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RA1 Tread Depth

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Old 05-09-2010, 09:39 AM
  #16  
m3bs
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Originally Posted by mdrums
I shave my RA1's to 5/32 for DE...they are perfect
Ditto. At that depth I usually ran out of rubber about the same time as the tire ran out of grip due to heat cycles. Your mileage may vary, of course.
Old 05-09-2010, 09:41 AM
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Veloce Raptor
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
15/128s allows them to break-in faster.
LOL do you work for the Federal Reserve?









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Old 05-09-2010, 10:09 AM
  #18  
RonCT
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You are too kind Gary We do have fun on the track together and if you think I'm 'really fast', then you're 'super fast'.

I guess it depends on the car and where you are on the learning curve. A heavy car like the 997 might feel different than a stripped out racer on full-depth RA1s. Also, as a 1st dedicated DE tire I do think an RA1 at full depth would probably be just fine. By the time you are exploring the limits, you probably have worn the tread blocks down to that magic 5/32.
Old 05-09-2010, 03:50 PM
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For my spec miata, I also shaved mine to 5/32. Here is a photo of what a virgin 5/32 shave looks like. It leaves about 1/32 depth of outer block "tread" (I checked it with my tread depth gauge). But I went through that layer in one DE weekend and then they were down to about 4/32. I did 5/32 because (a) I thought it would provide a little help if it rained and (b) I'm cheap and want the tires to last a long time. Now, if I were racing, I would shave to at least 4/32 to start with. 3/32 would be better.
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Old 05-09-2010, 10:54 PM
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ritzblitz
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The RA1s will replace my R6s.

Im thinking about just leaving them full depth so I can drive to and from the track on them and not worry about rain...
Old 05-10-2010, 09:29 AM
  #21  
Larry Herman
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Originally Posted by ritzblitz
The RA1s will replace my R6s.

Im thinking about just leaving them full depth so I can drive to and from the track on them and not worry about rain...
What happens when you wear them down to racing depth then?
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:05 AM
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There will be snow on the ground by then..
Old 05-10-2010, 10:18 AM
  #23  
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Ahh, good point.
Old 05-10-2010, 10:23 AM
  #24  
mglobe
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
What happens when you wear them down to racing depth then?
You buy a trailer & tow vehicle. It's all part of the 10-step process.

Of course you could pull a tire trailer behind your track car if you want to go with the 11 step process. Ask me how I know...
Old 05-10-2010, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary R.
There will be snow on the ground by then..
LMFAO at you primadonna dorks in the snow belt.









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Old 05-10-2010, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
LMFAO at you primadonna dorks in the snow belt.
It's Prantzing Prissy Metrosexual New England Hair Gel'd Primadonna's if you don't mind..
Old 05-10-2010, 10:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gary R.
It's Prantzing Prissy Metrosexual New England Hair Gel'd Primadonna's if you don't mind..
..

Last edited by Veloce Raptor; 08-05-2010 at 09:14 PM.
Old 05-10-2010, 10:38 AM
  #28  
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What's he doing, checking out her rings?
Old 05-10-2010, 11:27 AM
  #29  
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I shave to 4/32 for standard use. I have run them at full tread in deep water and in the dry. They are not fast full tread. The are fine a 4/32. Over the years I have found full tread or shaved 4/32 they last just as long. However 4/32 I get more "fast" heat cycles from them.

I did run some a 3/32 only to match existing tires due damaging one tire in a set. I still like 4/32. I even ran 4/32 in the wet from intermediate conditions to full on down pour. They were actully solid in in the deep water at 4/32 on their second heat cycle. full tread may have been faster, but these were great in the deep water for qualifying and wet to drying track for race later that day.
Old 05-10-2010, 07:23 PM
  #30  
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Well I already have full tread ones on the way.

Next time I'll try 4/32. I can wait



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