fatbillybob

Agree with Mark. You certainly can think the answer is pads when new pads really help disguise other problems like Matt posted about. Pads and brake fluid are obvious low hanging fruit to solve problems. Sometimes you add in ducting and good things happen.

gbuff

+1

Tried Hawk HT10s years back in a BMW and found them chunking with about 2/3 worn--went to Ctechs and very happy.

Gary

Gofishracing

ExMB - my back plates on PFC 08's are greater than 5- on 0776 0817 44 . None of mine less that 5.35 to 5.53.- Not all the same thickness out of the box new. Interesting. So some pads have more material than others

obsessedone

This may be true to a degree but the pad not only provides the friction for braking, it also acts as an insulator helping reduce heat transfer to the pistons. The thinner the pad, the more heat gets transferred through the backing plate to the pistons, increasing the risk of boiling your brake fluid causing soft or long pedal or in bad cases seal failure. As a result, Peter's previously mentioned "when the pad thickness is same or less than backing plate is a good answer - sure it will keep braking no problem in street driving - but with aggressive track or race driving you risk problems. Further, before an Enduro I prefer to go to new pads for the extra insulation of the thicker pad, and "finish up" the old pads in sprints or DE. I cooked the LF caliper seals in an Enduro a few years ago - driver's side of car was covered in brake fluid and reservoir was all but empty at end of race - a few more laps and I wouldn't have had brakes... Better safe than sorry.