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What's the latest on aluminum jacks?

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Old 06-03-2009, 08:52 PM
  #16  
banzaisan
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[QUOTE=Arkadi;6621423]Not to hijack, but I have a sears that did the same thing: lost pressure. Is this fixable or under the craftsman warranty?
QUOTE]

I have the same problem with my Sears jack. The jack is not under the Craftsman warranty. The jacks are only guaranteed for 90 days.

Craftsman warranty applies only to hand tools.
Old 06-03-2009, 08:59 PM
  #17  
s997gt3
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Originally Posted by APKhaos
Anyone have the procedure for bleeding the generic Al jacks?
Mine is a US General model #47246 and the user manual has long since disappeared!
i have a big red 1 1/2 ton jack made by Torin that i bought about two years ago and not long after i purchased it ,it would no longer hold pressure so i called the customer service and they told me how to bleed it out and it worked but i went on to find out was that i would have to continue to bleed it out every couple of weeks.

with the jack pad at the lowest position close the breather screw, than turn the jack handle clockwise until tight. than turn the jack handle counter clockwise 2-3 turns than pump the jack handle lup and down fast 10 strokes,than open the breather screw 1/8 turn.

and I'm good to go
Old 06-03-2009, 10:10 PM
  #18  
VERBOTN
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David:

Swing by and you can use my sears jack (plan b) until your fittings and hose sort themselves out. PM me and I will let my admin know you are coming by.
Old 06-04-2009, 12:39 AM
  #19  
APKhaos
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with the jack pad at the lowest position close the breather screw, than turn the jack handle clockwise until tight. than turn the jack handle counter clockwise 2-3 turns than pump the jack handle lup and down fast 10 strokes,than open the breather screw 1/8 turn.
Thanx! I'll try that.
Old 06-04-2009, 09:28 AM
  #20  
kurt M
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Guess I am lucky. I have had 3 floor jacks and all have worked well. One was the old school steel auto shop standard and was about 1/2 the weight of the car it could lift. Sold it. An alcan from Costco that I do not like to use as it takes many pumps to go through a full stroke but it is tall. One of the first "junk" HF aluminum jacks that has seen many years of shop and track use without failure.

No one should ever get hurt from a jack failure. I am in the auto shop field, play a role in safety management and have had to learn much regarding car lifting and injury. Getting hurt or killed while jacking a car is a user training and procedure failure. Good procedure will produce safe results even when there is a mechanical failure. Jacks lift and lower, Stands hold. Don't put body parts under a jack held only car. Period. Not chocking non lifted wheels is #1 reason for lifting failures with hand jacks not the jack itself. Cars tend to fall of jacks and stands when the car or the surface under the jack or stand shifts or fails.

Chock both sides of all non lifted wheels. Check stability before reaching under to place stands. Use stands correctly and on surfaces that are able to hold the load. (Tony, CMP’s sand is not on that list) Understand that the car balance might change as you install or remove parts.
Old 06-04-2009, 09:44 AM
  #21  
HODY905
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Regarding the bleeding description, which is the bleeder screw? If I recall there are three screws: a large and small one and a hex type. Which is used for bleeding and which is used for filling with hydraulic fluid?
Old 06-04-2009, 04:12 PM
  #22  
s997gt3
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Originally Posted by RJohn
Regarding the bleeding description, which is the bleeder screw? If I recall there are three screws: a large and small one and a hex type. Which is used for bleeding and which is used for filling with hydraulic fluid?
on mine their is 2 screws just behind the saddle facing upward the one on the left i'm not sure maybe its the fill hole.
the one on the right theirs a sticker that says SAFETY VALVE DO NOT ADJUST.

than on the rear below the handle theirs a screw facing rearward,the sticker says breathing screw,--this is the one that i use to bleed the jack.



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