Streak

Koni is suggesting these shocks for me. Any feedback?

Front
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KON-86101437RACE/

Rear
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KON-8210-1159SPT/

*Please note that for the rear, you will be towards the upper end of the adjustment range of the damper*

How concerned should I be about "being at the upper end"

I have a 1986 911 (no street application)

I will be installing a 23/33 t bar soon as well as a better sway bar (smart/TRG)

I like that these are off the shelf rather than waiting half the season for a revalving job.

Advice appreciated.

Gary R.

Nah, and why do you have to wait 1/2 a season for properly valved Bilsteins? You should do all the changes at once as the shocks will be valved FOR the 23/33 TB's.. they are all part of a system.

Cory M

If you don't want to wait for Bilstein to finish the revalve I'm pretty sure Elephant Racing has revalved shocks in stock you can buy and send in your Bilstein cores. Probably more expensive than going direct to Bilstein but you are paying for the convenience. 23/33 is pretty stiff and I would be surprised if you found and off-the-shelf damper that matches it well.

SundayDriver

I would not buy a shock where I know I am starting close to the adjustment limit (either direction). It may work, but if you change spring rate, bars or just try to use the shocks to adjust for some bizarre problem, you could be SOL. Bad compromise, IMO.

Veloce Raptor

Agreed.









Professional Racing and Driving Coach

Streak

Thanks for the feedback.

I will do all the upgrades at one time. I just can't buy it all at once

I'll look into elephant racing.

My only experience with Bilstein was on Scott's car and it seemed to take forever to get the shocks back. Close to 8 weeks IIRC.

Gary R.

Buy new ones and when they arrive sell yours or send them in then. Wait until you can do it all properly, though adding the SR sways now using whatever you have is a good move.

Streak

Arrgh! I was going to do sways later in favor of being able to do shocks and tbars now as I'll have the car apart in the very near future to install my secret weapon

Gary R.

Streak - what shocks/TB's are in there now? Stock? If so, IMHO, the SR sways are the only part of the system that will add to what you currently have along with adding slightly to your spring rate. Once you add the big TB's and properly valved shocks you can play with the sways to find the proper balance. Just my take on it since you can't do it all at once..

Streak

I now have a 22/30 set up with some very tired Koni adjustables. Pretty sure they are nothing special since they were mated to a 22/28 set up.

Sooooo, you think the sway is the more effective UG at this point?

You know I do everything you and Sean tell me to.

Gary R.

Shocks are very important but if you can't get the proper ones then do the sways for now and the shocks/TB's together ASAP. You have Koni's now? Are your front struts the right ones for Bilstein inserts? 22/30 isn't bad, we run 23/31's and that isn't incredibly stiffer...

Streak

I've got Konis and the konis are quite a bit less expensive. From what the Koni guy tells me they can revalve the rears to suit me so maybe I'll start that process that way my fronts won't be a fitment issue.

Or, if I did a 31mm rear maybe I don't have any revalving needs.

Or maybe I do something to Scotts car and I don't have to do anything at all

I'm looking at SR's site and there are 4 different sizes of sway bar, wtf?

kurt M

Each bar size has its own torsion range and curve. The ranges overlap but you want to try and size the bar so you are somewhere in the middle of the range. Car weight and spring (Tbar) rate are important factors in picking the right ARB. One good aspect of the SRP sway bar setup is all the bars are interchangable. If you find you are running all the to one end or the other in ajustment for a bar and still not quite right you can change just the bar. IMO if you don't have an ajustable front and rear bar you need them.

Streak

Kurt,

I do have a sway bar but it's a weltmeister that is about as big around as my ring finger. Probably just adds weight and drag

So if I get a 31 rear tbar do I get a 31 rear sway or is there another formula/relationship between the two?

It looks like I can save a ton of $$ by going with a 31mm rear tbar and not having to revalve the Koni shocks.

The next question is: is a 31mm tbar a handicap?

dbryant61

Streak,

Bilstein turned mine around in less than a month. They can do all four in less than a day, you just need to talk to them and make sure they are not very backed up. If you are sticking with non-adjustable, you may want to talk with Dan Jacobs. He has Bilsteins revalved with his own "secret recipe". Ask Gary R, Sean F, and Fred C.

If you do the sways first be ready for some serious tri-cycling. I installed Weltmeister 22s F&R before I even went to 22/28 t-bars. Friends said my inside front tire was 6" off the deck in turns 1-2 and Oak Tree at VIR.