Isolated Change of Camber at Trackside with Longacre?
#17
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I ended up buying a Longacre camber gauge and toe plates and have been playing around changing things back and forth on the car today to simulate a trackside change.
The camber gauge seems fairly accurate as it consistently shows 0.9 positive in the rear and Speedsport usually sets 0.8.
I'm seeing a rear toe in of 2mm which is exactly where it was set this season.
I did find a level spot in my barn to play around with but the gauge does allow you to 'zero' any camber the floor might have. Pretty neat.
The camber gauge seems fairly accurate as it consistently shows 0.9 positive in the rear and Speedsport usually sets 0.8.
I'm seeing a rear toe in of 2mm which is exactly where it was set this season.
I did find a level spot in my barn to play around with but the gauge does allow you to 'zero' any camber the floor might have. Pretty neat.
#18
Instructor
If you want a level area for each wheel, buy a box of vinyl floor tiles and a laser level. Pick your alignment area in the shop/ barn. Mark each tire location on the floor and move the car out of the way. Find the high corner, put down a tile. Go to the next corner and using the laser on the 1st tile, add tiles to the 2nd corner until it is level with the first. Repeat for the 3rd and 4th corners. Mark those corners with duct tape boxes around the tiles and write down how many tiles in each corner. Put tiles back in the cardboard box for safe keeping unless aligning the car.
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
None of them do allow what you are asking.
If you want a level area for each wheel, buy a box of vinyl floor tiles and a laser level. Pick your alignment area in the shop/ barn. Mark each tire location on the floor and move the car out of the way. Find the high corner, put down a tile. Go to the next corner and using the laser on the 1st tile, add tiles to the 2nd corner until it is level with the first. Repeat for the 3rd and 4th corners. Mark those corners with duct tape boxes around the tiles and write down how many tiles in each corner. Put tiles back in the cardboard box for safe keeping unless aligning the car.
If you want a level area for each wheel, buy a box of vinyl floor tiles and a laser level. Pick your alignment area in the shop/ barn. Mark each tire location on the floor and move the car out of the way. Find the high corner, put down a tile. Go to the next corner and using the laser on the 1st tile, add tiles to the 2nd corner until it is level with the first. Repeat for the 3rd and 4th corners. Mark those corners with duct tape boxes around the tiles and write down how many tiles in each corner. Put tiles back in the cardboard box for safe keeping unless aligning the car.
I am going to compare a Hoosier to my current Goodyears and the Hoosiers require 0.5 more negative camber. In principle my toe should not change much with the camber adjustment according to my FM guru due to the unusual suspension geometry setup. We'll see!
#20
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Thread Starter
I thought I would give some follow up. And again thanks to everyone who chimed in.
I was having trouble reliably reproducing my toe measurements with toe plates so I bought a Longacre toe gauge (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-79620) and a tire scribe which works super well to give really accurate total toe measurements. As it turns out with my suspension geometry, the toe does NOT change at all with a 0.5 degree camber change. I premarked my camber bolts and using my gauge was able to confirm a change of 0.5 trackside at WGI. So I was able to run a Goodyear 255 and a Hoosier R35 in the same day.
The Hoosier has a stiffer sidewall so I'll need to soften up the front compression to continue testing the tire against GY. I had identical best times with the GY and Hoosier but the Hoosier showed remarkably less wear. I'll need to sift through my data but I have a feeling that the max grip in turns was very similar and the braking was not much different.
I plan on running the tire comparison again at WGI and also at MMC to figure out which was I should go next year.
And for those wondering,....yes, I am going to learn to string this winter. I've already ordered special alignment bars for my formula frame and will ask Santa for Smart Strings.
I was having trouble reliably reproducing my toe measurements with toe plates so I bought a Longacre toe gauge (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-79620) and a tire scribe which works super well to give really accurate total toe measurements. As it turns out with my suspension geometry, the toe does NOT change at all with a 0.5 degree camber change. I premarked my camber bolts and using my gauge was able to confirm a change of 0.5 trackside at WGI. So I was able to run a Goodyear 255 and a Hoosier R35 in the same day.
The Hoosier has a stiffer sidewall so I'll need to soften up the front compression to continue testing the tire against GY. I had identical best times with the GY and Hoosier but the Hoosier showed remarkably less wear. I'll need to sift through my data but I have a feeling that the max grip in turns was very similar and the braking was not much different.
I plan on running the tire comparison again at WGI and also at MMC to figure out which was I should go next year.
And for those wondering,....yes, I am going to learn to string this winter. I've already ordered special alignment bars for my formula frame and will ask Santa for Smart Strings.
#21
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#24
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#25
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If you ordered string bars for the FM, then you don't need Smart Strings too. I assume you bought something like the MK setup http://www.mktechnologies.com/produc...g_toe_bars.htm You also want his "string rectractor replacement" It's a tape measure with the tape replaced with a string. No more ***** of knots!
#26
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#28
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