F-Stock Boxster Build
#61
Any reason not to run coolsuit hose through this hatch on drivers side in rear of frunk area?
It looks like rainwater could get to this area so I'll have to seal up the passthru, but the nice part is this leads directly to the drivers side where I want to tie up the hose (drivers side door cage).
It looks like rainwater could get to this area so I'll have to seal up the passthru, but the nice part is this leads directly to the drivers side where I want to tie up the hose (drivers side door cage).
#62
Aircraft supply places usually cary quality switches and guards. This is what I use https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...eatonGuard.php
This is the switch commonly used in motorsports applications https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-Sealed-MilSpec-OFF-ON-Switch-MS24523-22-1TL1-2/321294782197?epid=1723682213&hash=item4acea94ef5:g:7QUAAOSwboVXO2~O:rk:8 f:0
This is the switch commonly used in motorsports applications https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-Sealed-MilSpec-OFF-ON-Switch-MS24523-22-1TL1-2/321294782197?epid=1723682213&hash=item4acea94ef5:g:7QUAAOSwboVXO2~O:rk:8 f:0
Last edited by will968; 02-11-2020 at 12:05 AM.
#63
Rennlist Member
Any reason not to run coolsuit hose through this hatch on drivers side in rear of frunk area?
It looks like rainwater could get to this area so I'll have to seal up the passthru, but the nice part is this leads directly to the drivers side where I want to tie up the hose (drivers side door cage).
It looks like rainwater could get to this area so I'll have to seal up the passthru, but the nice part is this leads directly to the drivers side where I want to tie up the hose (drivers side door cage).
#64
I have seen other boxsters with the cool shirt tubes run through there. I avoided that area due to concerns of water intrusion right into the fuse box. I ran mine behind the battery, along the center tunnel.
Moreover, I prefer the hose to the drivers left, but I guess it could loop from the tunnel to around behind the drivers seat thereby missing the fuse area.
#65
If I do use the driver side hatch, I designed (and will 3D print) a bulkhead to be secured to the top of the hatch that will permit the cooling tubes to pass through tightly and through a raised vertical surface to mitigate any rainwater intrusion.
#66
Nordschleife Master
9. All cars must be equipped with a metal firewall separating the driver compartment from any area exterior to the driver compartment below the level of the window bases (e.g., the engine compartment, the transmission compartment, the fuel tanks, exhausts, or just the ground under the car) capable of preventing the intrusion of fire, fluids, gasses, or debris into the driver compartment. All openings in the firewall, including those created by the allowed removal of stock components, must be closed with a metal cover mechanically fastened over the opening. Adhesives are not mechanical. The fuel sender opening in 924/944/968s must be covered with such a metal cover. Openings in firewalls for tubes and wires, if oversized, must be substantially closed with metal covers or commercial pass throughs, with any remaining small gaps and any holes no larger than 10 mm not closed with metal shall be plugged with high temperature sealants. Drain holes in the floor pan may be open when running in the rain.
Caymans may duct air from the quarter windows (where ducting from those windows is allowed) or from the passenger compartment to circular openings in the factory location in the far rear corners of the rear trunk for cooling of supplementary radiators or otherwise. Fans may be used to force air through these allowed openings.
Except as specified above, the requirement of metal does not apply to non-metallic parts which are stock, or to replacement of doors with composite doors where allowed by the class rules.
#67
Good find. Noting the last sentence:
The hatch that the bulkhead will attach to is plastic (non-metal) and there should not be any gaps greater than a few mm (let alone 10).
The hatch that the bulkhead will attach to is plastic (non-metal) and there should not be any gaps greater than a few mm (let alone 10).
#68
Nordschleife Master
If you add your piece to the existing hatch you may be ok. I was thinking you were replacing the plastic piece with the printed piece, in which case it may not pass tech. When I was building my SPB, I would email Walt with questions, he was great about responding (although he didn't always tell me what I wanted to hear!).
#72
Just secured the DIN mount switch panel using a few 3D printed mounting blocks and a carbon fiber single DIN filler panel.
completed job (upper panel)
3D printed filler panel mounting blocks for DIN opening
completed job (upper panel)
3D printed filler panel mounting blocks for DIN opening
#73
If you add your piece to the existing hatch you may be ok. I was thinking you were replacing the plastic piece with the printed piece, in which case it may not pass tech. When I was building my SPB, I would email Walt with questions, he was great about responding (although he didn't always tell me what I wanted to hear!).