Head restraint seat
#16
Originally Posted by RedlineMan
Hey;
The plastic seats in general do not have as big a head "fence" as other solutions. That said, any seat with head containment will make the aperture tighter for sure.
The best way to mitigate this is to have a seat on sliders that you can slip back to ease ingress/egress.
Things you need to consider, for sure.
The plastic seats in general do not have as big a head "fence" as other solutions. That said, any seat with head containment will make the aperture tighter for sure.
The best way to mitigate this is to have a seat on sliders that you can slip back to ease ingress/egress.
Things you need to consider, for sure.
I had to remove all the stock rail hardware and construct a new frame welded to the sill and tunnel, and even with that I can't use any sliders because the seat will be too high:
#17
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Definitely a good idea to sit in any seat before buying. It is important that the shoulder slots clear your shoulders so the belts don't run into your shoulder blades. I have some seat dimensions on file for Sparco and Sabelt if anyone is interested. You also have to watch for seat width, if you are a large driver in a smaller car, the seat may not fit. Brey Krause does make some nice mounting options for Porsche sidemount seats.
If you are racing with NASA, they are requiring either a headwrap seat or a right-side sprint net effective July 1, 2007. We've been selling the Safety Solution sprint nets if customers aren't sure about the headwrap seats or need more time to explore their options. Below is the latest from the CCR:
15.17.9 Head Restraint – Side Impact
As of July 1st, 2007 it is required that all drivers employ a right-side impact head restraint
system. A seat with a “bolster” to keep the head from moving to the right side in an
impact is acceptable. A side-impact head-net restraint system, such as the Racetech
RTViperRP is also acceptable. Note- all side-impact head-net restraint systems must
have a quick-release mechanism to aid the driver in case of a necessary egress via the
passenger side.
Note- it is recommended that a side net wrap around the seat and function to help stop
the shoulders, head bolster (if applicable), and seat from moving sideways in an impact.
It is best to follow the manufacturer’s suggestions for installation of any safety device.
If you are racing with NASA, they are requiring either a headwrap seat or a right-side sprint net effective July 1, 2007. We've been selling the Safety Solution sprint nets if customers aren't sure about the headwrap seats or need more time to explore their options. Below is the latest from the CCR:
15.17.9 Head Restraint – Side Impact
As of July 1st, 2007 it is required that all drivers employ a right-side impact head restraint
system. A seat with a “bolster” to keep the head from moving to the right side in an
impact is acceptable. A side-impact head-net restraint system, such as the Racetech
RTViperRP is also acceptable. Note- all side-impact head-net restraint systems must
have a quick-release mechanism to aid the driver in case of a necessary egress via the
passenger side.
Note- it is recommended that a side net wrap around the seat and function to help stop
the shoulders, head bolster (if applicable), and seat from moving sideways in an impact.
It is best to follow the manufacturer’s suggestions for installation of any safety device.
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Toll free: 866-505-2739
Direct: 843-299-0997
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#19
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Originally Posted by chrisp
I purchased through Sube. Great seats and when I dealt with them Sube was very knowledgeable.
JCM
#20
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Originally Posted by jaydubya
Gotcha.
I had to remove all the stock rail hardware and construct a new frame welded to the sill and tunnel, and even with that I can't use any sliders because the seat will be too high:
I had to remove all the stock rail hardware and construct a new frame welded to the sill and tunnel, and even with that I can't use any sliders because the seat will be too high:
Why stop there? Go for the floor, Dude!
Seriously, I modded the floor on my car. Set the same type of steel reinforcements INTO the floor. Also, the Sparco slider is the shortest one going, and works well. Adds only about .75". Even though this raises the seat, if you have flat sided side plates (I make my own for this reason), you can then simply slip the seat farther down between them.
If the underside of your seat base is not skimming the floor, you can go lower... if you're crafty!
#21
Originally Posted by RedlineMan
Oh come now, JW;
Why stop there? Go for the floor, Dude!
Seriously, I modded the floor on my car. Set the same type of steel reinforcements INTO the floor. Also, the Sparco slider is the shortest one going, and works well. Adds only about .75". Even though this raises the seat, if you have flat sided side plates (I make my own for this reason), you can then simply slip the seat farther down between them.
If the underside of your seat base is not skimming the floor, you can go lower... if you're crafty!
Why stop there? Go for the floor, Dude!
Seriously, I modded the floor on my car. Set the same type of steel reinforcements INTO the floor. Also, the Sparco slider is the shortest one going, and works well. Adds only about .75". Even though this raises the seat, if you have flat sided side plates (I make my own for this reason), you can then simply slip the seat farther down between them.
If the underside of your seat base is not skimming the floor, you can go lower... if you're crafty!
Well since that photo was taken, I cut out the center section of the rear bar and welded reinforcements for the stubs to the tunnel and sill. So now the rear of my seat can drop between the stub and it is now about 1/2" off the floor
I should also mention that I don't use the bottom cushion, which buys me another 1/2-3/4" or so vertically. That puts my shoulders at just the right place for the shoulder belt holes. I must have a gigantic torso
#22
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Sparco Circuit Pro on sliders with Hahns -- no fit problems. The sliders are necessary for two drivers; but, even with the sliders there would be no way to get through the driver's window with the seat full aft against the cage. Egress possible with the helmet and Hahns; but, the Hahns hangs in the available opening and must be cleared. Not sure how you can test all of this prior to actually installing the seat in the car.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by jmorris3
I too have the Recaro PP and am getting ready to upgrade to a halo seat, is there any reason to stick with the Recaro brand at this point to be able to use the same sliders and mounts as the PP?
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Not that anyone cared to answer my question, but...the Recaro SPG will mount up to existing side mounts. Thanks for all the help...
I am currently running recaro pp seat and am looking to move to a "hans" style seat in the <$1000 range. The ones i see that seem to look good are the Sabelts. OMP, and racetech. Anybody have any recommendations or other suggestions?
#25
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I decided more research was needed as to what i fit into and how the seat was going to be to install. I have a nasa race next weekend and either needed a halo seat or rs net. I will figure a way to get the net installed and try some seats out. The Sabelt's, OMP's and racetechs all look good. The sparco seems pretty narrow unless they have a wider version available. I too am hoping for a bolt in like the Recaro's.
Mike
Mike
#27
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I bought the Sabelt Taurus XL and sliders but couldn't get it to fit in the 944 with the cage. Exchanged it for the Sabelt Racer, which is HANS compatible but doesn't have wings. Even if I could have found the 2" I needed for the Taurus I think egress would have been very difficult. I'll be installing the right side net this winter.
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The Butler one you see alot of Nascar guys use looks good. I don't know anything about price.
http://www.butlerbuilt.net/advantageseries.html
or this
http://www.butlerbuilt.net/roadraceadvantage.html
http://www.butlerbuilt.net/advantageseries.html
or this
http://www.butlerbuilt.net/roadraceadvantage.html
#29
Ha!
In any event, the key to a head containment seat is to make sure the head fences are at the right height. The top of the fence should be at the tip of your nose ideally. This will catch as much of your head as possible without restricting your side vision. "Window seats" have some advantage here, as they catch the top and bottom of the helmet, and so driver height can vary a bit more.
In any event, the key to a head containment seat is to make sure the head fences are at the right height. The top of the fence should be at the tip of your nose ideally. This will catch as much of your head as possible without restricting your side vision. "Window seats" have some advantage here, as they catch the top and bottom of the helmet, and so driver height can vary a bit more.