Motul RBF 660 beats out Castrol SRF?
#16
Burning Brakes
The wet boiling point is a strong indication as to how quickly the fluid will absorb moisture. Thiis is a big reason I switched to SRF. I actually found it cheaper in total cost per season as I was able to just change once a season vs. every other event with Motul 600...and this is me flushing it myself so the pain in the butt factor is huge by not having to flush as often.
#17
Rennlist Member
And here I always thought that only the older type DOT fluids actually absorbed water. It was my impression that the new types like ATE, Motul, and Castrol needed to be flushed to rid the system of moisture but the fluid and water are seperate entities. I have never had a problem with ATE Blue, Flush/bleed every 4 months .
#18
Mr. Excitement
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Wet # is 3 % moisture contamination not take up time. How long it takes to hit this level depends on the car and where it is. Live in Vegas? You might not see a wet point ever. The Everglades is another story.
Seems to me that the price point delta between the two is not enough to bother with the slightly cheaper fluid unless you are required to replace at each event or are cooking the SRF as the 660 has a higher boil point. SRF will cost less if you can keep it in the car for even one more event than the 660. If you are cooking SRF you might need to rethink the brakes and brake cooling.
BTW I have a 1/4 full can of ATE blue that is now about 5 years old. I only keep it around to test it from time to time with a true boil point tester. So far there has been about a 6 deg drop in boil point. Put the lid back on after decanting what you need and write the date on the can.
Seems to me that the price point delta between the two is not enough to bother with the slightly cheaper fluid unless you are required to replace at each event or are cooking the SRF as the 660 has a higher boil point. SRF will cost less if you can keep it in the car for even one more event than the 660. If you are cooking SRF you might need to rethink the brakes and brake cooling.
BTW I have a 1/4 full can of ATE blue that is now about 5 years old. I only keep it around to test it from time to time with a true boil point tester. So far there has been about a 6 deg drop in boil point. Put the lid back on after decanting what you need and write the date on the can.
#19
Wet # is 3 % moisture contamination not take up time. How long it takes to hit this level depends on the car and where it is. Live in Vegas? You might not see a wet point ever. The Everglades is another story.
Seems to me that the price point delta between the two is not enough to bother with the slightly cheaper fluid unless you are required to replace at each event or are cooking the SRF as the 660 has a higher boil point. SRF will cost less if you can keep it in the car for even one more event than the 660. If you are cooking SRF you might need to rethink the brakes and brake cooling.
Seems to me that the price point delta between the two is not enough to bother with the slightly cheaper fluid unless you are required to replace at each event or are cooking the SRF as the 660 has a higher boil point. SRF will cost less if you can keep it in the car for even one more event than the 660. If you are cooking SRF you might need to rethink the brakes and brake cooling.
If you drive sprint races, dry conditions, change frequently or have no though braking - SRF is waste of money. Your brake fluid will not be contaminated enough to make a difference. If someone doesnt feel comfortable with this, not used to keep an eye contamination or just don't mind the extra $, SRF would be a good insurance.
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aspan (02-21-2024)
#21
Rennlist Member
I've used super blue for years. Never had an issue. I bleed my brakes 4-5 times a year. I make sure it's a complete bleed i.e. 1 can each time and I pull down what's in the master cylinder so it's almost a flush.
#22
Drifting
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I switched to SRF based on the math (flushing/bleeding ATE much more often vs. SRF much less frequently). Honestly, at my skill level, SRF is probably not 'necessary'. I even put it in the wife's BMW M Coupe. For her car, SRF is 'fire and forget' (for at least a year, anyway). Honestly, as much money as I **** away on this hobby, especically for stupid **** I don't really even need, the little bit of extra money for SRF at $75/flush is fairly trivial.