fatbillybob

Guys,

I'm a newbie to trailering cars. If your Porsche is say 3000lbs why are 10,000lbs (same as 3000lbs working strength) tiedowns recommended to tie down to the trailer? This would mean that the straps would be only good for a 3 G crash? Why don't people use chain with higher breaking strength? Also, Some say not to trailer with the car in gear because the rocking of the car can damage the gears. It would seem to me that you should trailer in gear and with e-brake on. Can you guys give me some tips.

TIA,

Paranoid Owners who does not want to be wearing his car

Karl S

Trailer with the parking brake set but the car out of gear. A single strap won't bear the full weight of the car if you have them connected properly, so the G force it can handle is higher than 3 Gs. I think steel chains are not used because they are expensive, heavy, and hard to work with. The only place I've seen them used is to tie down heavy construction vehicles that weight several tons more than a 911.

Karl

Eric in Chicago

I use 4 10K straps crossed right to left on the front and back. If you going to trailer your car, I would recommend the trailer tie down hooks from <a href="http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com." target="_blank">www.autometricsmotorsports.com.</a> These will save you a great deal of time when it comes time to hook up. I leave the car out of gear with the e brake on. Something else to think about, use wheel chocks once the car is set with straps. This will keep the car from moving should something happen. Also, at every gas stop, check the straps and wheels. On a tandem axle trailer, one wheel could go low (or flat) and you may not notice.

kary993

Yes, I agree with Eric on all points. I have not chocked the car though. Have not seen a need to since four 10K straps seem to really do the job very well. I also really like the tie down hooks, they work great and save a boat load of time!

I have been following these procedures and have not had any issues. I am off tomorrow noon for another event so hopefully I did not mess with fate here ;-))

Randy

I'm not for sure on this, but I think D.O.T. standards require anchors in quantity, or at a rating, that is equal to four times the static weight of the object you are trailering. So for a 3000lb car, 12000 lbs worth of straps minimum. For what it's worth, there are a few other issues to consider. The strategy of crossing the straps does help stabilize the car side-to-side, but by making an angle from the car to the tie down point, an extra stress is put on the strap, that is exponential for the movement of the car forward and back the point of exceeding the strap rating. Ideally, a person would run four straps at each end of the car, two in line and two crossing. If you only have four straps available, I would personally run them in line with the car. Another issue is whether the straps attach to the chassis or the suspension of the car. It is generally best to tie to the suspension when possible to allow the car's suspension to move more than if the straps went to the chassis. If you can make or get some eyes that bolt between the rear control arms and the shocks on the rear and some straps that tie back on themselves to wrap around the front control arms(NOT the tie rods!), the car will have a smoother ride, and the shocks will be allowed to stoke a little further than if the car was tightly strapped down. When attaching the straps to the chassis and compressing the suspension, the shocks will have a very short stroke in the trailer, almost an oscillation, and do not have the benefit of any fresh air passing by to cool them. Odd as it sounds, trailering a car tightly strapped down from the chassis will shorten the service life of your dampers(shocks) more than actual driving.
And ditto on setting the parking brake, and do leave the transmission out of gear. At least that's what I heard somewhere....

TWA

I don't chock the car (will now), and can say from first hand experience to check the trailer tires at each stop. Had one go flat on me on the way to the track and didn't notice... obviously ruined the tire. What a pain (have to unload the trailer, etc to fix the flat).

Don't know why you'd leave the car out of gear... having a AWD car, seems that'd be a benefit.

I strap down on the control/A arms. Heard about a company that provides wielded D rings to the chassis for easy tie downs. Anyone using such a setup?

John H

Go to <a href="http://www.p-car.com" target="_blank">www.p-car.com</a> and check out Robin's site. There is a link on there for the tie down hooks for 993's and 996/Boxter's and maybe others. Really easy to install and makes strapping down super easy. Never heard of leaving the car in neutral. Kinda makes sense though.

A930Rocket

I use tow eyes bolted at the rear lower shock mounts and the factory tie downs in front. I figure if the car can make it from Gemany to here on various forms of transport, i.e. car carrier, rail, ship, etc. it can take it on my trailer to the track.

I leave it out of gear also to prevent any problems there. The fronts are chocked with pieces of angle iron at each tire and I'm going to make some rear chocks of the same that will install and remove easily for peace of mind.

Because of my exhaust, I have to take the rear 10k lb straps straight back. The front are straight also.

Jim

Brandon Hull

Did you guys find a source for front tie down loops? I have the rears from Autometrics although haven't installed them yet. Honestly I never thought the tire straps were that much of a hassle but I like simplifying things: fewer parts.
Agree w/prior posts, reinforcing the advice to periodically check and tighten during long pulls. The straps do stretch.
Brandon
'80 SC G car #77

fatbillybob

Thanks for all the valuable info. For those of you who chock the tires assuming the car will rock a bit even if strapped, how do you mount the chocks so they don't fly off your trailer while driving?