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How do you check center lock torque before track event?

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Old 02-08-2018, 12:24 PM
  #31  
Wild Weasel
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Originally Posted by mmuller
THIS is the Answer
Yep. Amidst all the meandering discussion going on here, that's the impression I'm getting. Thanks for confirming!
Old 02-08-2018, 12:34 PM
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DTMiller
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Pretty soon someone will suggest buying a Miata.
Old 02-08-2018, 12:38 PM
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zedcat
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Originally Posted by Wild Weasel
Yep. Amidst all the meandering discussion going on here, that's the impression I'm getting. Thanks for confirming!
Post #2.
Old 02-08-2018, 12:41 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by zedcat
No, check the torque per the spec with the wheels unloaded. Always.

Jack up each side, helper (or clamp) to hold the brake, torque to spec, loosen 1/4 turn, torque to spec, check that lock pins are fully engaged.
Originally Posted by zedcat
Post #2.
To be fair, you started off with "check the torque..."

You're not checking it. You're re-setting it. I know it's a nit picking but that's how we end up with 3 pages of replies.

So the simple answer is: You cannot check. You have to re-do if you want to be sure.

There's still the question of "If you were sure before... are you still sure??"

Some are saying they can back off. Some are saying they can't. MORTAL KOMBAT!!!!
Old 02-08-2018, 02:14 PM
  #35  
CharleyH
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If anyone needs a great torque wrench for center lock wheels I am selling my Proto 6020AB 3/4” torque wrench with a range of 90 to 600 ft lbs. it is in excellent condition. $400 plus shipping. Check out this link to my add.

Charley

https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...l#post14786842


Last edited by CharleyH; 02-08-2018 at 03:01 PM.
Old 02-08-2018, 02:44 PM
  #36  
Wild Weasel
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Originally Posted by CharleyH
If anyone needs a great torque wrench for center lock wheels I am selling my Proto 6020AB 3/4” torque wrench with a range of 90 to 600 ft lbs. it is in excellent condition. $400 plus shipping. Check out this link to my add.


Edited to be nice because the giant pics are gone. Good luck with the sale.


Last edited by Wild Weasel; 02-08-2018 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Good Karma
Old 02-08-2018, 03:00 PM
  #37  
CharleyH
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Originally Posted by Wild Weasel
Thanks for spamming my thread with giant pictures.

Just for that, I'll mention that the torque wrench you're selling seems inferior and far less practical than the one everyone buys from Precision Instruments. The Precision Instruments breaks down to fit in a case that isn't nearly 4 feet long and doesn't need to be wound down to zero torque and then wound back up every time you use it.

But good luck with the sale.
Wow, aren’t you special. I was trying to be helpful to people that might benefit from a tool I no longer need. I would be happy to remove the pictures.

.... you might want to do a little research before you make uninformed comments about quality.

Last edited by CharleyH; 02-08-2018 at 03:56 PM.
Old 02-08-2018, 03:46 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by zedcat
It's in the manual. Do not use an impact wrench. This is for Porsche street car centerlocks. I've never seen anyone use an impact wrench on them.
maybe porsche club guys follow the rules. Ferrari guys don't , nor do any of those guys you see on TV.
Old 02-08-2018, 04:06 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by CharleyH
.... you might want to do a little research before you make uninformed comments about quality.
Thanks for removing the pics.

Note that I didn't question the quality. Just the convenience.
Old 02-08-2018, 06:13 PM
  #40  
991carreradriver
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I have to agree with Matt. First, the 991 CL's are not the same as the 997. They are not compatible and use different torque values. I don't see how a wheel can change torque if the locking mechanism is properly engaged, essentially prohibiting the CL from loosening. I would and will (car is new to me for the DE season) pull the wheel caps prior to event to check that the locks are properly seated. Beyond that, no further torquing for me, its not worth the risk of hernia or back spasms.

Last edited by 991carreradriver; 02-08-2018 at 07:52 PM.
Old 02-08-2018, 06:30 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 991carreradriver
I, no further torquing for me, its not worth the risk of hernia or back spasms.
Why is there more confidence in a single CL over 5 lugs that are routinely checked by just about every conscientious driver? Not challenging just learning...
Old 02-08-2018, 06:40 PM
  #42  
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Pulling the caps to make sure the locks are stil ‘locked’ is a good practice. Just make sure you replace the caps prior to going on track, or even driving at all. The Centerlock system is design to be a sealed system. Without the caps, dirt and grit gets in and excessively wears the components causing slop and play. Every event I go to, I see Centerlock cars running without caps.

Although, the worst thing I ever saw was someone using anti seize paste instead of Optimol grease. The driver told me because they are both silver they are the same type of grease. Definitely not.
Old 02-08-2018, 07:50 PM
  #43  
991carreradriver
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
Why is there more confidence in a single CL over 5 lugs that are routinely checked by just about every conscientious driver? Not challenging just learning...
I have seen three cars shear 5 lug systems in the last three seasons (all name brands). I do about 5-6 event per year. I have not seen one CL failure, though I have met drivers that have seen an incident on a pre 991 series. I think Matt M may have seen one as well, but was not referring to him.
I am not fan of the CL as it is a royal PIA to deal with, but "it is what it is". One can always opt to go after market to install the 5 lug system and be done with it. Other than having the luxury of a 19" setup, I am not convinced it is safer. The CL does boast a big unsprung weight reduction, I am not good enough to ever see the difference.
Old 02-09-2018, 08:41 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
Why is there more confidence in a single CL over 5 lugs that are routinely checked by just about every conscientious driver? Not challenging just learning...
What are you talking about? Are you asking why we might be confident that a CL nut won't back off but not confident that lug nuts or bolts won't?

That's what this discussion is about. Being confident. If the CL nut has a mechanism that literally locks it in place and prevents it from backing off, that seems like a pretty tangible difference between the two, doesn't it?

Originally Posted by mmuller
Although, the worst thing I ever saw was someone using anti seize paste instead of Optimol grease. The driver told me because they are both silver they are the same type of grease. Definitely not.
Same argument can be made for scotch and fresh engine oil, can't it?

Originally Posted by 991carreradriver
I have seen three cars shear 5 lug systems in the last three seasons (all name brands).
Lug nuts can easily be over-tightened leading to failure.

Originally Posted by 991carreradriver
One can always opt to go after market to install the 5 lug system and be done with it. Other than having the luxury of a 19" setup, I am not convinced it is safer. The CL does boast a big unsprung weight reduction, I am not good enough to ever see the difference.
I'm not aware of any such aftermarket conversion kit. Can you post a link?

I don't think anyone is suggesting that one system is safer than the other if they're properly used. It's just that center locks are a giant PITA to deal with and offer no advantages for the hassle (other than looking pretty).

As far as I'm aware, there is NO weight savings on the center locks.
Old 02-09-2018, 09:25 AM
  #45  
991carreradriver
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Originally Posted by Wild Weasel
What are you talking about? Are you asking why we might be confident that a CL nut won't back off but not confident that lug nuts or bolts won't?

That's what this discussion is about. Being confident. If the CL nut has a mechanism that literally locks it in place and prevents it from backing off, that seems like a pretty tangible difference between the two, doesn't it?



Same argument can be made for scotch and fresh engine oil, can't it?



Lug nuts can easily be over-tightened leading to failure.



I'm not aware of any such aftermarket conversion kit. Can you post a link?

As far as I'm aware, there is NO weight savings on the center locks.
Suncoast sells a 5 lug to CL conversion for about $1800. I assume the parts being converted can go the other way. I have seen numerous conversions at the track. Since I am not interested in the conversion, I have not done the necessary research. It can and has been done. The GTS can be spec'd with or without CL's, thereby providing the parts.

Porsche has long publicly stated that there is unsprung weight reduction due to the CL design. for example in the GT2 RS, the published report in Excellence this month states that it is 24 lbs.


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