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#3271
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Not only look where yoiu want the car to go (far ahead) but also constantly scan. Never let your vision fixate.
Don't be afraid to trail brake a modern 911! They like it!
Be patient with throttle in the corner, so you only have to go to it ONCE, and can fully commit.
Have fun!
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-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
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"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
-Peter Krause
www.peterkrause.net
www.gofasternow.com
"Combining the Art and Science of Driving Fast!"
Specializing in Professional, Private Driver Performance Evaluation and Optimization
Consultation Available Remotely and at VIRginia International Raceway
#3272
I'm new to Porsche and rear engine cars with a 2019 911T 7MT. I've driven it on track twice. My home track is Oregon Raceway Park. A highly undulating track with no long straightaway. What would you all say are the three most important tips to drive this car fast around this (or any track) especially given my current lack of experience driving rear engine cars on track. PS - I will be changing from OEM size MPS4S tires to 265/35-19 and 315/30-19 Nanking AR-1 tires next time out.
Thanks
Thanks
You don't indicate whether you have more track experience with front-engine cars, so it is hard to judge your overall track experience.
That said, here are some overall suggestions, in no particular order. Sorry, more than 3:
Don't worry about modifying equipment quite yet, unless it is for safety gear.
Understand your car. It is turbocharged, so it makes power and torque differently than (for example) a GT3. You also have a manual transmission (yay!). So....consider being in one gear higher than you think, particularly on a very undulating track. Your car will appreciate it, and you will be rewarded with a more settled, compliant, and easy to drive car.
Not only look where you want the car to go (far ahead) but also constantly scan. Never let your vision fixate.
Make sure you are breathing. Slow steady breaths over the entire course of each lap assure more O2 for your brain & much more relaxed shoulders nd neck muscles.
Don't be afraid to trail brake a modern 911! They like it!
Be patient with throttle in the corner, so you only have to go to it ONCE, and can fully commit.
Have fun!
That said, here are some overall suggestions, in no particular order. Sorry, more than 3:
Don't worry about modifying equipment quite yet, unless it is for safety gear.
Understand your car. It is turbocharged, so it makes power and torque differently than (for example) a GT3. You also have a manual transmission (yay!). So....consider being in one gear higher than you think, particularly on a very undulating track. Your car will appreciate it, and you will be rewarded with a more settled, compliant, and easy to drive car.
Not only look where you want the car to go (far ahead) but also constantly scan. Never let your vision fixate.
Make sure you are breathing. Slow steady breaths over the entire course of each lap assure more O2 for your brain & much more relaxed shoulders nd neck muscles.
Don't be afraid to trail brake a modern 911! They like it!
Be patient with throttle in the corner, so you only have to go to it ONCE, and can fully commit.
Have fun!
On top of constantly looking ahead and around, focusing on smooth inputs, and remembering slow-in, and fast-out ultimately will make you a faster (and better and safer) driver. Enjoy!
The following 2 users liked this post by HelpMeHelpU:
ProCoach (07-11-2022),
Veloce Raptor (07-11-2022)
#3273
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Though these two guys have forgotten more about driving on track than I will ever know, drive with groups that offer instruction (or obtain coaching on your own, though it's more expensive) and don't be itching to ditch the coach/instructor. Keep him/her in the car longer than you think is really necessary. You will become a better driver as a result.
On top of constantly looking ahead and around, focusing on smooth inputs, and remembering slow-in, and fast-out ultimately will make you a faster (and better and safer) driver. Enjoy!
On top of constantly looking ahead and around, focusing on smooth inputs, and remembering slow-in, and fast-out ultimately will make you a faster (and better and safer) driver. Enjoy!
Very valid points! Always, always, always seek out people who can help you improve your craft.
#3274
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the input. I have about a dozen track days of experience to date with front engine cars. I have yet to have a good coach with me in the car. I've been using a Vatalyst which I know isn't a substitute for a good coach. Any ideas on how to go about finding one for ORP in Central Oregon? I'll check with my local PCA club.
#3275
Rennlist Member
Can someone elaborate on "slow in and fast out" especially as it pertains to tracking a 911.
#3276
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think looking for a coach specific to a particular track is not a good idea. This will only help you at that track. Look for a coach (and he or she might have to travel to you) who can help your DRIVING, with benefits on any track.
Slow in fast out means focus more on corner exit speed than entry speed. Slow down a bit more than you think entering a corner in order to get the chassis optimally set up for a solid, fast, committed exit.
Slow in fast out means focus more on corner exit speed than entry speed. Slow down a bit more than you think entering a corner in order to get the chassis optimally set up for a solid, fast, committed exit.
#3277
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Thanks for the input. I have about a dozen track days of experience to date with front engine cars. I have yet to have a good coach with me in the car. I've been using a Vatalyst which I know isn't a substitute for a good coach. Any ideas on how to go about finding one for ORP in Central Oregon? I'll check with my local PCA club.
I would reach out to Ross Bentley at Speed Secrets. If he can't do it, he can recommend someone local to you. There are some pretty good folks in the PacNW area.
Slow in/fast out means not overdriving the entry of the corner in search of more speed. A lot of drivers, looking for more speed overdrive the entry, thinking that's going to be "fast in/fast out," but it's almost always fast in/slow out, which makes the subsequent straight slower, too.
Often, the most common way people do this is to overslow by finishing braking too early, then ADDING throttle when they are still ADDING steering, which takes weight off the nose and is counterproductive. Doing both adds understeer and inhibits the ability to FINISH getting to wide open throttle, because the car is not pointed in the right direction, yet...
Your new platform is BETTER than most in braking efficiency and stability, so use that to your advantage and extend the end of braking well past turn-in.
You may not be trying to "trail-brake" or influence the increase in slip angle of the rear, but you can extend your slowing longer and keep weight on the nose of the car, quickening the response and shortening the time it takes to make the direction change.
Have fun!
Last edited by ProCoach; 07-11-2022 at 01:19 PM.
#3278
Hi folks,
Super new DE participant in the green group with my local PCA group running out of CTMP.
I have a 986 Boxster S running on Koni Special Active shocks. For those of you who are not aware, this is a street-level shock meant to provide some level (not much) of performance on spirited drives but not the track.
While the shocks are very smooth, I am not sure if it may be hindering my confidence on the track as it is pretty soft for me and I can feel the chassis shuffle back and forth based on small inputs from the steering wheel which I suspect is a rookie error. I am running what I think is a street-level tire (Federal Evoluzione ST-1) on the factory staggered 17" wheels. 225 up front an 255 rear.
I had the opportunity to ride along with a top-level instructor in a GT4 and the car felt very planted to the ground which is what made me think if I needed (or should???) reconsider my setup as it was a night and day difference. Given how little I've driven it on the street, I would consider dedicating the car more for DE days 75% of the time, and the remaining 25% towards street driving.
Any inputs/comments/suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Super new DE participant in the green group with my local PCA group running out of CTMP.
I have a 986 Boxster S running on Koni Special Active shocks. For those of you who are not aware, this is a street-level shock meant to provide some level (not much) of performance on spirited drives but not the track.
While the shocks are very smooth, I am not sure if it may be hindering my confidence on the track as it is pretty soft for me and I can feel the chassis shuffle back and forth based on small inputs from the steering wheel which I suspect is a rookie error. I am running what I think is a street-level tire (Federal Evoluzione ST-1) on the factory staggered 17" wheels. 225 up front an 255 rear.
I had the opportunity to ride along with a top-level instructor in a GT4 and the car felt very planted to the ground which is what made me think if I needed (or should???) reconsider my setup as it was a night and day difference. Given how little I've driven it on the street, I would consider dedicating the car more for DE days 75% of the time, and the remaining 25% towards street driving.
Any inputs/comments/suggestions? Thanks in advance.
#3279
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I would say continue to get seat time in the car as-is. Good instructors will help you gain confidence in your skills, independent of chasing car modifications.
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#3280
Rennlist Member
It also makes sense that in a high powered car to sacrifice some entry speed for good exit velocity especially if there is a decent length straightaway to follow.
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Veloce Raptor (07-12-2022)
#3281
Rennlist Member
#3282
Rennlist Member
Add the Advanced Coach under Audio options in your Catalyst for more info.
I would reach out to Ross Bentley at Speed Secrets. If he can't do it, he can recommend someone local to you. There are some pretty good folks in the PacNW area.
Slow in/fast out means not overdriving the entry of the corner in search of more speed. A lot of drivers, looking for more speed overdrive the entry, thinking that's going to be "fast in/fast out," but it's almost always fast in/slow out, which makes the subsequent straight slower, too.
Often, the most common way people do this is to overslow by finishing braking too early, then ADDING throttle when they are still ADDING steering, which takes weight off the nose and is counterproductive. Doing both adds understeer and inhibits the ability to FINISH getting to wide open throttle, because the car is not pointed in the right direction, yet...
Your new platform is BETTER than most in braking efficiency and stability, so use that to your advantage and extend the end of braking well past turn-in.
You may not be trying to "trail-brake" or influence the increase in slip angle of the rear, but you can extend your slowing longer and keep weight on the nose of the car, quickening the response and shortening the time it takes to make the direction change.
Have fun!
I would reach out to Ross Bentley at Speed Secrets. If he can't do it, he can recommend someone local to you. There are some pretty good folks in the PacNW area.
Slow in/fast out means not overdriving the entry of the corner in search of more speed. A lot of drivers, looking for more speed overdrive the entry, thinking that's going to be "fast in/fast out," but it's almost always fast in/slow out, which makes the subsequent straight slower, too.
Often, the most common way people do this is to overslow by finishing braking too early, then ADDING throttle when they are still ADDING steering, which takes weight off the nose and is counterproductive. Doing both adds understeer and inhibits the ability to FINISH getting to wide open throttle, because the car is not pointed in the right direction, yet...
Your new platform is BETTER than most in braking efficiency and stability, so use that to your advantage and extend the end of braking well past turn-in.
You may not be trying to "trail-brake" or influence the increase in slip angle of the rear, but you can extend your slowing longer and keep weight on the nose of the car, quickening the response and shortening the time it takes to make the direction change.
Have fun!
#3283
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#3284
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I have read two Speed Secrets books by Ross - lots of usable info How would I go about reaching out to him.
Thanks
Thanks
#3285
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PM me if you need more. He and I will be running a program at GridLife NJMP the weekend after next.
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HelpMeHelpU (07-13-2022)