Bent wheel....safe on the track??
#16
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Hey Doug;
It's all a matter of degrees. Aluminum is a funny material. It all depends on the alloy used. Some aluminum will bend back and forth till the cows come home. Some will bend once and then snap. Some won't bend at all, just snap.
It depends how much the rim is bent. I'd gather yours is not much and is a good candidate for straightening. Small dings of flat spots can be worked out on a roller or press. I'm not sure I would want a rim that had a piece welded back in, but yours should be fine, assuming I've guessed right on the damage.
It's all a matter of degrees. Aluminum is a funny material. It all depends on the alloy used. Some aluminum will bend back and forth till the cows come home. Some will bend once and then snap. Some won't bend at all, just snap.
It depends how much the rim is bent. I'd gather yours is not much and is a good candidate for straightening. Small dings of flat spots can be worked out on a roller or press. I'm not sure I would want a rim that had a piece welded back in, but yours should be fine, assuming I've guessed right on the damage.
#17
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Assuming Mr. Florida at Ernie's is reputable, I would go for the new take-off wheel. It's only $500 minus your trade in... so, the difference is under $200 for a brand new wheel vs. having the bent one repaired.
However, Mr. Florida could be selling rehashed previously repaired rims, too... hmmm.
However, Mr. Florida could be selling rehashed previously repaired rims, too... hmmm.
#18
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The whole issue of: do they BEND 'em back or weld/lathe them is eaily adressed...it depends on the damage to the wheel, and what type of wheel, quality of manufacture, or lack thereof.
I would suggest you get your wheel fixed, as it sounds like it's very repairable. The shop that fixes wheels wouldn't take it on if it wasn't.
As suggested before, what do you have to lose?? It should cost around $100 and you may not have to address the issue again.
FWIW, I've had TWO wheels fixed, they were factory Cup II 17" wheels, they continue to thrive on a friend's race car...with NO issues. One just needed some powder coating removed at the mating surface that was making it wobble, the other one had to be "tweaked" back into shape.
I would suggest you get your wheel fixed, as it sounds like it's very repairable. The shop that fixes wheels wouldn't take it on if it wasn't.
As suggested before, what do you have to lose?? It should cost around $100 and you may not have to address the issue again.
FWIW, I've had TWO wheels fixed, they were factory Cup II 17" wheels, they continue to thrive on a friend's race car...with NO issues. One just needed some powder coating removed at the mating surface that was making it wobble, the other one had to be "tweaked" back into shape.
#19
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Update:
Dropped my car off to have the wheel repaired, a couple of days later I get a call from the SA" we're really embarrased...your wheel is fine, it's not bent". Now the car drives fine, no shakes, rattles or rolls. Go figure.
Dropped my car off to have the wheel repaired, a couple of days later I get a call from the SA" we're really embarrased...your wheel is fine, it's not bent". Now the car drives fine, no shakes, rattles or rolls. Go figure.