Notices
Racing & Drivers Education Forum
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

have R7's changed? disturbing grooving

Old 10-01-2018, 04:57 AM
  #136  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,946
Received 141 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TRAKCAR


Thanks Matt.
Too bad another Kiborked thread wasting so much time reading drivel. Hope he goes on his meds soon.
Ive been doing it wrong trying to stay under 32 and that makes me start under 20 because I don’t want to stop and waste laps to get out and bleed down.
Starting to low contributes to overheating and the damage in OP pics perhaps.
I have had the same.
I can’t get 16 sessions out of the tires and they are completely cooked anyway from overheating once I get them 32+. Perhaps better to run higher and manage the tires better.

I plan to deal with the tires going off as opposed to give up the first 3 laps to get them up carefully.
Going out at 26 will make me come in on lap 4 to bring them back down to 32 and maybe I can run them higher because then they don’t overheat as much?







Peter, you might want to learn from that "drivel" where the faster guys are not having any issues with the tires started out at 23-24 psi and ending up in the 30-32psi range. you might want to start first with some driving lessons so you can better manage your tires on warm up. there is No "sacrifice" in warming up your tires in the correct way without damage. yes, if "manage" your tires works for 16 heat cycles, it also means that "manage" means going easy on the tires and running much slower. i can run 20-30 heat cycles if my pace is off 3-4 seconds a lap. bad for me, but great for some of my competitors as far as time.

no,you are NOT "overheating" your tires starting lower... that is some funny nonsense right there peter! what you are saying is that you are overdriving the tires, and if you dont overdrive them, they wont overheat. If this is your problem, then, this is true.

People Always mock what they dont understand. dont worry ,you are not alone "trackcar" gooof! if you are looking at where R7s and R6s are fastest, they are in the 30 to 32psi range, and this is from not only my testing but those that are running the track records in SCCA... ALL of them over the past 15 years..

go back to this post of one possible idea of why there could be a problem with the tires in specific use cases and reasons why. https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...l#post15322615

Last edited by mark kibort; 10-01-2018 at 02:18 PM.
Old 10-01-2018, 06:27 AM
  #137  
Mordeth
Intermediate
 
Mordeth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 42
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

As a reference point, I drive a C6 Z06 that is a NASA TT1/TTU car. Full aero, suspension etc.. I am normally on R7 or A7s. I haven't seen this wear pattern as shown from the OP, and I just got done with 3 full days at WGI with NASA on R7s. Tires were mounted and balanced on a Hunter Revolution machine with no issues.

As another reference point (which may not apply here and so I apologize as it is unrelated to Porsche): Us poor Vette guys do not run a Hoosier DOT to anywhere near 40psi+ and expect to be quick. They are greasy and slower at/above around 35 psi no matter what Hoosier says (as they say this to avoid complaints of poor tire wear and to reduce the risk of a product liability claim). A race tire need only survive a race and not multiple weekends of DE. Most of the Vette guys start out at 20-24psi cold and end up at 30-34psi hot (ideal) depending on conditions, location and other variables. So it is easily a 8-14psi rise in pressure over the course of a race, depending on many variables. Vette guys don't care whether optimal performance is at 20psi, 30psi or 40 psi. Just what is the quickest. And that number hot is 30-34psi (max) on a Hoosier DOT based on literally years and years and years and years and years of testing. The issue is well understood (at least for Vettes running 315/345 or 295/335 on a 3200lb car with full aero running sub 2:00 at the Glen as a reference).

I will now run these same R7s for DE with PCA at WGI for the next two days and I expect to be a few seconds off pace which is fine for DE, but they are good enough for another few days. And during DE I will start at 27psi for the first session and bleed down throughout the day to keep temps around 34psi max hot.
Old 10-01-2018, 12:43 PM
  #138  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,946
Received 141 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Mordeth
As a reference point, I drive a C6 Z06 that is a NASA TT1/TTU car. Full aero, suspension etc.. I am normally on R7 or A7s. I haven't seen this wear pattern as shown from the OP, and I just got done with 3 full days at WGI with NASA on R7s. Tires were mounted and balanced on a Hunter Revolution machine with no issues.

As another reference point (which may not apply here and so I apologize as it is unrelated to Porsche): Us poor Vette guys do not run a Hoosier DOT to anywhere near 40psi+ and expect to be quick. They are greasy and slower at/above around 35 psi no matter what Hoosier says (as they say this to avoid complaints of poor tire wear and to reduce the risk of a product liability claim). A race tire need only survive a race and not multiple weekends of DE. Most of the Vette guys start out at 20-24psi cold and end up at 30-34psi hot (ideal) depending on conditions, location and other variables. So it is easily a 8-14psi rise in pressure over the course of a race, depending on many variables. Vette guys don't care whether optimal performance is at 20psi, 30psi or 40 psi. Just what is the quickest. And that number hot is 30-34psi (max) on a Hoosier DOT based on literally years and years and years and years and years of testing. The issue is well understood (at least for Vettes running 315/345 or 295/335 on a 3200lb car with full aero running sub 2:00 at the Glen as a reference).

I will now run these same R7s for DE with PCA at WGI for the next two days and I expect to be a few seconds off pace which is fine for DE, but they are good enough for another few days. And during DE I will start at 27psi for the first session and bleed down throughout the day to keep temps around 34psi max hot.
GREAT post and dead nuts right ON! For those that think this is a who's right and who's wrong competition, its not. its a discussion. the OP talks about the R7 and weird wear patterns, and we all *(you and others) have talked about our experiences as data points. many good points here. made for those that run these sizes (295-315) for reasons besides manufacture defects for the splitting or wear patterns.
low pressure and running too hard or incorrectly in warm up could be one. but you are exactly right. the guys here running the fastest are running lower pressures than recommended. If you want to run 25-50 heat cycles at 44psi, have fun. I don't think anyone would think you would ever be close to the fastest (all other things being equal) But i can assure you , all the racers in the top 15 in any class running these tires at the runoffs, will be running pressures you have experience running and no one gets more than( 7-10 heat cycles ) and expects top performance because they are 1-2 seconds off at that point.
Old 10-01-2018, 11:15 PM
  #139  
fatbillybob
Drifting
 
fatbillybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,085
Received 128 Likes on 83 Posts
Default

Mark,

The Porsche clan is fast enough following Hoosier guidelines and recommended engineered hot pressures. Please leave them alone.
Old 10-03-2018, 05:07 PM
  #140  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,946
Received 141 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by fatbillybob
Mark,

The Porsche clan is fast enough following Hoosier guidelines and recommended engineered hot pressures. Please leave them alone.
I know huh!!! as YOU know, im only talking to the OP and the tires and sizes that YOU , and my "clan" use.... look forward to seeing you at the runoffs... DONT forget to get some good video!
Old 10-03-2018, 10:21 PM
  #141  
fatbillybob
Drifting
 
fatbillybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,085
Received 128 Likes on 83 Posts
Default

I'm in garage G-14 and plan to make the trackwalk on Monday. See you there.
Old 01-19-2019, 09:45 AM
  #142  
Earlierapex
Three Wheelin'
 
Earlierapex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 1,943
Received 119 Likes on 57 Posts
Default

Same thing happened on my 991 GT3. Severe delamination type wear on inner rear tire edge, I’m assuming it’s RWS toe-in related, but it sounds like there’s maybe something wrong with their QC.


https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...ge-wear-2.html
Old 01-20-2019, 10:47 AM
  #143  
TRAKCAR
Rennlist Member
 
TRAKCAR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 29,336
Received 1,585 Likes on 733 Posts
Default

I’ve given up on Hoosiers.
Old 01-21-2019, 03:57 PM
  #144  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,946
Received 141 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I’ve given up on Hoosiers.
the A's having this same issue? I haven't seen any on the last two sets ive run, nor 7 other cars (mustangs) running the R7s in the top competitions
Old 01-21-2019, 06:43 PM
  #145  
fatbillybob
Drifting
 
fatbillybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,085
Received 128 Likes on 83 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mark kibort
the A's having this same issue? I haven't seen any on the last two sets ive run, nor 7 other cars (mustangs) running the R7s in the top competitions
Something has changed. I'm +2 psi from where I was 6 months ago. I have run A7's since before they were A6's exactly the same way ran the A6's. I started with hoosier when they were the S04's. I had a real bad time running at Sonoma Runoffs on new HooHoos. I ran 2 races T2 & T1 same car and barely got through race with zero tire wear and gobs of pick-up like I was running off line. Center bead of casting flash was still there after entire races. I could have bicycled a faster laptime. 2 new sets 2 different days 2 different races same car and weight just restrictor change. Same build code on tires later 2018. Old set scrubs, early 2018, I ran practice and 1 qualy were faster than the new tires. I never had tires act like this before. My guess was I did not get enough heat in tire. I ran sonoma tires +2 psi at Homestead miami and +2 psi same set at Sebring last week and tires came to life with normal wear and good pyrometer readings. Darn now I got to break out the pyrometer and gather data to dial in this new compound. I really think they have changed something.
Old 01-21-2019, 09:10 PM
  #146  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,946
Received 141 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by fatbillybob
Something has changed. I'm +2 psi from where I was 6 months ago. I have run A7's since before they were A6's exactly the same way ran the A6's. I started with hoosier when they were the S04's. I had a real bad time running at Sonoma Runoffs on new HooHoos. I ran 2 races T2 & T1 same car and barely got through race with zero tire wear and gobs of pick-up like I was running off line. Center bead of casting flash was still there after entire races. I could have bicycled a faster laptime. 2 new sets 2 different days 2 different races same car and weight just restrictor change. Same build code on tires later 2018. Old set scrubs, early 2018, I ran practice and 1 qualy were faster than the new tires. I never had tires act like this before. My guess was I did not get enough heat in tire. I ran sonoma tires +2 psi at Homestead miami and +2 psi same set at Sebring last week and tires came to life with normal wear and good pyrometer readings. Darn now I got to break out the pyrometer and gather data to dial in this new compound. I really think they have changed something.
I had a crappier car, and had tires that were clean and sticky with no asymmetrical wear patterns. (and running quite a bit faster times). I was running 32psi hot btw. you need to get more data. Pyrometer data and starting. ending pressures as well as set up camber/toe might help figure out what you have. I had made all sorts of changes that I couldn't test before the first session and had some sidewall wear (too high of ride hight, reduced camber as well as bump camber) lowered the car by .5 "which increased camber and mostly camber under compression...… .(I.e. carocel) and I flipped the tires on the rims and the problem went away. one thing we all DO know is that R compound tires will show suspension setting issues very very quickly.



Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: have R7's changed? disturbing grooving



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:27 AM.