Bonehead Rotor Install
#1
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Bonehead Rotor Install
I spent Saturday at Carolina Motorsports Park driving the EVO Lancer. I was having some overheating brake issues and eventually lost the brakes with the pedal going to the floor.
I have Performance Friction floating front rotors and pads. I couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble. So I pulled off the rotors tonight only to notice that I put them on backwards. The cooling swirly vanes were swiring in the wrong direction and thus not forcing any air through the rotors. Needless to say, I switched them around and I will need new pads now because the pads are all cracked. I also removed the protective shields behind the rotors taking care to hose clamp the ABS wire to the hub carrier.
My question is...is it OK to switch the rotors around to their proper positions? Could I have done any damage to them? Namely to the hardware that allows them to float? Are they designed to only get forces in one direction? What do you think. My gut feeling tells me they're OK.
Anyways...here's some pics and a video too:
Video...Click Here Now
Pictures....Click Here NOW
I have Performance Friction floating front rotors and pads. I couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble. So I pulled off the rotors tonight only to notice that I put them on backwards. The cooling swirly vanes were swiring in the wrong direction and thus not forcing any air through the rotors. Needless to say, I switched them around and I will need new pads now because the pads are all cracked. I also removed the protective shields behind the rotors taking care to hose clamp the ABS wire to the hub carrier.
My question is...is it OK to switch the rotors around to their proper positions? Could I have done any damage to them? Namely to the hardware that allows them to float? Are they designed to only get forces in one direction? What do you think. My gut feeling tells me they're OK.
Anyways...here's some pics and a video too:
Video...Click Here Now
Pictures....Click Here NOW
#2
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Jake,
What is the part number for the pads 1001.10 or 7781.97 or 7781.01
This sounds like a fluid issue to me, with a car as heavy as the EVO you should probably switch to Motul or Castrol SRF, and bleed regularly.
As for the Direct Drive rotors, the bobbin's will not be damaged by running the rotor backwards, so you're fine.
-Phil
pgilsdorf@performancefriction.com
What is the part number for the pads 1001.10 or 7781.97 or 7781.01
This sounds like a fluid issue to me, with a car as heavy as the EVO you should probably switch to Motul or Castrol SRF, and bleed regularly.
As for the Direct Drive rotors, the bobbin's will not be damaged by running the rotor backwards, so you're fine.
-Phil
pgilsdorf@performancefriction.com
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Originally Posted by JakeMate
I spent Saturday at Carolina Motorsports Park driving the EVO Lancer. I was having some overheating brake issues and eventually lost the brakes with the pedal going to the floor.
I have Performance Friction floating front rotors and pads. I couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble. So I pulled off the rotors tonight only to notice that I put them on backwards. The cooling swirly vanes were swiring in the wrong direction and thus not forcing any air through the rotors. Needless to say, I switched them around and I will need new pads now because the pads are all cracked. I also removed the protective shields behind the rotors taking care to hose clamp the ABS wire to the hub carrier.
My question is...is it OK to switch the rotors around to their proper positions? Could I have done any damage to them? Namely to the hardware that allows them to float? Are they designed to only get forces in one direction? What do you think. My gut feeling tells me they're OK.
Anyways...here's some pics and a video too:
Video...Click Here Now
Pictures....Click Here NOW
I have Performance Friction floating front rotors and pads. I couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble. So I pulled off the rotors tonight only to notice that I put them on backwards. The cooling swirly vanes were swiring in the wrong direction and thus not forcing any air through the rotors. Needless to say, I switched them around and I will need new pads now because the pads are all cracked. I also removed the protective shields behind the rotors taking care to hose clamp the ABS wire to the hub carrier.
My question is...is it OK to switch the rotors around to their proper positions? Could I have done any damage to them? Namely to the hardware that allows them to float? Are they designed to only get forces in one direction? What do you think. My gut feeling tells me they're OK.
Anyways...here's some pics and a video too:
Video...Click Here Now
Pictures....Click Here NOW
Sorry, I can't help you with you question! But I have a TT with very similar Mods to yours. Do you track your TT. How does it compare to the EVO (braking, accelerating, suspension)? I would love to hear your experience
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Originally Posted by Stuttgart
Jake,
What is the part number for the pads 1001.10 or 7781.97 or 7781.01
This sounds like a fluid issue to me, with a car as heavy as the EVO you should probably switch to Motul or Castrol SRF, and bleed regularly.
As for the Direct Drive rotors, the bobbin's will not be damaged by running the rotor backwards, so you're fine.
-Phil
pgilsdorf@performancefriction.com
What is the part number for the pads 1001.10 or 7781.97 or 7781.01
This sounds like a fluid issue to me, with a car as heavy as the EVO you should probably switch to Motul or Castrol SRF, and bleed regularly.
As for the Direct Drive rotors, the bobbin's will not be damaged by running the rotor backwards, so you're fine.
-Phil
pgilsdorf@performancefriction.com
Thanks for your input.
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Originally Posted by RXDOC
Jake:
Sorry, I can't help you with you question! But I have a TT with very similar Mods to yours. Do you track your TT. How does it compare to the EVO (braking, accelerating, suspension)? I would love to hear your experience
Sorry, I can't help you with you question! But I have a TT with very similar Mods to yours. Do you track your TT. How does it compare to the EVO (braking, accelerating, suspension)? I would love to hear your experience
Ergonomics in the TT are second to none. It just fits like a glove. The TT's sound is awesome too. Nothing like the feeling of driving a Porsche
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Jake:
Thanks for your input on this matter. I have been considering tracking a much less costlier alternative to my TT. And an AWD 300-400HP alternative seems like the way to go! I am very surprised with the handling and braking comments, I would have thought the opposite.
Well this certainly gives me alot to think about!
Thanks for your input on this matter. I have been considering tracking a much less costlier alternative to my TT. And an AWD 300-400HP alternative seems like the way to go! I am very surprised with the handling and braking comments, I would have thought the opposite.
Well this certainly gives me alot to think about!
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JakeMate, my son has an EVO that he tracks, and we have had our share of brake problems. The brakes generate so much heat (because the fronts are doing most of the work) that the bright red Brembo color has now turned horribly dark (Brownbos?). Anyway, we solved his problems by removing all the plastic panels from under the car to allow better air flow to the brakes, adding brake duct scoops, changing the fluid to a 300 degree dry boiling point type, and running Pagid RS-19 pads. It stops pretty reliably now.
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Larry Herman
JakeMate, my son has an EVO that he tracks, and we have had our share of brake problems. The brakes generate so much heat (because the fronts are doing most of the work) that the bright red Brembo color has now turned horribly dark (Brownbos?). Anyway, we solved his problems by removing all the plastic panels from under the car to allow better air flow to the brakes, adding brake duct scoops, changing the fluid to a 300 degree dry boiling point type, and running Pagid RS-19 pads. It stops pretty reliably now.
Thank you so much for this valuable info. Mine are Brownbo's too now. I removed the dust shields on the inside and I'm going to make some scoops to direct air also. I just ordered some flex tubing and am hoping I'll be able to route it in there to the brakes. I never thought about removing all the plastic panels. Wouldn't this affect the aerodynamics of the car though by increasing lift?
I'll try a better fluid than the ATE Super Blue and I'll consider the Pagid pads too.
Thanks again.
Jake
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BTW....I think I had the rotors correct in the first place. I'll have to switch them back. Check out this picture from Stoptech's website:
#11
Race Car
lol, i had the same experience with my M3, with DEALER INSTALLED rotors. when i put new rotors on i noticed they had previously been installed backwards with the cooling vanes "scooping air in" instead of venting it outward. dumbass dealer techs.
#12
sometimes the directional pattern of the holes does not match up the pattern of the vanes... most of the rotors are designed to "fling" air out so it's better to peek inside than to rely on the holes