Advice on wheel heat issue
03-03-2009, 02:23 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I've had poor luck with CV longevity on my 964 since it was purchased. If your car is lowered much the angle of the axle becomes non-ideal and puts a lot of stress on the CV. In the last 5 years of ownership, I don't think I've ever had a set of axles last more than 1 season (10 weekends). In the last 2 years as I've really started to push the car to the limit, they have not lasted more than 5 weekends. Other folk in my race class running the same axles have had the same problem. The leaking grease is the signal of failure.
When we investigated last year, we found that the grease that they come with was destroyed in as few as 3 hours on the track. We tried Neo and they still failed after about 6 hours (3 weekends). At the end of the year we switched to Krytox made an adjustment to try and improve the angle of the axles and then I ran a normal weekend with an extra 4-hour enduro. The axles/CVs were disassembled and inspected last week and I'm told they look great. They are being re-assembled abd they will be run another 10 hours before the next inspection (unless they fail sooner).
The Krytox is not cheap and they hate working with it because of the toxicity, but if it makes the axles last 2x longer (or better) then it is worth it.
Being in San Jose, you can contact Rich Walton at Jerry Woods. They are doing all the work on my car and there are 2 other cars with the same issue they are working to address.
In addition to checking the axles/CV, as mentioned, make sure you use MIL spec tape or the metal HVAC tape from Home Depot to tape on the wheel weights.
If you are a novice and running 2:15 or slower at TH, the stock brake pads are going to be fine. Make sure that they have plenty of pad material (more than 1/2 inch). Bringing spare pads is always a good idea.
When we investigated last year, we found that the grease that they come with was destroyed in as few as 3 hours on the track. We tried Neo and they still failed after about 6 hours (3 weekends). At the end of the year we switched to Krytox made an adjustment to try and improve the angle of the axles and then I ran a normal weekend with an extra 4-hour enduro. The axles/CVs were disassembled and inspected last week and I'm told they look great. They are being re-assembled abd they will be run another 10 hours before the next inspection (unless they fail sooner).
The Krytox is not cheap and they hate working with it because of the toxicity, but if it makes the axles last 2x longer (or better) then it is worth it.
Being in San Jose, you can contact Rich Walton at Jerry Woods. They are doing all the work on my car and there are 2 other cars with the same issue they are working to address.
In addition to checking the axles/CV, as mentioned, make sure you use MIL spec tape or the metal HVAC tape from Home Depot to tape on the wheel weights.
If you are a novice and running 2:15 or slower at TH, the stock brake pads are going to be fine. Make sure that they have plenty of pad material (more than 1/2 inch). Bringing spare pads is always a good idea.
03-03-2009, 02:58 PM
#17
Agent Orange
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
How are the rear pads wearing compared to the front, provided you're using the same brand, etc?
03-03-2009, 05:05 PM
#18
Race Director
Thread Starter
I've had poor luck with CV longevity on my 964 since it was purchased. If your car is lowered much the angle of the axle becomes non-ideal and puts a lot of stress on the CV. In the last 5 years of ownership, I don't think I've ever had a set of axles last more than 1 season (10 weekends). In the last 2 years as I've really started to push the car to the limit, they have not lasted more than 5 weekends. Other folk in my race class running the same axles have had the same problem. The leaking grease is the signal of failure.
When we investigated last year, we found that the grease that they come with was destroyed in as few as 3 hours on the track. We tried Neo and they still failed after about 6 hours (3 weekends). At the end of the year we switched to Krytox made an adjustment to try and improve the angle of the axles and then I ran a normal weekend with an extra 4-hour enduro. The axles/CVs were disassembled and inspected last week and I'm told they look great. They are being re-assembled abd they will be run another 10 hours before the next inspection (unless they fail sooner).
The Krytox is not cheap and they hate working with it because of the toxicity, but if it makes the axles last 2x longer (or better) then it is worth it.
Being in San Jose, you can contact Rich Walton at Jerry Woods. They are doing all the work on my car and there are 2 other cars with the same issue they are working to address.
In addition to checking the axles/CV, as mentioned, make sure you use MIL spec tape or the metal HVAC tape from Home Depot to tape on the wheel weights.
If you are a novice and running 2:15 or slower at TH, the stock brake pads are going to be fine. Make sure that they have plenty of pad material (more than 1/2 inch). Bringing spare pads is always a good idea.
When we investigated last year, we found that the grease that they come with was destroyed in as few as 3 hours on the track. We tried Neo and they still failed after about 6 hours (3 weekends). At the end of the year we switched to Krytox made an adjustment to try and improve the angle of the axles and then I ran a normal weekend with an extra 4-hour enduro. The axles/CVs were disassembled and inspected last week and I'm told they look great. They are being re-assembled abd they will be run another 10 hours before the next inspection (unless they fail sooner).
The Krytox is not cheap and they hate working with it because of the toxicity, but if it makes the axles last 2x longer (or better) then it is worth it.
Being in San Jose, you can contact Rich Walton at Jerry Woods. They are doing all the work on my car and there are 2 other cars with the same issue they are working to address.
In addition to checking the axles/CV, as mentioned, make sure you use MIL spec tape or the metal HVAC tape from Home Depot to tape on the wheel weights.
If you are a novice and running 2:15 or slower at TH, the stock brake pads are going to be fine. Make sure that they have plenty of pad material (more than 1/2 inch). Bringing spare pads is always a good idea.
Thanks for the info.
03-03-2009, 06:09 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Neither, it's an issue of the grease covering the rotor and reducing braking energy to zero as the friction between the pad and the rotor is lost due to the rotor being covered in grease.