gbuff

Recently bought a Kobalt for $60 from Lowe's--feels like real quality compared to all the Crapsman junk I've had......using it right now at the Glen GORGEOUS weather for once

Gary

STLPCA

Another vote for CDI. Top of the line quality and workmanship at a reasonable price. I learned long ago to buy good tools - last a lifetime, usually work better and easier and just feel good in your hand.

About 10 years ago I bought a used Proto torque wrench to keep in my track box. I think I paid about $20 and figured if it got lost/stolen who cares. I set it at 96 ft/lbs where its stayed all these years. I periodically check it against my CDI. Amazingly, it's stayed accurate.

tinkerbill

+1
I agree with the recommendation for the Precision Split Beam torque wrench. Good price(~$150), made in the USA and excellent range of torque capabilities (40-250 ft-lb).
You buy this 1/2 drive tool and its little brother 3/8" version and you have covered the vast majority of fastener torques on any vehicle including lug nuts.

TXE36

+1. I've been very satisfied with my HF wrenches - I have all three 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". On sale, about $10-15. Certainly good enough for checking lug torque for all but centerlocks. I even use mine for engine work. I've tested them by comparing with some very expensive torque wrenches and accuracy has never been an issue. The cost makes it a non-worry item to leave out and loan out on the paddock.

I do like beam wrenches when I'm concerned about torque building up as they make it easy to see.

-Mike

GSXR750

Wild Weasel

Are split beam torque wrenches a fairly recent invention?

I'd never heard of them until looking into getting one for my center locks. Been using click types (and unwinding them after each use) for 20 years and never knew there was a better option!

Now I kinda want new split beam ones in the smaller sizes as they're way more convenient.

HenryPcar

I don't know why they call it split-beam which is totally misleading. They are electronic instead of the old torsion bar beam type which were mechanical.
I have 3 Snap-On Techangles from 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" covering all fasteners on my 997. Plus it has angle value for the final toque down on head jobs which some application requires. Also another advantage besides not having to reset it back to zero after usage is the ability to use on reverse threaded fasteners. Some people, carry over from the old click type strongly advice not to use it for reverse thread, but after asking Snap On on this issue, they told me the electronic ones can be used on counter-clockwise bolts provided it does not exceed the wrench spec. Yes you do need reverse torque setting on some jobs. Some crankcase bolts, transmission drive train bolts etc require reverse threading to tighten it down. Your center lock is a different issue due to the high values and the use of cheater to achieve the high toque necessary. I'm not too sure if the center-lock hubs require reverse threading though.

Wild Weasel

Firstly, I'd have never thought twice about using a torque wrench for reverse threads if the need ever arose... which it hasn't. I know you don't use them as breaker bars... but they've all got a reverse setting on the ratchet (the precision one you just turn the head around I think) so there doesn't seem to be any reason they wouldn't work for that.

Now... I wasn't talking about digital ones. I was referring to the split beam ones like the Precision Instruments one that most people use for center locks. I mean... it still clicks... but it works differently. When people say "click wrench" they're generally referring to the ones where you set the torque by twisting the handle until you line up the appropriate marks. The split beam ones have a little dial on them that is really easy to set and you don't need to "unwind" it after. It's just way more convenient.

max pl

Whats a good way to check calibration on one? Bring it to a dealer and ask a service tech?

jayzbird

JGB

GSXR750

GSXR750