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Anatomy Of A Race Car Fire 2 Weekends Ago...

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Old 04-21-2011, 11:36 PM
  #61  
Greg Smith
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
Well how many know that 45mph change in velocity is 50G's!
Old 04-22-2011, 02:24 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by 67King
Okay, so this thread has me wondering. I recently had a cage put in, and have stripped the car, essentially setting it up as if it were an SP3 car (I'm an embarassingly green DE guy). So how do those of you with more fully prepped cars have your door handles set up? The doors are gutted (no window motors, wiring, etc.). I did, however, re-use the factory handle, which is mostly plastic. I imagine that if I'm in a fire hot enough to melt the handle, I'll be seriously ^&%*ed up anyway, does anyone think about something like that?
The door handle on the 944 Turbo is a pretty big lump of plastic. Keep in mind the fire rating on the driver suit and the suppression of the fire system is measured in seconds, barely a minute or two. The plastics in the car will "out gas" when exposed to direct flame, but otherwise, will take an eternity to heat and deform compared to the split seconds the driver has available to eject from the cabin.
Old 04-22-2011, 08:46 AM
  #63  
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If you're small enough you can bail out the window. When my car was on fire I had the net down, seat back and was out the window in about 3 seconds. It took me two tries as my hans caught on the opening, I ducked and made it the second time.

This is where practice by exiting the car with Hans and helmet is necessary. I was used to ducking (shrugging my shoulders to bring the Hans close the back of the helmet) during exit.

This the handle on my 951 which is now painted red.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:48 AM
  #64  
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OOOOOOPS, wrong photo.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:16 AM
  #65  
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Things like the HANS collar catching on something inside the cabin or fumbling for a door handle have to be planned out and removed from the equation -- these sorts of impediments are amplified and compounded if the car is not sitting conveniently on all four wheels. I'd suggest having the HANS quick release, the window net on elastic straps that will pull out of the way even if upside down, the harnesses, coolshirt lines and so on, all need to pull back out of the way, the steering wheel on a quick release hub, a mechanism for locking down the brakes, etc. It's quite a long list of things to happen in unison, any of which can make the driver captive for critical seconds.
Old 04-22-2011, 12:50 PM
  #66  
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Hans disconnect - One more thing to reach for, try shedding your Hans before trying to bail from the car (especially with a winged seat).

Removable steering wheel - I have one but one more thing to do.

Elastic on window net - bad idea, what if lodges in the wrong place creating an addtional impediment. A hinged net rod like those used in endurance racing is a good idea though.

Mechanism for locking down the brakes - you're joking right.

I was able to get out of my car within 3 seconds of stopping the car, I went throught the window without even thinking about it (did not want to burn). You should get in and out of your car the same way every time, following the same procedure, with Hans to familiarize yourself with the mecahanisms or controls. That is your best bet for a safe exit (it's also great driver change practice).
Old 04-22-2011, 01:02 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by disasterman
Hans disconnect - One more thing to reach for, try shedding your Hans before trying to bail from the car (especially with a winged seat).

Removable steering wheel - I have one but one more thing to do.

Elastic on window net - bad idea, what if lodges in the wrong place creating an addtional impediment. A hinged net rod like those used in endurance racing is a good idea though.

Mechanism for locking down the brakes - you're joking right.

I was able to get out of my car within 3 seconds of stopping the car, I went throught the window without even thinking about it (did not want to burn). You should get in and out of your car the same way every time, following the same procedure, with Hans to familiarize yourself with the mecahanisms or controls. That is your best bet for a safe exit (it's also great driver change practice).
I take it you've not read this thread or the description by Tage of the events surrounding the fire in his car.
Old 04-25-2011, 10:01 AM
  #68  
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I have read the thread and his posts on the NASA site and stand by my comments. Good luck with the brake locker mechanism thingy.
Old 04-25-2011, 12:29 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by disasterman
I have read the thread and his posts on the NASA site and stand by my comments. Good luck with the brake locker mechanism thingy.
You're right, the "brake locker mechanism thingy" is just a crazy idea I made up ...



http://www.google.com/search?q=hydra...ine+brake+lock
Old 04-25-2011, 12:38 PM
  #70  
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Just because it exists does not make it a good idea. One more mechanism, one more step for what circumstance? How would that have helped for the original incident or any other incident? Hit the brake locker, then bail?
Old 04-25-2011, 01:21 PM
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It's easy to Monday morning quarterback, but my **** is staying planted in the car until it stops moving. To me (and every pro race car in every series I've seen) using line locks in an emergency situation is not a good idea.
Old 04-25-2011, 01:42 PM
  #72  
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I've taken at least two useful pieces from this thread, and I thank everyone for that.
1. Keep the back window intact, I don't even think I'm going to put vent holes in it
2. I bought a lot more nomex last week; socks, tee shirts and balaclavas. More importantly; I'm going to wear it all, always.
Old 04-25-2011, 08:21 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by gums
I've taken at least two useful pieces from this thread, and I thank everyone for that.
1. Keep the back window intact, I don't even think I'm going to put vent holes in it
2. I bought a lot more nomex last week; socks, tee shirts and balaclavas. More importantly; I'm going to wear it all, always.
As valuable as Nomex is, Carbon X is many times more fire resistant. Somewhere there's articles describing their test results...
Old 04-25-2011, 11:31 PM
  #74  
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Not sure about CX being more fire resistent than nomex. I thought the reason for carbonX was that it wicked moisture away from the body better and reduced the steam burns from your own sweat. Is that what you mean by fire resistence realy you mean reduction in fire injury? Only pita with carbonX is it is black and really hot in the paddock when you have your suit down around your waist.
Old 04-25-2011, 11:45 PM
  #75  
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i dunno but im glad i just bought some carbonX socks and balaclava before my last race. I'll have to look into some undergarmets though as ive never run them w/ my suit.


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