GPA951s

You know your a Racer if: You buy a new house not because the family is getting bigger, but you require a larger yard to park your race trailer.

Brian C in Az

Are you going to haul 2 cars at the same time? Or were you simply stating that you have 2 cars that need to be trailered at different times?

All steel enclosed trailers have aluminum siding and roof, only the trailer frame and the interior studs are steel, so rust should not be an issue. A proper undercoating will adequately protect your steel frame.

dogger15

Yes.

Here are a couple of spec sheets from InTech trailers comparing a 28' gooseneck (smallest size available in a gooseneck) to a 28' tag:





Looking at the two, notice the overall length of the gooseneck is pretty much the same as the size listed. Also notice you only have 19'3" of length for your car. The rest is upper deck or bunk area.

By comparison, the overall length for the tag is a bit over 32' (28' + 4' for the A frame (tongue), but the useable length for your car is still 28'.

Like I posted earlier, to get 24' of useable length for your car in a gooseneck, you would need a 32'.

Another spec to keep in mind is the trailer's GVWR. Pay attention to the max loaded weight limit (GVWR) of any trailer you are considering. For instance a steely 24' tag with 3500 lb axles has a GVWR of 7700 lbs and a empty weight of 4600 lbs. That leaves you just 3100 lbs for car and gear. To make sure you avoid a low load limit like this, make sure the trailer has at least 5200 lb axles.

GetBoosted

Oh not two at once... just two different cars depending on the track & event. I just know from talking to some miata guys, they say go w/ a tiny trailer for the car which is not what I want since I need to tow the turbo as well for certain events so I just wanted to give all the context necessary.

That's a good point regarding the steel frame. With a decent undercoating that would be a really great fit as well. Thanks for calling that out.

Gotcha. Yeah definitely lose some floor space with the gooseneck but you get better towing & maneuverability so it's a trade off for sure.

If you had to pick between the two, would you select more floor space or easier towing/maneuverability? I'm leaning towards the latter but I'm curious to know your two cents.

That's a great point regarding the weight. That is certainly something I'm keeping in the back of my head w/ the trailer purchase because I don't want to risk overloading a trailer. That's a recipe for disaster.

dogger15

I did have to pick between the two. Before I ordered my Sierra a friend of mine that has a commercial diving business invited me to test drive his older Sierra (2012), while pulling both kinds of trailers. This was a big benefit because most people don't get the opportunity to do an A/B comparison on something like that. The test drives didn't result in a clear favorite, both had qualities I liked. So the clincher came down to other reasons.

I knew I wanted a trailer that was fully equipped with built in drawers, workbench, wardrobe, tire racks, generator and fuel tank for the generator. I also needed enough space to store spare parts, two spare trailer tires, pit cart, compressor, Nitrogen and a pit scooter. That left me needing a minimum of 26' of floor space. So my choice was a 26' tag or a 34' gooseneck. I knew I was going to go with an ATC and I wanted the CH405 series for the Aluminum floor. The tag had an estimated curb weight of 3800 lbs and the gooseneck had an estimated curb weight of 5800 lbs. Also, because I don't have a long bed truck, I would need a tapered nose gooseneck to keep my rear glass intact during tight turns. The tapered nose left me with 8'8" of wedge shape, 2' tall for storage.

I opted for the lighter (2000 lbs), less expensive (by $10,000), tag and never looked back. My trailer weighs in around 10,000 lbs fully loaded and my Sierra handles it without any drama. I don't need any weight distribution or stabilization hitches at 1500 lbs of tongue weight. My truck comes with a slew of sway and stabilization features that work off of built in gyros and the ABS. If the truck senses any craziness from the trailer, it will apply the trailer brakes to the appropriate side to counter. I also equipped my truck with auto leveling rear air suspension that functions to maintain the stock ride height regardless of the weight.

Maybe a gooseneck is better behaved in some instances, but I haven't found enough objectionable behavior (pretty much none), from my tag to offset the extra weight and cost.

My two cents on that.

The irony of all of this is I'm pitting out of a shop now.

ExMB

This does not not make any sense. The 7 pin plug only has 1 wire for the electric trailer brakes. Therefore it cannot choose a side.

dogger15

Don't know about pin configurations, but GM claims the sway control is an integral part of their stabilitrak system that utilizes the truck's ABS, some gyros and even the ECM (to reduce power if necessary), to correct trailer sway conditions. I haven't had the pleasure of experiencing any sway problems since my trailer has always been very well behaved, but it's good to know it's there if I need it.

Here's a link to a video I found on the GMC website describing some of the features. After you click on the link, scroll down to the trailering and hauling video and click play:

http://www.gmc.com/previous-year/sie...kup-truck.html

ExMB

What it says in the video and what it flashes in regards to the brakes are 2 different things. The plug only has 1 brake wire and controls both sides of the trailer and not as shown in that flashing each trailer side independently. The plug pin out is an industry std:

GetBoosted

Thanks very much for the info on why you opted for what you did. That is very helpful.