Friend's Cayman S new OEM brake rotors cracking at first DE. Normal?
08-26-2017, 02:43 PM
#1
Friend's Cayman S new OEM brake rotors cracking at first DE. Normal?
Friend just got new rotors two weeks ago.
OEM Porsche drilled.
He said they are already starting to crack on first DE event.
Is this normal?
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POST #7
OEM Porsche drilled.
He said they are already starting to crack on first DE event.
Is this normal?
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POST #7
Last edited by sugarwood; 10-21-2017 at 08:53 AM.
08-26-2017, 03:11 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
08-26-2017, 03:34 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
yep... i dont think any here have more experience with this, and this is what they look like after a short time on the track..... as was mentioned.. when the cracks start joining each other or reach the outer edge, time to pitch them. go solid. they last a lot longer. and then if you really care..... go 2 piece. they will last 10 x longer.
08-26-2017, 04:27 PM
#5
08-26-2017, 04:29 PM
#6
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Rennlist Member
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Originally Posted by sugarwood
Friend just got new rotors two weeks ago.
OEM Porsche drilled.
He said they are already starting to crack on first DE event.
Is this normal?
OEM Porsche drilled.
He said they are already starting to crack on first DE event.
Is this normal?
10-21-2017, 08:51 AM
#7
Here is the latest. Does he need to replace the rotors yet?
He says,
He says,
Pagid Pads has about 11 track days (down to about 30%) and rotors with the large cracks (front) have about 7 track days. Will need to replace all pads and might get another few days from the rotors.
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10-21-2017, 09:08 AM
#8
10-21-2017, 09:15 AM
#9
Cracking looks normal for track use. Should also check thickness. Looks like a 981, correct? To change the front pads you need to remove the caliper so the additional time/work to swap rotors is negligible. The Girodisc 2-piece rotors seem to be popular.
10-21-2017, 10:24 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Cracking looks normal and as others have said, the OEM rotors really aren't up for track abuse - congrats for pushing the car hard enough to get the rotors to this level 
Solid slotted is the way to go. I have Girodisks on the front, really like them but they are expensive ($1200 new, $800 for replacement rotors - the hats are kept) and I have Sebros in the rear. Last time I replaced the Sebros they were $250 for the pair. While the Sebros aren't fancy two piece rotors with extra cooling built into the hats they are a LOT cheaper. They work equal to the Giros and have about the same life.
Solid slotted is the way to go. I have Girodisks on the front, really like them but they are expensive ($1200 new, $800 for replacement rotors - the hats are kept) and I have Sebros in the rear. Last time I replaced the Sebros they were $250 for the pair. While the Sebros aren't fancy two piece rotors with extra cooling built into the hats they are a LOT cheaper. They work equal to the Giros and have about the same life.
10-21-2017, 10:58 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
IMO, he is pretty hard on brakes. He needs to learn how to use more engine braking (downshifting), and get stouter rotors. Have home take a look at Girodiscs...
10-21-2017, 11:49 AM
#12
Umm, what?? Those rotors look perfectly fine for tracked discs, and they have plenty of life left in them. Newb question...
And, yes, Sebro slotted are better and what I prefer.
And, yes, Sebro slotted are better and what I prefer.
10-21-2017, 12:05 PM
#13
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That's the last thing you want to do on the track.
The rotors look fine. Keep abusing them and keep inspecting them. Replace when the cracks start to connect or reach an edge. I use slotted rotors from LC motorsports.
10-21-2017, 12:13 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
The problem I had with the cross drilled rotors was the Tech Inspectors for different clubs. Some were okay (looking for connecting cracks, cracks to the edge, or really wide cracks) while others were overly stringent (anything over 7/32) which isn't a good thing to find out when arriving at the track (already paid, already packed up, already there, etc.). Beyond all the other advantages the solid rotors gave me peace of mind that I wouldn't get pulled out of a Tech Inspection.
10-21-2017, 02:11 PM
#15
The problem I had with the cross drilled rotors was the Tech Inspectors for different clubs. Some were okay (looking for connecting cracks, cracks to the edge, or really wide cracks) while others were overly stringent (anything over 7/32) which isn't a good thing to find out when arriving at the track (already paid, already packed up, already there, etc.). Beyond all the other advantages the solid rotors gave me peace of mind that I wouldn't get pulled out of a Tech Inspection.
That is BS. If they have that requirement it needs to be stated on the tech form. Or was it and you just overlooked it?