy all new backing plates with shoes and hardware installed more cheaply than shoes alone if you catch sales at online sellers.
Hope this helps, and, of course, your mileage may vary.
The warranty on these tires is only two years. Carlisle did pay to ship them to their facility for "inspection" but they told me my tires had "impact" damage and they couldn't offer any relief. Bear in mind the tires were on different sides of different axles.
So, no more Carlisle's for me. I understand the sun exposure is the damage for a trailer tire, and we'll never get all the mileage wear out of them (unless we drive daily with them), but I don't think you can trust your trailer tires for five years, at least not the Carlisle's.
I'll be switching to a rather more expensive Goodyear (American made) RV tire with a G load rating and an up front five year warranty when I change out the tires I currently have. I stopped buying Goodyear Marathon's because they are being made in China.
Back to topic: my maintenance does include wheel bearing repacking and the first time I do this I change to Timken bearings and cups (removing the Chinese bearings). If you're repacking annually you can inspect the magnets/shoes/drums, and replace them when they begin to wear. One observation: you can buy all new backing plates with shoes and hardware installed more cheaply than shoes alone if you catch sales at online sellers.
Hope this helps, and, of course, your mileage may vary.
08-09-2011, 08:01 AM
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I recently had two three year old Carlisle tires blow less than 60 miles apart. It was on a gooseneck equipment trailer with my tractor on it, but the learning applies to the race trailer as well. Five hours waitng for roadside service (where I replaced all four tires) gives you time to ponder.
The warranty on these tires is only two years. Carlisle did pay to ship them to their facility for "inspection" but they told me my tires had "impact" damage and they couldn't offer any relief. Bear in mind the tires were on different sides of different axles.
So, no more Carlisle's for me. I understand the sun exposure is the damage for a trailer tire, and we'll never get all the mileage wear out of them (unless we drive daily with them), but I don't think you can trust your trailer tires for five years, at least not the Carlisle's.
I'll be switching to a rather more expensive Goodyear (American made) RV tire with a G load rating and an up front five year warranty when I change out the tires I currently have. I stopped buying Goodyear Marathon's because they are being made in China.
Back to topic: my maintenance does include wheel bearing repacking and the first time I do this I change to Timken bearings and cups (removing the Chinese bearings). If you're repacking annually you can inspect the magnets/shoes/drums, and replace them when they begin to wear. One observation: you can buy all new backing plates with shoes and hardware installed more cheaply than shoes alone if you catch sales at online sellers.
Hope this helps, and, of course, your mileage may vary.
The warranty on these tires is only two years. Carlisle did pay to ship them to their facility for "inspection" but they told me my tires had "impact" damage and they couldn't offer any relief. Bear in mind the tires were on different sides of different axles.
So, no more Carlisle's for me. I understand the sun exposure is the damage for a trailer tire, and we'll never get all the mileage wear out of them (unless we drive daily with them), but I don't think you can trust your trailer tires for five years, at least not the Carlisle's.
I'll be switching to a rather more expensive Goodyear (American made) RV tire with a G load rating and an up front five year warranty when I change out the tires I currently have. I stopped buying Goodyear Marathon's because they are being made in China.
Back to topic: my maintenance does include wheel bearing repacking and the first time I do this I change to Timken bearings and cups (removing the Chinese bearings). If you're repacking annually you can inspect the magnets/shoes/drums, and replace them when they begin to wear. One observation: you can buy all new backing plates with shoes and hardware installed more cheaply than shoes alone if you catch sales at online sellers.
Hope this helps, and, of course, your mileage may vary.
If you're going through a set of shoes annually you're towing an awful lot, using your trailer to stop everything or both.
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08-09-2011, 10:23 AM
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I'm interested in this response. I've always wondered why the general reliability of trailer tires and bearings is akin to automotive reliability in the 1930s! I assume it's the heavy axle loads and high rotation rates of smaller wheels?
08-09-2011, 11:00 AM
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I considered LT tires (vs ST) for my big steel trailer (construction and farm) after I started hauling stuff from the city during the house build. I don't know.
Some will say stay away from LTs as the sidewalls are not constructed to handle the lateral loads dual and triple axle trailers produce; this makes sense.
Others will say that ST tires generally suffer from a general lack of quality (yep) and that in 16" sizes one is better off with LTs.
After hauling the car 6.5 hours each way in above 100 degree temps, I am installing the very best load range "E" tires I can find. I think this will serve me well. YMMV
Some will say stay away from LTs as the sidewalls are not constructed to handle the lateral loads dual and triple axle trailers produce; this makes sense.
Others will say that ST tires generally suffer from a general lack of quality (yep) and that in 16" sizes one is better off with LTs.
After hauling the car 6.5 hours each way in above 100 degree temps, I am installing the very best load range "E" tires I can find. I think this will serve me well. YMMV
08-09-2011, 11:17 AM
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We do that with our horse trailers though I think they're 235/85/16 E loads. Additional benefit is they're interchangable with our CC dually rims/tires giving us extra spare tires. Haven't tried them on a car hauler as I need to be as low as possible to load/unload....
08-09-2011, 12:36 PM
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I considered LT tires (vs ST) for my big steel trailer (construction and farm) after I started hauling stuff from the city during the house build. I don't know.
Some will say stay away from LTs as the sidewalls are not constructed to handle the lateral loads dual and triple axle trailers produce; this makes sense.
Others will say that ST tires generally suffer from a general lack of quality (yep) and that in 16" sizes one is better off with LTs.
After hauling the car 6.5 hours each way in above 100 degree temps, I am installing the very best load range "E" tires I can find. I think this will serve me well. YMMV
Some will say stay away from LTs as the sidewalls are not constructed to handle the lateral loads dual and triple axle trailers produce; this makes sense.
Others will say that ST tires generally suffer from a general lack of quality (yep) and that in 16" sizes one is better off with LTs.
After hauling the car 6.5 hours each way in above 100 degree temps, I am installing the very best load range "E" tires I can find. I think this will serve me well. YMMV
I have sold a lot of trailer mounted equipment to many different public agencies and they will usually specify a E rated tire in their bid docs.
08-10-2011, 03:00 AM
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