18' open trailer needs tire rack help
#16
Race Car
and some fuel and tool storage, plus 2 trailer tires... hmmm. maybe a double tire rack?
Chrisp, how did you attach your tire rack? through the floor or just sides?
#17
It's bolted through the floor. The fact that it's sitting on the deck means that the bolts are really just there to keep it from sliding around on the trailer. You don't need to go overkill with the hardware on a design like this.
Another neat feature which wasn't installed at the time of this picture is I have a strip of 1/8" x 2" steel angled and welded to the cross bar to meet the tire surface so there's a flat surface for the tires to sit on - no harsh edge to dig into the tires. There's also a grip tape available at Home Depot (only place I could find it) that is 2" wide and 96" long and fits perfectly on the angled steel. This keeps the tires in place and most importantly the tires from wearing through the paint.
The tubing is 1 1/4" square everywhere. For the unsupported crossbar (one with no triangulation) it only flexes about 1/2" when i sit on it (230 lbs). Overall it's pretty stout for my use but you should have your welder recommend a final design to meet your needs.
Also, with the 17'6" deck Featherlite a 2500lb 911 sits entirely behind the rack. The space under the rack is totally available for storage. If I recall correctly, the nose of my car is 25" behind the front edge of the trailer deck. This also let's you build the rack low so it's in the slipstream of the tow vehicle. My crossbars are around 28" off the deck and there's about 24" from the deck to the bottom of the tires when they are on the rack. The overall height is about 4' with tires installed. It's an easy rack to get tires on and off of and the aero benefit is huge.
Good luck with your build.
Another neat feature which wasn't installed at the time of this picture is I have a strip of 1/8" x 2" steel angled and welded to the cross bar to meet the tire surface so there's a flat surface for the tires to sit on - no harsh edge to dig into the tires. There's also a grip tape available at Home Depot (only place I could find it) that is 2" wide and 96" long and fits perfectly on the angled steel. This keeps the tires in place and most importantly the tires from wearing through the paint.
The tubing is 1 1/4" square everywhere. For the unsupported crossbar (one with no triangulation) it only flexes about 1/2" when i sit on it (230 lbs). Overall it's pretty stout for my use but you should have your welder recommend a final design to meet your needs.
Also, with the 17'6" deck Featherlite a 2500lb 911 sits entirely behind the rack. The space under the rack is totally available for storage. If I recall correctly, the nose of my car is 25" behind the front edge of the trailer deck. This also let's you build the rack low so it's in the slipstream of the tow vehicle. My crossbars are around 28" off the deck and there's about 24" from the deck to the bottom of the tires when they are on the rack. The overall height is about 4' with tires installed. It's an easy rack to get tires on and off of and the aero benefit is huge.
Good luck with your build.
#18
Drifting
Not the best angle, but you can see the rack and the stone guard.. Works well I just wish the rack was a little lower. <-- the only time you'll ever hear that out of my mouth..
#19
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Thanks again for the continuing pic additions. I am working with Moroso, in Guilford, CT. Some of you may know them. Paul in the fab shop there is an artist with metal, not that I'm looking for anything too special here but he custom designs....well, anything metal for a race car.
This coming week I am bringing the car and trailer back to him after he looked it over a few days ago along with all the pics here and a few others I had. He found them interesting and took measurements.
He is going to start with my ideas/needs, your pics and fab just a basic rack, mid height, that holds eight wheels. Once that is tacked up he will build what he sees fit in terms of actually securing the tires. We plan on getting a basic rack done asap and add to it later. My immediate needs are two weeks away, a 1000mi trip, a van vs pickup and five passengers. Gotta get the tires, ramps and maybe a few other items on the trailer for now. I will post pics. Thanks everyone.
This coming week I am bringing the car and trailer back to him after he looked it over a few days ago along with all the pics here and a few others I had. He found them interesting and took measurements.
He is going to start with my ideas/needs, your pics and fab just a basic rack, mid height, that holds eight wheels. Once that is tacked up he will build what he sees fit in terms of actually securing the tires. We plan on getting a basic rack done asap and add to it later. My immediate needs are two weeks away, a 1000mi trip, a van vs pickup and five passengers. Gotta get the tires, ramps and maybe a few other items on the trailer for now. I will post pics. Thanks everyone.
#20
Race Car
I no longer have this trailer, but here's what I did for my open steel trailer. If I did it again, I would put the tires in the front and the storage boxes in the back, making it easier to load/unload tires with the car on the trailer. I had it made at a race shop - it's roll-cage tubiing put to a different use...
Cheers
Randy
Cheers
Randy
#21
Rennlist Member
this 20' trailer which i just sold had the tire rack mounted just ahead of the flatbed. Worked out great although i never had enough extra wheels to go all the way across the whole thing. My new trailer is similar but lighter w/ an open center and better ramp placement in the rear. Im thinking of getting another tire rack or making one to put on this new one. - this pic i have the tires in the truck because the bar that held the tires i forgot to pick up at the storage place....duh.
thanks
#22
Rennlist Member
I'm looking at trailers myself now- how small can/should I go with 2 sets of extra wheels? The rack can extend over the front hood as in James-man's pic; his doesn't look anything more than 18'- smaller even?
#23
Burning Brakes
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I'm going to home depot to get parts to do my tire rack tomorrow. The plan is to attach a flange on the top of each arm of the A to which I can thread in a length of 2" galvanized pipe. 24" will easilly stack two wheels vertically. Much simpler than a horizontal rack.
If I can get all the bits and pieces tomorrow, I'll post a pic.
If I can get all the bits and pieces tomorrow, I'll post a pic.
#24
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How strong will that cast flange be? You'll have some weight leveraging against the flange as the tires rock back and forth that might be too much. Just a thought...
I'm going to home depot to get parts to do my tire rack tomorrow. The plan is to attach a flange on the top of each arm of the A to which I can thread in a length of 2" galvanized pipe. 24" will easilly stack two wheels vertically. Much simpler than a horizontal rack.
If I can get all the bits and pieces tomorrow, I'll post a pic.
If I can get all the bits and pieces tomorrow, I'll post a pic.
#25
I'm going to home depot to get parts to do my tire rack tomorrow. The plan is to attach a flange on the top of each arm of the A to which I can thread in a length of 2" galvanized pipe. 24" will easilly stack two wheels vertically. Much simpler than a horizontal rack.
If I can get all the bits and pieces tomorrow, I'll post a pic.
If I can get all the bits and pieces tomorrow, I'll post a pic.
#26
Race Director
#27
Well you could try something with a deck just a little longer than your wheelbase, say 10". I saw something like that once but never took any pictures. You would require extra long ramps. Still, I wouldn't recommend it.
#29
Burning Brakes
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Here's what I came up with. The pipes are 1 1/2" black steel, and that's just a standard flange. I cut and drilled the four bottom pieces from a hunk on steel bar that I had. I used an eye bolt for one thnking I'd need to strap the tires down with a ratchet strap, but I don't think it's necessary. No worries about the strength of the flanges; I can bear against them with all my might and they're plenty strong.
I thought the tires would have more of a tendency to tip side to side, but they don't; they're really stable just sitting there.
I could also drill a hole near the top of the pipe for a padlock to keep the wheels on the trailer.
These pipes are 24" long; two wheels are no problem. I could probably get a third on there with the snow tires, but it might be cutting it a bit close with wider tires. I think 36" pipes would be OK, and that'll let me get 6 on the rack, then I'd only need to find room for a couple more in the back of the truck.
All told it was $32 at home depot + the bar stock that I already had; say $10 more if I had to buy it.
BTW - It cost me $16 to find out that 2" black pipe has an OD just about 1/8" too large to fit through the center opening of a Porsche wheel.
I thought the tires would have more of a tendency to tip side to side, but they don't; they're really stable just sitting there.
I could also drill a hole near the top of the pipe for a padlock to keep the wheels on the trailer.
These pipes are 24" long; two wheels are no problem. I could probably get a third on there with the snow tires, but it might be cutting it a bit close with wider tires. I think 36" pipes would be OK, and that'll let me get 6 on the rack, then I'd only need to find room for a couple more in the back of the truck.
All told it was $32 at home depot + the bar stock that I already had; say $10 more if I had to buy it.
BTW - It cost me $16 to find out that 2" black pipe has an OD just about 1/8" too large to fit through the center opening of a Porsche wheel.
#30
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I saw a very similar set up at the track this weekend only he used the steel chain link fence posts. Not sure how they were attached.
I saw a very similar set up at the track this weekend only he used the steel chain link fence posts. Not sure how they were attached.