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-   -   roll cage window net mounting (https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/260796-roll-cage-window-net-mounting.html)

mjensen 03-19-2006 10:40 AM

roll cage window net mounting
 
What is the "proper" way to mount the net to the cage? My 951 has nascar drivers side and the a-pillar goes through the dash. I intent on using a top quick release but uncertain how the bottom should be mounted? Does anyone have any pics?

bgiere 03-19-2006 10:47 AM

we are going to use the Schroth kit on our 944...i have the same one on the 964 cup and it works and installs perfectly...

http://www.schroth.com/produkte/raci...ware_size1.htm

RedlineMan 03-19-2006 11:28 AM

Hey;

Window nets are a pain. I try to mount them to reduce flapping. I have never raced, nor driven with a net in place, but I have to imagine the flapping would be annoying. Then, you may not notice in the heat of battle.

So far, I have found the best way to reduce flap is to rod mount them top and bottom. The old style fabric nets are easy because they have a loop at each strap end. The newer mesh type don't have those, so you need to come up with something.

Dave in Chicago 03-19-2006 12:26 PM

And... make sure you can operate the latching/unlatching while strapped in with your HANS, helmet, etc.

Mine is "strapped" to the door beam on the bottom. The top has two welded-in tabs that accept the upper bar supporting the net. The top action is spring loaded with a handle. Not easy to put in, but very easy to take out.

Geo 03-19-2006 02:55 PM


Originally Posted by RedlineMan
Window nets are a pain.

I agree. I've built my net mount already, but I've had all sorts of reserves about it and I'm going to change it at the last minute. The problem is, I don't know exactly how I'm going to do it and I don't know if I'm going to use a spring loaded rod at the top or a buckle type set-up. If I go with a buckle type set-up I want to be able to keep the latch out of the way for entry and exit.

On my bottom rod I have a metal loop on the X that allows the rod to drop down and to limit how far up it goes. In the back, to let the rod drop I actually have a spherical rod end that the rod goes through. A bit of over kill, but also a bit slick.

I don't have much time to figure out the top because I'm about a day away from being ready finally prep for paint.

mjensen 03-19-2006 04:17 PM

Brant, I like the scroth net kit...what size to you use/recommend? I think this has to be the nicest one so far...

bgiere 03-19-2006 04:57 PM

we got the smaller one for the 944..i believe there are only two sizes....the Schroth with the Schroth hardware kit is the best one i have used...easy to position and mount,very durable and works as advertised...you won't regret it...

RedlineMan 03-19-2006 06:58 PM

Geo;

The last one I did was a buckle type. I used a hinge on the tab to let it pivot out of the way and not rake your back or catch your clothing every time you get in/out.

http://redlinerennsport.com/CageVentEntrance.jpg

I think I would be sorely tempted to mount it inside the side hoop way up high somehow to get it out of the way. I'd also look real hard at the spring loaded rod instead. The latches are problematic in some respects, and not nearly fool-proof.

mjensen 03-19-2006 07:22 PM

The hinge idea is really slick, inside and high out of the way is also a good suggestion...

Geo 03-20-2006 01:16 AM

Thanks for the input John. I kind of like the hinge idea. While I was working on the car today I looked at my options. None of them look great, but I don't like what I have at the top.

When you say the latches aren't nearly fool-proof, are you talking about the spring loaded or the buckle type?

I'm going to have to make a commitment to one or another in the next couple of weeks if I'm going to get it installed before painting.

RedlineMan 03-20-2006 08:22 PM

Hey;

The push button type. The one here had been ground on some, and was too thin to stay clipped. I fixed it by sharpening the trailing edge of the hole where the latch catches on it with a file. The lever latch type would be pretty foolproof I'd think.

fatbillybob 03-21-2006 01:07 AM

This is what I did with just 3/8 rod and a small seatbelt set. The weight is kept down and it is cheap.

http://i1.tinypic.com/rvh6hz.jpg
Here is the seat belt latch easy and recognizable for safety workers. and the latch hidden hi enough to not get in the way of ingress and egress

http://i1.tinypic.com/rvh8wh.jpg
This is the buckle cliped to the latch.

http://i1.tinypic.com/rvh9j9.jpg
This is the other end that just slides in a hole from some 0.120" plate I welded to the cage.

http://i1.tinypic.com/rvhbp4.jpg
This is the fixed bottom of the net with a 3/8" rod drilled at both ends to allow the rod to slide in and be pinned to lock in place.

http://i1.tinypic.com/rvhcmg.jpg
Here is a close up of the drilled rod and retaining pin.

Maybe this gives you some ideas.

Dave in Chicago 03-21-2006 07:21 PM

2 Attachment(s)

I'd also look real hard at the spring loaded rod instead.
John - I REALLY like the spring-loaded deal on my car. Can't say where the rod came from, may have been part of the kit used by the cage builder. Allows for small eyelit-type tabs to receive the upper rod.

Lower rod has a ball type joint welded to cage in rear, strapping holding lower bar towards the front.

You may also notice the cage running through the air vent in the front. I know John is a big fan of this technique. I certainly am as well. MUCH more room to swing one's feet in/out of the car.

Heck, I drive the car to work in a suit and tie all the time!

svochuck 04-10-2006 02:39 AM

Lots of good info but,... does anyone have a setup for nascar stlye door bars? the top mount is easy. the lower mount can't go on the side bar (it's inside the door). any ideas? i guess the straps going down to the floor would work but seems there should be a better way.

chuck

Mike Buck 04-10-2006 10:54 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Not sure about your NASCAR bar lower mounting, but here is a slightly different take on the upper bar. The door bars on my car don’t extend fully into the door, just flush with it.

Upper forward mount in a buckle type on the A-pillar, but the cross bar is bent to follow the contour of the roofline. This gives a taller drive such as myself a better view through the net and not looking right at the metal rod. Rear mounts are both heim joints. The lower bar is this bent rod deal that moves up and down when the net is unbuckled. Only one point of attachment (A-pillar) that I have to worry about connecting while in the car. Un-snap it and the net rotates down to sit flush with the side of the seat for easy exit (in an upright car). Bottom picture doesn't show the net pushed back and down as far as it will really go

Can take better pictures this weekend if you want


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