WEVO 997 SS engine mount review
08-04-2009, 07:57 PM
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WEVO 997 SS engine mount review
3 months, 2 track events and about 2,500 miles ago I was given the opportunity to install a pre-production version of the new WEVO 997 Semi-Solid engine mounts designed specifically as direct replacements for the factory engine mounts in 996 and 997 cars. This is a new product that has not been available before (WEVO has other semi solid "C2" engine mounts, but they we designed to work with air-cooled 911’s).
Full disclosure: I have no affiliation with WEVO (Windrush Evolutions) other than as a customer. The owner wanted feedback on the installation difficulty and NVH impacts from a street/track dual-use 996 owner. I was happy to oblige and did the installation myself with my own tools.
The bottom line is that this product is easy to install and works as advertised. I will post my DIY installation instructions below. First, here are my detailed impressions:
Track Impressions – The mounts remove two problems that I had noticed in my car, without introducing any noticeable negative side effects on track. Firstly, the stock engine mounts allowed a perceptible “shift” as the engine moved in its mounts a fraction of a second after the car executed any really severe transition (such as from full throttle with a lateral load to full braking in a straight line (e.g. entry to T11 at Thunderhill). With the WEVO engine mounts, that phenomenon has disappeared. Secondly, in high-speed (4th gear) lateral transitions and across bumps while the car is under high lateral load, the mass at the rear of the car used to feel loose with the stock mounts. It now feels more tightly controlled. This is perceptible as an absence of the whiplash effect I sometimes felt with the stock mounts. This makes the rear of the car feel far more stable and gives the driver more confidence to push harder on these fast sections of track that are critical to laptimes in a Time Trial type setting.
NVH impacts of this modification:
Noise – Almost undetectable change. Slightly grittier tone to the interior engine noise, but overall in-cabin volume is virtually identical to stock. Tire noise is still the dominant sound in street driving. Only occasionally do I hear a piece of interior trim pick up on the additional engine-frequency vibration and become audible… but this, like tire noise, is surface-dependent. Otherwise almost no impact on cabin noise-levels. After about a week the altered cabin noise was completely transparent to me – and my car has no stereo so there’s not much else to listen to. It’s that minor.
Vibration – Subtle new vibration can be felt through the seat. Like a low-frequency purr that changes with engine rpms. The engine’s vibration is communicated more clearly to the cabin. Normal in-gear vibration is very subtle, but definitely there (i.e. it’s no longer absent). This is, of course, extremely mild compared to what true all-metal solid racing mounts would feel like, and this is the main achievement (IMHO) of this product for a dual-use car like mine since it gives me most of the advantages of a solid mount without the massive NVH penalty.
Harshness – Driveline lash is reduced. Engine no longer wiggles in its mounts at start-up and shut-down. Car feels slightly more “raw” under acceleration. IMHO, these are all net positives. No resonances or other annoying side-effects have appeared so far (3 months and 2,500 miles).
Summary: If you only drive on the street, or only casually track your car (i.e. you are happy to enjoy the track without worrying about laptimes) then there is no reason to do this modification. On the other hand, if you are already driving at competitive speeds on the track and are serious about getting every last fraction of a second out of your laptimes (e.g. at Time Trial events), then this is entirely worthwhile and relatively painless modification. As a side benefit, you may also enjoy the increased grittiness in your car’s day-to-day feel.
Context: 2003 Carrera 6-sp C2 coupe, street driven weekly in an urban environment, stock except X74 suspension, MPSC's and some weight-saving measures. Track impressions from Buttonwillow (longest CW configuration w/ Star Mazada): best time 2:07.4 and Thunderhill (CCW longest configuration, over the top): best time 2:02.5
Attached Photos:
WEVO 997 SS mounts, also shown side-by-side with OEM 996 mount
Instructions to follow.
Cheers,
Q
Full disclosure: I have no affiliation with WEVO (Windrush Evolutions) other than as a customer. The owner wanted feedback on the installation difficulty and NVH impacts from a street/track dual-use 996 owner. I was happy to oblige and did the installation myself with my own tools.
The bottom line is that this product is easy to install and works as advertised. I will post my DIY installation instructions below. First, here are my detailed impressions:
Track Impressions – The mounts remove two problems that I had noticed in my car, without introducing any noticeable negative side effects on track. Firstly, the stock engine mounts allowed a perceptible “shift” as the engine moved in its mounts a fraction of a second after the car executed any really severe transition (such as from full throttle with a lateral load to full braking in a straight line (e.g. entry to T11 at Thunderhill). With the WEVO engine mounts, that phenomenon has disappeared. Secondly, in high-speed (4th gear) lateral transitions and across bumps while the car is under high lateral load, the mass at the rear of the car used to feel loose with the stock mounts. It now feels more tightly controlled. This is perceptible as an absence of the whiplash effect I sometimes felt with the stock mounts. This makes the rear of the car feel far more stable and gives the driver more confidence to push harder on these fast sections of track that are critical to laptimes in a Time Trial type setting.
NVH impacts of this modification:
Noise – Almost undetectable change. Slightly grittier tone to the interior engine noise, but overall in-cabin volume is virtually identical to stock. Tire noise is still the dominant sound in street driving. Only occasionally do I hear a piece of interior trim pick up on the additional engine-frequency vibration and become audible… but this, like tire noise, is surface-dependent. Otherwise almost no impact on cabin noise-levels. After about a week the altered cabin noise was completely transparent to me – and my car has no stereo so there’s not much else to listen to. It’s that minor.
Vibration – Subtle new vibration can be felt through the seat. Like a low-frequency purr that changes with engine rpms. The engine’s vibration is communicated more clearly to the cabin. Normal in-gear vibration is very subtle, but definitely there (i.e. it’s no longer absent). This is, of course, extremely mild compared to what true all-metal solid racing mounts would feel like, and this is the main achievement (IMHO) of this product for a dual-use car like mine since it gives me most of the advantages of a solid mount without the massive NVH penalty.
Harshness – Driveline lash is reduced. Engine no longer wiggles in its mounts at start-up and shut-down. Car feels slightly more “raw” under acceleration. IMHO, these are all net positives. No resonances or other annoying side-effects have appeared so far (3 months and 2,500 miles).
Summary: If you only drive on the street, or only casually track your car (i.e. you are happy to enjoy the track without worrying about laptimes) then there is no reason to do this modification. On the other hand, if you are already driving at competitive speeds on the track and are serious about getting every last fraction of a second out of your laptimes (e.g. at Time Trial events), then this is entirely worthwhile and relatively painless modification. As a side benefit, you may also enjoy the increased grittiness in your car’s day-to-day feel.
Context: 2003 Carrera 6-sp C2 coupe, street driven weekly in an urban environment, stock except X74 suspension, MPSC's and some weight-saving measures. Track impressions from Buttonwillow (longest CW configuration w/ Star Mazada): best time 2:07.4 and Thunderhill (CCW longest configuration, over the top): best time 2:02.5
Attached Photos:
WEVO 997 SS mounts, also shown side-by-side with OEM 996 mount
Instructions to follow.
Cheers,
Q
Last edited by quickxotica; 08-05-2009 at 01:27 PM.
08-04-2009, 08:03 PM
#2
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WEVO ENGINE MOUNT INSTALLATION:
Time: Once the car is secured on jackstands and the weight of the motor is supported by a jack, plan on 15 minutes to remove the airbox and the small electric air pump, then 15-20 minutes to remove and replace each of the two engine mounts, then 15 minutes to reinstall the air pump and airbox.
Tools needed:
floor jack and soft (e.g. wood/rubber) jack-pad
four jack stands
Torque wrenches for 18 ft-lbs & 60 ft-lbs
18mm deep socket (1/2” drive) and a 10”+ extension
13mm socket (3/8” drive)
10mm socket (3/8” drive)
two ratchets (1/2” drive & 3/8” drive)
various short extensions (and a universal flex coupling is helpful too) for the smaller sockets
A ½”drive breaker bar (to loosen the bottom nut on each stock engine mount)
flat-head screwdriver
flashlight
Steps:
1. Raise the car securely onto four jackstands (or a lift)
2. Remove the X51 engine protection plate (if you have one): three 10mm bolts
3. Using a soft jack-pad, support the motor’s weight with the floor jack (raise the jack until the pad contacts the solid metal hardpoint at the center-rear of the motor, then use the jack to carefully raise the motor a 1½” or so (stop just before you see the rear of the car start to lift). This takes the weight off the existing engine mounts.
4. Remove the airbox: loosen the hose-clamp on the large rubber intake hose where it connects to the throttle body; unclip the electrical connection (by pinching its sides between your fingers); open the two plastic clips securing this electric lead to the airbox; remove the 10mm bolt at front-center of the airbox; free the oil-filler tube from its spring clip; finally, wiggle the airbox out in one piece.
5. Remove the air-pump from the left corner of the engine bay (it blocks access to the top of the driver’s side engine mount): remove two 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut securing the pump’s bracket to the car (you do not need to separate he pump from its bracket – both come out as one piece); unclip the electric connection and plastic wire-clips; wiggle the pump out of the car.
6. Replace first engine mount completely before loosening the second mount: Lay on your back under the car, use the 18mm deep socket, extension and breaker-bar to loosen the bottom nut; remove nut & save (you will re-use all hardware); then, from above in the engine bay, remove the two 13mm bolts connecting the engine mount to the car; remove factory engine mount; compare mount to WEVO mount to verify proper dimensions; insert WEVO mount from above – making sure that the square shape beneath the cone of the WEVO mount is aligned & fully seated within square hole in the engine carrier; install two 13mm top bolts (hand-tighten only for now); install main 18mm nut from below; if the mounts are properly seated into the engine carrier, you should see about 4 extra threads of the main bolt exposed beneath the main nut. Torque main nut to 60ft-lbs; then torque 13mm top bolts to 18-19 ft-lbs
7. Replace second engine mount (as above)
8. Remove engine supporting jack
9. Check alignment of new mounts and check torque of all six attachment points
10. Reinstall air pump
11. Reinstall airbox (before you do this, take the opportunity to inspect & clean your throttle body)
12. Lower car and test drive. Recheck torque on main (lower) bolts after 100 miles or so.
Time: Once the car is secured on jackstands and the weight of the motor is supported by a jack, plan on 15 minutes to remove the airbox and the small electric air pump, then 15-20 minutes to remove and replace each of the two engine mounts, then 15 minutes to reinstall the air pump and airbox.
Tools needed:
floor jack and soft (e.g. wood/rubber) jack-pad
four jack stands
Torque wrenches for 18 ft-lbs & 60 ft-lbs
18mm deep socket (1/2” drive) and a 10”+ extension
13mm socket (3/8” drive)
10mm socket (3/8” drive)
two ratchets (1/2” drive & 3/8” drive)
various short extensions (and a universal flex coupling is helpful too) for the smaller sockets
A ½”drive breaker bar (to loosen the bottom nut on each stock engine mount)
flat-head screwdriver
flashlight
Steps:
1. Raise the car securely onto four jackstands (or a lift)
2. Remove the X51 engine protection plate (if you have one): three 10mm bolts
3. Using a soft jack-pad, support the motor’s weight with the floor jack (raise the jack until the pad contacts the solid metal hardpoint at the center-rear of the motor, then use the jack to carefully raise the motor a 1½” or so (stop just before you see the rear of the car start to lift). This takes the weight off the existing engine mounts.
4. Remove the airbox: loosen the hose-clamp on the large rubber intake hose where it connects to the throttle body; unclip the electrical connection (by pinching its sides between your fingers); open the two plastic clips securing this electric lead to the airbox; remove the 10mm bolt at front-center of the airbox; free the oil-filler tube from its spring clip; finally, wiggle the airbox out in one piece.
5. Remove the air-pump from the left corner of the engine bay (it blocks access to the top of the driver’s side engine mount): remove two 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut securing the pump’s bracket to the car (you do not need to separate he pump from its bracket – both come out as one piece); unclip the electric connection and plastic wire-clips; wiggle the pump out of the car.
6. Replace first engine mount completely before loosening the second mount: Lay on your back under the car, use the 18mm deep socket, extension and breaker-bar to loosen the bottom nut; remove nut & save (you will re-use all hardware); then, from above in the engine bay, remove the two 13mm bolts connecting the engine mount to the car; remove factory engine mount; compare mount to WEVO mount to verify proper dimensions; insert WEVO mount from above – making sure that the square shape beneath the cone of the WEVO mount is aligned & fully seated within square hole in the engine carrier; install two 13mm top bolts (hand-tighten only for now); install main 18mm nut from below; if the mounts are properly seated into the engine carrier, you should see about 4 extra threads of the main bolt exposed beneath the main nut. Torque main nut to 60ft-lbs; then torque 13mm top bolts to 18-19 ft-lbs
7. Replace second engine mount (as above)
8. Remove engine supporting jack
9. Check alignment of new mounts and check torque of all six attachment points
10. Reinstall air pump
11. Reinstall airbox (before you do this, take the opportunity to inspect & clean your throttle body)
12. Lower car and test drive. Recheck torque on main (lower) bolts after 100 miles or so.
06-17-2010, 09:24 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Wow just read thru this and I like it! Thanks for the DIY and information regarding the mounts. So for now it's a 1:1 on pros and cons for this mod. Personally I only drive the car for fun in the back roads so this is tempting.....
How would you know if your mounts are going bad?
How would you know if your mounts are going bad?
