have R7's changed? disturbing grooving
#31
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#32
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the confirmation. I talked to a couple other people who've seen this, but did not know if it was an oddity or the norm for recently made Hoosiers. I think it's becoming the norm and it's making me think about switching to Pirelli's till I don't hear about it anymore. I've run 3 pair like this till they were done and there are 2 pair on the car, same patterns, but I have to say, it makes me trash them earlier than I normally would and it does linger in the back of my mind while on track. As they get closer to done, it really does seem like the tread wants to come off the carcass and I did that last year going into the bus stop at Watkins. I got off easy in that one, body damage, but I was fine, certainly not really interested in doing that again.
#33
Rennlist Member
I can ABSOLUTELY assure you that fender interference is not a factor. and I get grooves and cracks on all 8 tire edges and am certainly not having interference on all 8 tire edges.
I agree with you that the tires should be worn up to the edge of the sidewall writing. if you notice it is worn that far in the pictures of the tires that are "done." the picture you marked up shows an edge that was an interior edge and had just been flipped on rim, but has not been run yet. so that's a crack that opened on the first heat cycle and will become grooves once it's run on the outside edge.
as for pressures. for the first heat cycle of the day, I leave the pits at 30 cold. for all remaining, I run 30 hot. as for overpressure, hoosier recommends more like 36-38 depending upon track. most of the corvette community run 28 hot, but since my blow out last year, I've been running a little more pressure (30 hot) because it's closer to what hoosier wants me to run, so I figure it gives me 2 psi of insurance against what I had when I ran 28 hot.
I agree with you that the tires should be worn up to the edge of the sidewall writing. if you notice it is worn that far in the pictures of the tires that are "done." the picture you marked up shows an edge that was an interior edge and had just been flipped on rim, but has not been run yet. so that's a crack that opened on the first heat cycle and will become grooves once it's run on the outside edge.
as for pressures. for the first heat cycle of the day, I leave the pits at 30 cold. for all remaining, I run 30 hot. as for overpressure, hoosier recommends more like 36-38 depending upon track. most of the corvette community run 28 hot, but since my blow out last year, I've been running a little more pressure (30 hot) because it's closer to what hoosier wants me to run, so I figure it gives me 2 psi of insurance against what I had when I ran 28 hot.
#34
Rennlist Member
have you tried the A6s (EDIT CORRECTION FOR MATT.... I meant to type, "A7"s ) sorry! ... they might be slightly faster, and seem to heat cycle out before they actually wear out. dont know the difference in the construction but a great number of us are NOT seeing this kind of failure on tires being used on cars as heavy and configured similar to our cars...
Last edited by mark kibort; 09-17-2018 at 01:10 PM.
#35
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have you tried the A6s... they might be slightly faster, and seem to heat cycle out before they actually wear out. dont know the difference in the construction but a great number of us are NOT seeing this kind of failure on tires being used on cars as heavy and configured similar to our cars...
#36
Rennlist Member
Guess its time to post the link to Hoosier's tech note on how to car for A7 and R7 tires ---> http://www.hoosiertire.com/images/co...s/TCTR7_A7.pdf
The highlights -
The highlights -
- Cars over 3000 pounds should run 36-40+ hot. Hoosier states the tire may 'feel' better at lower pressure but damage is occurring to the tire.
- Morning temps below 60F require even more pressure than the stated cold pressure's
- Never lower the tire back down to the cold pressure's. For a 3000+ car they should START at 30-34
#37
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#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
Guess its time to post the link to Hoosier's tech note on how to car for A7 and R7 tires ---> http://www.hoosiertire.com/images/co...s/TCTR7_A7.pdf
The highlights -
The highlights -
- Cars over 3000 pounds should run 36-40+ hot. Hoosier states the tire may 'feel' better at lower pressure but damage is occurring to the tire.
- Morning temps below 60F require even more pressure than the stated cold pressure's
- Never lower the tire back down to the cold pressure's. For a 3000+ car they should START at 30-34
I've never asked Hoosier to pick up the tab for anything.
the point of the thread is that I have noticed that every tire I've gotten with a build date later than mid-2017 has exhibited a strange and a little disturbing groove pattern on the inner and outer edge of the tires (front and back). In my case, I've run the tires to completion without them blowing apart, but I've not seen that patterning in previous years and it's a little disconcerting. so I was looking to see if others are seeing it also. my guess is that Hoosier changed something in the manufacturing process and if it continues, I will likely switch brands for a while. Just looking for feedback from others running Hoosiers.
#39
Wrong.
Wrong.
...and probably wrong.
Mark have you actually run any 2018 spring/summer production R7s?
I have a stack of tires run at various tracks (friction) with careful attention to pressures and alignment (often daily). Most are showing varying degrees of the same issue, consistent with the OP's experience.
Wrong.
...and probably wrong.
Mark have you actually run any 2018 spring/summer production R7s?
I have a stack of tires run at various tracks (friction) with careful attention to pressures and alignment (often daily). Most are showing varying degrees of the same issue, consistent with the OP's experience.
#40
Rennlist Member
since I started the thread, I'll be clear. Thanks for the info. I get what Hoosier says and I acknowledge that there's a big difference between what Hoosier "recommends" and what the majority of their users do in terms of pressures they run. (I've actually had friends talk to Hoosier engineers at the track and question them on their printed pressures and those engineers have essentially said they quote them high for CYA and to increase tread longevity.)
I've never asked Hoosier to pick up the tab for anything.
the point of the thread is that I have noticed that every tire I've gotten with a build date later than mid-2017 has exhibited a strange and a little disturbing groove pattern on the inner and outer edge of the tires (front and back). In my case, I've run the tires to completion without them blowing apart, but I've not seen that patterning in previous years and it's a little disconcerting. so I was looking to see if others are seeing it also. my guess is that Hoosier changed something in the manufacturing process and if it continues, I will likely switch brands for a while. Just looking for feedback from others running Hoosiers.
I've never asked Hoosier to pick up the tab for anything.
the point of the thread is that I have noticed that every tire I've gotten with a build date later than mid-2017 has exhibited a strange and a little disturbing groove pattern on the inner and outer edge of the tires (front and back). In my case, I've run the tires to completion without them blowing apart, but I've not seen that patterning in previous years and it's a little disconcerting. so I was looking to see if others are seeing it also. my guess is that Hoosier changed something in the manufacturing process and if it continues, I will likely switch brands for a while. Just looking for feedback from others running Hoosiers.
So, to add to your data point, I have 5 cars running Hoosiers that are fast enough drivers to use the tire and not experience this issue in about 30 sets of tires this year so far. of the 3 that choose to do their own thing, they have had 5-8 tire failure's.
#41
My post was not directed at anyone person, but rather anyone using lower pressure's than what is recommended. I use the recommended pressure's, always have. I personally don't see these issue's and neither do my customers that run the correct pressure's. I have customers that choose not to use the correct pressure's and constantly see issues with their tires, just like these issue's here and other issue's. The moral of the story is, use as intended to get intended results. Anything other than that is liable to fail as you and others have experienced.
So, to add to your data point, I have 5 cars running Hoosiers that are fast enough drivers to use the tire and not experience this issue in about 30 sets of tires this year so far. of the 3 that choose to do their own thing, they have had 5-8 tire failure's.
So, to add to your data point, I have 5 cars running Hoosiers that are fast enough drivers to use the tire and not experience this issue in about 30 sets of tires this year so far. of the 3 that choose to do their own thing, they have had 5-8 tire failure's.
#42
Rennlist Member
So I've never had a failure and I've never changed my starting pressures or hot pressures but this behavior is new to the point I asked my guys to check for a rub as well... That's what it looks like but its almost like there is a seam there for the sidewall... Like they started gluing the sidewalls on differently.
#43
I'll try my next set at 30 cold but shooting for 36-38 hot in a 3150 pound car at places like VIR and NJMP means 30 cold is really tough. Anything above 38 in my car and the rear end is all over the place and 30 cold brings me in at 44 hot by the end of a Sprint race... By the second or 3rd session we are 28 cold 36 hot.
I'll totally admit we are well below 30 cold on mine so cold tearing is possible but will also say it hasn't affected the longevity or cycles on any of my sets either. It's just something we noticed but ignore.
I'll totally admit we are well below 30 cold on mine so cold tearing is possible but will also say it hasn't affected the longevity or cycles on any of my sets either. It's just something we noticed but ignore.
#44
Instructor
Thread Starter
So I've never had a failure and I've never changed my starting pressures or hot pressures but this behavior is new to the point I asked my guys to check for a rub as well... That's what it looks like but its almost like there is a seam there for the sidewall... Like they started gluing the sidewalls on differently.
And to MMuller's point - THAT'S GREAT DATA! he's saying that he's seeing people who run them at high pressures and they don't see these issues. then he has a minority running low pressures and they are having problems. that's actually great data. maybe Hoosier made a changes such that the tire can NO LONGER tolerate low pressure running.
I set out to see if my experience (RECENT Hoosiers are behaving differently) was unique to me or more wide spread. from this thread and threads in other communities, it seems the tires are behaving differently. so until that changes, I have a decision to make.
#45
Rennlist Member
My post was not directed at anyone person, but rather anyone using lower pressure's than what is recommended. I use the recommended pressure's, always have. I personally don't see these issue's and neither do my customers that run the correct pressure's. I have customers that choose not to use the correct pressure's and constantly see issues with their tires, just like these issue's here and other issue's. The moral of the story is, use as intended to get intended results. Anything other than that is liable to fail as you and others have experienced.
So, to add to your data point, I have 5 cars running Hoosiers that are fast enough drivers to use the tire and not experience this issue in about 30 sets of tires this year so far. of the 3 that choose to do their own thing, they have had 5-8 tire failure's.
So, to add to your data point, I have 5 cars running Hoosiers that are fast enough drivers to use the tire and not experience this issue in about 30 sets of tires this year so far. of the 3 that choose to do their own thing, they have had 5-8 tire failure's.