How-to make a front splitter
#17
Drifting
#18
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chicagoland
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Mine is just like Jacks, probably even shorter made out of 1/8 aluminum, it was more to protect the bumper than aero. I just took a randam orbital sander to it just to give it a brushed look and left it alone. Call it my lawn mower blade :-)
#20
Race Car
There are diminishing returns beyond going 5" out, an aero expert once told me.
Mine is attached to the underside of my bumper where I put in recessed nuts. Then aircraft cable supports connect up to holes hidden just under the bumper trim.
Mine is attached to the underside of my bumper where I put in recessed nuts. Then aircraft cable supports connect up to holes hidden just under the bumper trim.
#21
Race Car
I went with the 1/8" door skin (plywood), and epoxy /mat. thru bolted to the bumper.
epoxy is much stronger that polyester resin (fiberglass)...
I'd would have liked to go bigger, but didn't want to remove it for the trailer loading.
epoxy is much stronger that polyester resin (fiberglass)...
I'd would have liked to go bigger, but didn't want to remove it for the trailer loading.
#25
Rennlist Member
Thanks. It was very easy to make (even for me). It's easier to pencil the outline with the bumper off the car. Then you need a jigsaw and some sandpaper.
I painted it with the same red paint I use to paint my bumper (Rustoleum enamel "Safety Red" which is damn close to Guards Red). When it's painted, you can't tell that it's wood unless you look really really close.
Regarding putting a coat of fiberglass resin on it for some strength, remember the splitter needs to be considerably weaker than the bumper... so that it destroys itself ($7) rather than the lower lip of the bumper ($450) when it rips off. Luckily for me, this worked as designed during Mid Ohio enduro qualifying in May.
Remember PCA stock guys, the splitter can only extend beyond the front of the car by 1". In the case of my bumper, the lower lip is reccessed a bit from the actual front (upper portion) of the bumper.
And also, 1/4" plywood is NOT heavy!!! LOL!!!
I painted it with the same red paint I use to paint my bumper (Rustoleum enamel "Safety Red" which is damn close to Guards Red). When it's painted, you can't tell that it's wood unless you look really really close.
Regarding putting a coat of fiberglass resin on it for some strength, remember the splitter needs to be considerably weaker than the bumper... so that it destroys itself ($7) rather than the lower lip of the bumper ($450) when it rips off. Luckily for me, this worked as designed during Mid Ohio enduro qualifying in May.
Remember PCA stock guys, the splitter can only extend beyond the front of the car by 1". In the case of my bumper, the lower lip is reccessed a bit from the actual front (upper portion) of the bumper.
And also, 1/4" plywood is NOT heavy!!! LOL!!!
#27
Rennlist Member
1/4" plywood. Supported by 4 longacer splitter supports. Not cheap, but nice pieces.
I have had several on my 911 and 944 come off. Either from downforce or off track untill I added the splitter supports. Since then, none.
Ed
I have had several on my 911 and 944 come off. Either from downforce or off track untill I added the splitter supports. Since then, none.
Ed
#28
Rennlist Member
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I used one of your splitters laying on the track to complete a pass on Jamie Frauenberg in the 2007 NASA Nationals!
#30
Nordschleife Master
Just stopped at my friends speed shop to pick up a hood louver. There is an industrial plastics company next door, so I stopped in to look around. All I can say is that I'm sold on alumalite and alumacor, that stuff looks perfect for a splitter, undertray, or diffuser. I think I may even make my dash out of the stuff!