butzip

I can tell you, the first time I removed the wheels on my 944 TS, I snapped a handful of alu lugs. What A pain in the @#$ I had to use a hole saw that just cleared the threads to grind what was left of the lug nut then I had to get in there with a chisel to break the remaining shoulder. All this in a desin 90 wheel where the lugs are deeply recessed.

I believe a dab of anti-seize could have prevented this whole excersise. Just apply sparingly because it squeezes out when tightened and does make a mess. Not to mention, it does not come out of clothing :-) The anti-seize impregnates the metal and will lubricate for quite a while.

Brgds, Peter

zimpwh

I run cup 1 wheels with aluminum nuts at present, but ordered 20 (+ a few spare steel) lugs yesterday.
Is their a prefered anti-seize compound?

FixedWing

What, no one has switch to titanium lug nuts yet?

Stephen

Alan Herod

To use or not use anti-seize is dependent on the torque specs, wet or dry (with or without lube). I discovered that using anti-sieze on bolts that specified dry torque resulted in a significantly stretched (weakend) bolt. Not using anti-sieze (or lube) on bolts that specify torque settings lubed will result in premature torque settings. 'Wet torque' setting specifications are based on lubricant (anti-sieze) on the threads.

Note: I did not answer the question; but, merely added some fuel to the fire. Check the manual!! My Honda manual specifies dry torque for lug nuts and I believe (but could be mistaken) my 911 specifies wet for lug nuts. Seriously different values.

second note: I edited this message because I left out wet in the setting specification. A lot more can be found on the web and there are more interesting sites then the one listed below --
http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

Russ Murphy

Yes, one should lubricate metal mechanical devices.

JasonAndreas

The torque spec for the wheel mounting bolts on a 964 and 993 calls for the threads to be lubed (in the Chassis workshop manual in the section on front strut replacement). For models prior this might be covered in a lugnuts TSB from 5/85 (I don't have it) and for the 996 and newer models Porsche specs , "Thinly grease thread, shank and under head (between screw head bearing surface and spherical cap ring) of the wheel bolts with Optimoly TA (aluminum paste). Do not grease bearing surface of the spherical cap facing the wheel. If heavily contaminated, clean bolts first with a lint-free cloth." from the Chassis workshop manuals, page 40-4.

VaSteve

If you're only supposed to put it on the threads, why would it matter why kind of wheel the shoulders touch?

Phokaioglaukos

Thanks, Jason, for the authoritative word. I greased my bolts some time ago, but not every time they are removed and replaced. That seemed like overkill. I'll have to reconsider now.

Bull

Yes, it does.

kurt M

Steve, IIRC the later lug bolts have a steel washer of sorts built into the steel lug bolt that spins against the bolt as the torque is set. The early cars such as your 944 with lug nuts tighten up alloy against alloy or alloy against steel in the case of track nuts. Ether combo is prone to galling as the nut twists against the wheel as torque is met. Steel on steel is much less prone to galling. A thin film of lube prevents galling and frozen fastners on dissimilar, soft or galling prone metals. Going "nuts" with the lube is the problem sometimes as a little goes a long way.

Ti is very prone to galling other metals and itself. Strong stuff for sure but does not play well with others when slid against them. For the most part Ti bolts require spec lube for asembly or they tear up the treads going in much less getting it out.

A930Rocket

This is clear as mud now...

Dave Parker

The link in Alan's post is a good one to look at. The link is correct. You will get a more consistent torque on large dia bolts/studs if they are lubricated. However, you must adjust the torque value used. As noted earlier, the moly or oil, or other dry lubricants reduce the friction between the male and female threads (lots of room for jokes here). With large dia fastners, the dry friction can be enough to 'weld' the threads together. I always lubricate the threads on large fasteners. (911 studs count as large fasteners)

Just be sure you know the appropriate torque spec.

JasonAndreas

All the wheel related Technical Service Bulletins from the eighties have a section specifically for aluminum wheel nuts, the steel fasteners are separate with no mention of them requiring lube;

"Aluminum wheels nuts require special care.

Before installing:

-- lubricate threads and shoulders of aluminum nuts with Optimoly HT, Part No 999-917-728-00 (Optimoly HT does not affect tightening torque)"

Later TSBs (1988-1989) referred to Optimoly TA, Part No 000-043-020-00

Adam M

Ok, now you guys made me register after reading this thread.

As far as the 'older' stuff (studs with nuts as opposed to the newer lub bolts), I would absolutely recommend anti-seize on BOTH the treads and nuts. I've been doing this for over 15 years on the same car and never had a problem. Torque at the normal specs. Do not over tighten. You don't have to reapply every time. You can "feel" when it needs reapplication when loosening them, after you get used to it. And if you don't have steel nuts, make the investment.

A little story about why I *really* believe in this. Many many years ago, at Watkins Glen, I changed the rear brake pads. Did a full 25 minute session and came in. After thinking about it for a few minutes I realized that I had only hand tightened the bolts (breaker bar spin, while wheel was loose in the air), probably about 5 - 10 ft/lbs. They didn't even come loose!!! Try that without anti-seize...

I never clean the stuff off the threads and let it build up and get thick. That is what kept them from unloosening at WG (disclaimer: kids don't try this at home). I will clean the conical surfaces of the nuts and wheel when I reapply it. Colin is correct about the anti-seize 'oozing' out. It does get a bit messy, but wipes up easily.

My 2 cents.

Paolo1

Could someone kindly direct me to a diagram with arrows that point to these parts of the nut?

Thinly grease thread, shank and under head (between screw head bearing surface and spherical cap ring) of the wheel bolts with Optimoly TA (aluminum paste). Do not grease bearing surface of the spherical cap facing the wheel

I am quite sure I know what the threads of the nut is, but beyond that, I need help please!