Potential Caution for 944s at Shenandoah -- Updated with Some Data
10-26-2005, 01:59 PM
#61
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TD - are you doing the work yourself? i had my machining done at a shop for about $500 for everything including cleaning, machining, and balancing. i also used forged rods in the rebuild. get some of those.
the rebuild kits are pretty inexpensive, but if you get both upper and lower kits and replace all the sensors and belts and clutch and so on, it can get expensive. my total cost was over $5000 doing all the work myself.
it sounds like you've already started...you've got a stand. my other suggestion is to get an impact wrench and air ratchet. it will save you lots of time on dissassembly, and there are some things you can use the ratchet for on reassembly.
the rebuild kits are pretty inexpensive, but if you get both upper and lower kits and replace all the sensors and belts and clutch and so on, it can get expensive. my total cost was over $5000 doing all the work myself.
it sounds like you've already started...you've got a stand. my other suggestion is to get an impact wrench and air ratchet. it will save you lots of time on dissassembly, and there are some things you can use the ratchet for on reassembly.
10-26-2005, 03:14 PM
#62
Race Director
Impact gun helps for flywheel bolts and main crankt bolt too.
Although I have air tools I tend to use the manual stuff more. I like that I can feel things.
Crazy might be I...
Although I have air tools I tend to use the manual stuff more. I like that I can feel things.
Crazy might be I...
10-26-2005, 03:23 PM
#63
Need to be ultra careful with impact tools on these engines. My experience with the dissimilar metals corrosion that can lock threads tight is that too much force can strip threads and/or break fastners fairly easily. I had air tools on hand during my rebuild last winter, but used hand tools almost exclusively. Air tools are handy and quick, but they can cause problems quickly. Better to go a little slower and feel what's happening before the problems become major ones.
YMMV etc.
YMMV etc.
and more than a little help from my friends.
10-26-2005, 04:25 PM
#66
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Hollywood, you now wrench on water pumpers?? Just because the 944 has the same number of cylinders as the 912S doesn't make them the same 
10-26-2005, 04:43 PM
#67
Originally Posted by Carrera51
Hollywood, you now wrench on water pumpers?? Just because the 944 has the same number of cylinders as the 912S doesn't make them the same
10-26-2005, 04:45 PM
#68
Mr. Excitement
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How much diferent could they be? They have a gear driven cam, finned jugs, pushrods and carbs don't they?
Don't let Tony fool you, he did a nice rebuild oon the 951.
Don't let Tony fool you, he did a nice rebuild oon the 951.
10-26-2005, 06:56 PM
#69
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I would say he did. His motor didn't blow up
10-26-2005, 07:07 PM
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I always fill about .5-.75 qt over full since my car (and many others with poor valve guides) spends about .5-1qt per 40 min session. I figure the first few laps are for warmup anyway (i.e. slower turns/braking) and will burn a bit of oil off(engine is usually working just as hard on the straights). My goal is to always keep a bit above the "full" level. I personally think the cavitation issues are overstated here (unless you throw in an extra gallon or so 
). I still haven't replaced a rod-bearing...although I will be doing them this fall if I don't buy a new track toy! I would think that cars pulling more than 1g (most-track dedicated cars) will start to run into some issues though. Who knows...I don't have any data, only my emperical observations, so I could be wrong.
). I still haven't replaced a rod-bearing...although I will be doing them this fall if I don't buy a new track toy! I would think that cars pulling more than 1g (most-track dedicated cars) will start to run into some issues though. Who knows...I don't have any data, only my emperical observations, so I could be wrong.
) over the fateful weekend.
10-26-2005, 07:36 PM
#72
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impressive. on track tires? what type of suspension setup do you have and how stiff are the springs?
10-26-2005, 07:39 PM
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Wow...1.4g sounds extremely high. In my car with R-compound, upgraded shocks, springs, sways I can only pull ~1g according to my DAS. Maybe try filtering the data a bit to smooth out the peaks.
10-26-2005, 07:42 PM
#74
Joseph:
I was runing Toyo RA1s on 15x8 Fuchs all around. All I know about the suspension is from the seller's flyer, which states the following:
FRONT: Turbo shock mounts, strut tower brace, cut down 300 lb.springs, shocks. Heavy Porsche MO30 30MM front sway bar. High performance solid bushings. High strength steel a-arms (This car is lowered approx 2 inches.)
REAR: Porsche MO30 26 mm. sway bar, gas shocks.
Desirable 30 mm. torsion bar. Solid bushings.
I don't know how accurate the DL-1 is or what is "normal." I was just a little surprised when I looked at the numbers.
I was runing Toyo RA1s on 15x8 Fuchs all around. All I know about the suspension is from the seller's flyer, which states the following:
FRONT: Turbo shock mounts, strut tower brace, cut down 300 lb.springs, shocks. Heavy Porsche MO30 30MM front sway bar. High performance solid bushings. High strength steel a-arms (This car is lowered approx 2 inches.)
REAR: Porsche MO30 26 mm. sway bar, gas shocks.
Desirable 30 mm. torsion bar. Solid bushings.
I don't know how accurate the DL-1 is or what is "normal." I was just a little surprised when I looked at the numbers.
10-26-2005, 07:45 PM
#75
Originally Posted by FormulaOne10
Wow...1.4g sounds extremely high. In my car with R-compound, upgraded shocks, springs, sways I can only pull ~1g according to my DAS. Maybe try filtering the data a bit to smooth out the peaks.
