Any recommendations for track wheels?
#17
Still plays with cars.
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There have been reports of other brands cracking and/or breaking too. Do not get painted (colored) wheels as the finish can mask small cracks which are warning signs.
All lightweight wheels give up something in the way of durability as compared to the heavy OEM versions. Frequent inspection is a must with any of them in my view.
Best,
All lightweight wheels give up something in the way of durability as compared to the heavy OEM versions. Frequent inspection is a must with any of them in my view.
Best,
#19
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Originally Posted by Z-man
I have personally seen two Fiske's crack/break on track cars. I know of a third. Not trying to bad-mouth the Fiske's, just stating what I've seen. FWIW, in the two cases I know, the wheels were replaced no questions asked. Fortunately, in both cases, there was no additional damage to the car due to the wheel breaking.
-Z-man.
-Z-man.
#21
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I went through this decision process about 3 weeks ago and ended up ordering two sets of Forgelines. For the weight, strength, and warranty, they came out with the best value to me. ViperBob from the board here gave me a great price.
I had Fikses and ran them one year before they broke. Their customer service might be great, but one wonders if it has to be....
I had Fikses and ran them one year before they broke. Their customer service might be great, but one wonders if it has to be....
#22
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Originally Posted by 38D
Forgelines -- lite, strong and cheaper than Fikse/BBS, with a 3 year warranty that covers racing to boot.
#23
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Originally Posted by Rick
..The best thing about them (besides the race benefits) is that you'll find women surround your car that look exactly like Colin's avatar.
i am ready for 10 sets.
#25
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Rick
The best thing about them (besides the race benefits) is that you'll find women surround your car that look exactly like Colin's avatar.
#26
Race Director
Originally Posted by Bull
Z, if they are the cases that I think you are talking about, the specific problem was that the small bolts holding the centers to the rims sheared off on the inside of the rims. Eventually enough sheared to allow for a rather sudden loss of air in the tire. In both cases (and one similar case involving Kinesis wheels), the wheels had been bought used (well used in one case) and the owners wern't inspecting the inside of the wheels. One of them found another wheel just beginning to shed the bolts from the inside when he looked. Fikse took care of the people involved (rebuilt all 4 wheels), and also advised that these were old enough wheels to have the early bolts. The spec on the bolts was upgraded some years ago by Fikse.
One of the cases is that which you mention.
The other case involved a pretty decent crack on the spoke of a wheel - and when the driver looked more closely, a couple of his other wheels had similar cracks.
Since I only DE, I prefer to have the heavier OEM wheels, since they tend to hold up better, TYPICALLY. Besides, if I'm really concerned about reducing weight, I really need to focus on the spare tire. *My spare tire!
-Z.
#28
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Cracked wheel centers are not that uncommon on race/track cars.
I have seen and heard of various brands of race wheels that have failed (BBS, HRE, Speedlines and Forgelines). Likely the other brands of lightweight race wheels are also prone to similar fatique and impact failures (mostly forged mg alloy materials, and spun halves).
I have seen and heard of various brands of replica and aftermarket cheap copy wheels are prone to bending and cracking (mostly cast alum.).
OEM Porsche wheels and other high quality/brand name street wheels typically hold up pretty well (commonly a higher quality pressure casting), but they are heavy compared to race wheels and are expensive compared to the replica/copies. Everything is a trade off....
I have seen and heard of various brands of race wheels that have failed (BBS, HRE, Speedlines and Forgelines). Likely the other brands of lightweight race wheels are also prone to similar fatique and impact failures (mostly forged mg alloy materials, and spun halves).
I have seen and heard of various brands of replica and aftermarket cheap copy wheels are prone to bending and cracking (mostly cast alum.).
OEM Porsche wheels and other high quality/brand name street wheels typically hold up pretty well (commonly a higher quality pressure casting), but they are heavy compared to race wheels and are expensive compared to the replica/copies. Everything is a trade off....
#30
Originally Posted by Oddjob
OEM Porsche wheels and other high quality/brand name street wheels typically hold up pretty well (commonly a higher quality pressure casting), but they are heavy compared to race wheels and are expensive compared to the replica/copies. Everything is a trade off....
Richard