Adjustable control arms or camber plates
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Adjustable control arms or camber plates
I've got 14 track days on my 09 Boxster PDK w/Sport/Sport+. I'm really wearing the edges off of my PS4S plus want better turn-in and grip in the "S" (Summit Point Main). I will need to upgrade the stock suspension to get a negative camber track set up. My son says adjustable control arms are better than camber plates. I still need to drive the car to the events and open top driving between events. VIR is on my wish list and its 226 miles. How much negative camber can I put in and still drive on the street without adversely wearing the front tires? With adjustable control arms could I DIY between a track and street camber being "close enough"?
#2
Nordschleife Master
ideally you want both, but neither is “better”. Camber is camber. You want to remove as much rubber from the suspension as well, at least for ultimate handling, and there is rubber in the stock LCAs and Strut tops.
#3
Burning Brakes
I noticed you started a bunch of threads on topics that were discussed many times before.
Using the search engine would help you find all the info you need in the threads discussing these topics and you wouldn't even have to wait for members to answer you.
Trying to be helpful :-)
Using the search engine would help you find all the info you need in the threads discussing these topics and you wouldn't even have to wait for members to answer you.
Trying to be helpful :-)
#5
Camber plates will add about 1 degree on your Boxster. If you are maxed out on the factory adjustment to begin with you might see a total of -1.8 camber. GT3 style LCA with shims can get you to about -3.0. I run -3.0 on my track/street car and have been doing so for years. There are reasons to use both because of caster, possible wheel rub issues, or maxing negative camber.
#6
Rennlist Member
Just drive the car.
When you start desperately looking for tenths start looking for setup changes. It is almost certainly true that changes in driver inputs would give you more grip than changes to front camber will in the short to medium term time frame. If you're solo, ask an instructor to ride with you a session or two.
When you start desperately looking for tenths start looking for setup changes. It is almost certainly true that changes in driver inputs would give you more grip than changes to front camber will in the short to medium term time frame. If you're solo, ask an instructor to ride with you a session or two.
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#8
Rennlist Member
I'll only address your worry as to wearing the inside edge of the tire as the previous posters have more knowledge then I do when it comes to "should you" get plates or GT3 LCA w/shims or neither. The photos below are of my retired front left Conti Extreme Contact Sport (very similar to the PS4S) after 11K miles including 20 track days from my street legal wanna-be Spec Boxster in PCA white DE run group. The car has PSS9 shocks and is lowered about 1.5" from stock height, I have Elephant Racing camber plates at -2.7. Due to their design, their plates apparently allow for over 2 degrees of negative in addition to what the car can give you stock. So -3 in theory?
As you can see the inner edge wear is obviously there but by no means did it kill the tire early. Im sure a 200 tread wear tire might not of lasted as long but without some extra negative the outside edge would probably been smoked quickly, it's a catch 22.
The only negative to running a lot of neg. camber if one were to call it is the fronts tend to follow grooves in the road, this does not bother me in the least bit but it is also a track car.
Front Left
Outside Edge -Front Left
As you can see the inner edge wear is obviously there but by no means did it kill the tire early. Im sure a 200 tread wear tire might not of lasted as long but without some extra negative the outside edge would probably been smoked quickly, it's a catch 22.
The only negative to running a lot of neg. camber if one were to call it is the fronts tend to follow grooves in the road, this does not bother me in the least bit but it is also a track car.
Front Left
Outside Edge -Front Left
#9
Changing the camber between street and track means you're also altering your toe and upsetting the alignment. Unless you're changing your alignment specs based on the track you're running, find a setup that you like and leave it there.
A bit more negative camber than stock isn't a bad thing on the street. Yes, you're more likely to cone the tires (cone, not cup), but you're not necessarily wearing through your tires any faster.
Also consider that hot tires being thrown around a track will wear a lot more than what you get on the street driving to the track.
When checking tire wear, just measure from the inside of the tire rather than the outside.
I have camber plates on the front and adjustable arms on the rear. Mostly because it's easier to adjust plates on the front and easier to adjust arms on the rear. -2.5° all around with a slight toe-in in the rear.
A bit more negative camber than stock isn't a bad thing on the street. Yes, you're more likely to cone the tires (cone, not cup), but you're not necessarily wearing through your tires any faster.
Also consider that hot tires being thrown around a track will wear a lot more than what you get on the street driving to the track.
When checking tire wear, just measure from the inside of the tire rather than the outside.
I have camber plates on the front and adjustable arms on the rear. Mostly because it's easier to adjust plates on the front and easier to adjust arms on the rear. -2.5° all around with a slight toe-in in the rear.
#10
Three Wheelin'
I see you are running Conti Extreme Contact DW. If that is your track tire, you may want something like Extreme Contact Sport or another tire MPS4S or PZeros. I have a set of the ECDW on another car and find the sidewalls aren’t as stiff as I’d like.