Wiring my trailer - any tips on armored cable?
#1
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I'm wiring my featherlite 24' - fairly simple with a circuit each for receptacles, flourescent/halogen lights, and AC. I want to use the small 1" blue plastic boxes for flush mounting, but they are deeper than my ribs, so I got the white metal boxes that are a 1" surface mount meant for conduit outside the wall. I'd also like to use the armored cable to prevent chafing as it goes through holes in the aluminum, but it seems to be a challenge to fit it all in. Has anyone used this before?
Thanks!
David
Thanks!
David
#2
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The armoroed cable has a lot bigger OD than something like a 14/2 non-metallic. If you grommet the holes there is no problem using the sheathed cable. Make sure you use stranded cable and mechanical fasteners as the vibrations are not as kind to the solid core and crimp connections. The shalow boxes are designed for panelling, they work are are very tight.
#3
Mr. Excitement
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MC/lite is not hard to deal with. Same dia as the hole you would need to drill for romex. Spend 20 seconds and read up on proper cutting and finishing of sheath ends and redeye usage.
#4
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Are the shallow boxes less than 1"? The one I tried from Home Depot stuck out past the stud 1/8" or so.
Where would you look up info on finishining the ends of the armored cable? I was told just to bend it, and then snip it w/ dykes. Also, this may be a dumb question, but what are redeyes?
Thanks!
Where would you look up info on finishining the ends of the armored cable? I was told just to bend it, and then snip it w/ dykes. Also, this may be a dumb question, but what are redeyes?
Thanks!
#5
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red heads.
insulating bushings that protect the conductors fron the burs left on armored cable once cut.
just push it onto the end of the cable, wrap the "bonding strip" around it, if there, and insert completed assembly into an approved connector.
insulating bushings that protect the conductors fron the burs left on armored cable once cut.
just push it onto the end of the cable, wrap the "bonding strip" around it, if there, and insert completed assembly into an approved connector.
#6
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There is another type of wire that is little known to most. It is called Tray Cable, and has a very hard plastic outer jacket wrapped around THHN wiring, which is a very durable insulation. It will take a lot of abuse and is tough enough to go through smooth holes in metal without grommets. Much better than romex.
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
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tray cable is pretty tough stuff, if you can readily find it, and probably does cost a bit more.
six of one, half dozen of the other, your choice.
the electrons won't know the difference.
six of one, half dozen of the other, your choice.
the electrons won't know the difference.
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#8
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I think I'm going to go with romex and gromet and silicone it in wherever it passes through a hole. Any recommendations on a/c units? I looking between either the 15,000 carrier or duotherm. I'm planning to insulate it and camp in it.
#9
Mr. Excitement
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Don' let the romex touch or rub on any edges. Trailers flex and vibrate far more than cars mile for mile. Any rub point will at some point wear. silicone the gromets after the wire is pulled to keep them and the wire in place.
all the roof top ac units are too expensive for the build quaility. Reinforce the area of the roof it is mounted to as they tend to make the thinner ones flex and crack the ribs.
all the roof top ac units are too expensive for the build quaility. Reinforce the area of the roof it is mounted to as they tend to make the thinner ones flex and crack the ribs.