Mussl Kar

I plan on doing the wheel change with just a bit more effort than a desk job. And sitting on a seat dolly. And alone. For sure I am looking to see how much interest there is in a better idea to develop a product for changing CL wheels. Tested prototype last night. Hell Yeah.

nolimits

Ok, I'll stick my neck out a little, this not factory recommended but works quick/easy once use to it. On 991.1 TTS for me:

Tools - jack, Precision 3/4" Tq bar and breaker bar (Tooltopia), reversed ends vice/spreader bar (Harbor Freight), optional CL wheel alignment tool.

-Do one car side at a time.
-With car down still, put on reverse vice bar between brake pedal and seat frame, squeeze on brakes.
-Now slightly crack CLs on the one target car side first, carefully, weight is on those CL threads not spread over 5 lugs.
-Then lift that target side of car with jack at OEM rear specified jack point, whole side of car lifts both side wheels off.
-No jack stands used so stay out from under any part of car, you are relying on a stable jack.
-Remove CLs fully now, putting in wheel guide adapter if wanted after.
-Remove each wheel on that side.
-Re-spread existing CL grease evenly or ad new.
-Put on new target wheels, gently tightening, keeping car safely stable and not torqueing hard.
-Carefully lower car to ground then fully TQ wheels to 440 lbs. Un-torque and re-torque if desired.
-Take out jack and go do other side.

Works fine for me but at your own risk. Don't ever let CLs go very loose or fully slack while car is on ground. Ideally jack stands are used and any un-torqueing or torqueing is done with car up, stable, and no weight on CLs.

See this:

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-turb...moval-diy.html

stujelly

With our 997 RS there were 5 in our group all had the same cars at all the DE's. Me and one other guy always had to change wheels and pads sometimes at every event and we used a torque multiplier for a while but dealer showed me issues with inconsistent torquing on my hub so went to a larger torque wrench to reach the spec. Used the torque multiplier to break loose the nuts. Didnt have nice big impact gun but if I were to do it now, yes I would break loose with impact gun, but not tighten. Not worth risking the wrong torque on the center locks at the speeds we carry. I use snap on for race tools and I have my torque wrench calibrated every 2 years. I do like the wheel center tool as it helps keep you from scratching wheels or caliper. Dont forget the lube you need on the centerlock.

I would also get a track set of center lock nuts so you are not worried about boogering them up. I always keep a unmolested socket and center lock nuts for when the car went to the dealer.....

Just my 2 cents.

Mr. Turtles

I tracked every couple weeks this summer with several other guys with GT3's running CL's and we change our wheels all the time. Similar to how "no limits" explained it but we follow the book - tighten in the air including torque to 443 with a 1/4 back off and retighten (you can safely break them slightly on ground) use a spreader to hold the brake pedal and you can jack it up to break and tighten. You only need to jack the car from the rear and you can get the rear and front off the ground. In over 100 tire changes we have never seen the car move to the point that we felt jack stands were needed (yes they are safer just don't put your body underneath). We will even move tires side to side every 4-6 sessions. With a little bit of experience I can safely change all 4 now in around 30-40 minutes and do a side to side in 20-25. As per the Porsche mechanics at our DE days, don't overload the aluminum paste just a little is necessary and often the paste can just be respread. Get a latex/nitrile glove to spread with - you don't need to put it on - just use like a rag to spread the paste. It'll save your regular work gloves. I use the Precision instruments tools but my friends are using torque multipliers which seems to actually be easier.

Yes the 5 lugs are easier - can use air tools - but after a few changes of the CL's its a piece of cake without an impact gun. I've heard of guys using impact guns on the 997 (as per stujelly's post) but the higher torque setting and as per Porsche recommendations and my own experience you shouldn't use an impact gun on the 991 as it will destroy your centre lock nut and likely more.