NC TRACKRAT

Changed the oil for the first time on wife's Turbo this afternoon. Pretty straight-forward based on previous posts however, I chose to do it without raising the front end. Having the vehicle level will allow you to drain the pan more completely than if the front end is raised on ramps. It's snug but doable. (This is a PASM with steel springs). All fasteners are accessable and the underbelly panel is easily removed. The drain plug and oil filter cannister are readily accessible on the forward passenger side. (DO NOT remove the drain plug to the rear near the black X-brace. That's for the PDK!) Drain the pan first, then remove the filter cannister.
Be sure to retrieve the crush washer from the drain plug and replace with a new one (p/n 900 123 152 30). It's a 22mm od 16mm id. It may well stick to the oil pan or drop down into your drain pan. Torque the drain plug to 18 lb.-ft (216 in.-lb.)
The filter cannister is removed with a 36mm socket. Let the oil in the cannister drain before completely removing it. Remove the old filter and clean the innerds of the cannister. Remove the old O-Ring and install the new one, coating it with fresh oil. Before installing the new filter, "condition" it by inserting a 27mm socket in each end. It will allow you to get the threads of the housing started much easier. Torque to 18 lb.-ft. (216 in.-lb.). If you're the least bit concerned about leaks, keep the underbelly panel off until you drive and check oil level.
Fill with 8 qt. of your chosen oil. I use MOBIL1 0W40. In order to get a measurement on your read-out, you have to drive a minimum of 6 miles (10km) before it will register. Stop on level ground, shut off engine, wait 2 min., then get a read-out. Add oil as required. (Full range of the gauge from min. to max. is 1.06 qt./1 L.) As stated by others, it's much easier to add oil than to remove. Remember, every time you raise the hood, you need to drive at least 6 miles before you can get an oil level read-out.
Hope the above info. is of benefit.

Rubik

Thanks for the write up. ... And no way I'm waiting 10K miles between oil changes like the factory recommends.

NC TRACKRAT

Yeah, she just turned 4k miles and I figured getting rid of that break-in oil wouldn't hurt. Granted, 8-1/2 qts. of full synthetic is a lot of oil but 10k mi.? Maybe, if they were mostly highway but not normal stop-and-go. BMW/MINI wants you to go 15k mi. between service...No way! 7,500 is more like it!

Powereng

The distance between oil changes has been debated so much and most of the time without anything other than...."no way, not good for the engine" etc etc etc. wish I still had the oil test results that we did at 10k of normal driving with my 550i and the oil still having over 85% of its lubricating property and test results showed it could easily go twice the distance. But if it makes you sleep better....
Try to find a recent oil related engine failure were synthetic was involved.
But great write up on the oil change, thank you for taking the time to do it.

NC TRACKRAT

Many years ago, someone told me that "Anyone who has a dirty engine compartment probably wears dirty underpants". I guess I feel the same way about oil. Yes, it does make me feel better, kinda like "A just-washed car drives better than a dirty one."

Rubik

NC, I was going to change the oil at below 5000 this weekend but I realized I had not ordered the filter canister o'ring. I'm surprized that the factory filter (which is Mahle BTW) does not come with the o'ring.

Now I have to order that separately! A bit annoyed about it.

NC TRACKRAT

Mahle OX254D4 has the O-ring included in the box. Try www.rockauto.com for an excellent price. I ordered 3 which should last me a while.

Rubik

Went to the Porsche dealer here to get the o'rings.

They had 3 orange GT3s and and F12 in the showroom. Made me want to stay there and just admire those cars.

Rubik

So, yesterday I changed the oil on the Macan. It had 5185 miles. Here are a few added tips:
1) It's best to have a lift. If not, use ramps. The bottom is pretty tight. While you can easily open the front part of the cover panel, the rear part requires a lot of stretching to reach all the torx screws.
2) If you are using a 36mm socket, make sure you have a 1/2" ratchet. If you have a 3/8 drive and have to use an adaptor, the combination gets so tall that you can't fit it. (It's even worse for the torque wrench.)
3) When reinstalling the underside cover panel, insert the front lip under the bumper cover trim tongues before you install the back and screw it in.
4) Be careful with the filter housing, it has a tendency to screw in crooked and you could potentially mess up the teeth.
5) If you drain it pretty well and use about 8.2 quarts of oil, your reading sits smack in the middle.
6) There are 2 beefy plastic fasteners on the undercover panel that are a PITA to remove. Be careful not to break them!

Now here are my rants because there were a few disappointments from having done this oil change:
1) Why the he*l couldn't they provide more space for unscrewing the filter housing? It's all the way to the right side corner and there is just no room.
2) Why is the filter housing so low to the ground? Some poor sole is going to take their Macan on an obstacle course (thinking it's an SUV) and is going to break the filter housing and potentially lose an engine. For an SUV, you should not have to worry about sh*t like that. Also, that fiber composite cover panel is not going to do crap about protecting the filter housing. When I had an ML, the filter housing was up top next to the oil filling port; very convenient and safe.
3) Why the he*l is the undercover panel so big? It's a frikkin mile long. Why couldn't they have made it in 2 sections: Front section, and rear section. For oil change you would only remove the front piece and there would not be an opportunity for some idiot to "accidentally" open the wrong drain plug (PDK drain plug).

I'm all in about $100 for this oil change. But considering that I don't have a lift and the removal of the cover panel is a PITA, I wonder if a $300 oil change is justified in this case? Congratulations Porsche!

Finally, as soon as some underside skid pate becomes available, I would seriously consider buying one. The filter housing is just a sitting duck ready to be hit with something.

Powereng

I though I saw someplace that skid plates where available. I will need to see where I saw this though.

SteveFromMN

I don't think that is the right O ring. My 2015 Cayenne S and I believe the Macan turbo use Porsche P946-107-322-76 it is thicker .
Check to make sure you have the right O ring.

NC TRACKRAT

As I recall, to my "calibrated" eyeball, the one in the Mahle box looked to be the same as the one I removed. So far, after 3,000 miles since changing, we haven't lost a drop of oil nor used any. By the way, p/n 946-107-322-76 doesn't show up on any Porsche parts locator. P/n 946-107-322-75 is the specified part for both Macan S and Macan Turbo.

1MORLAP

His last weekend in addition to installing winter tires/wheels I also did my own oil change. My driveway slopes down towards the street and when the front is on ramps the car is parallel to earth.

Anyway, doing it first time the job took longer than it should have, but I will have no issues next time. Filling 8 quarts after change is a great start as you will be safe on the low side.

Now, I waited to 10K... that is too long. I have never seen oil that black! True, I have not performed analysis in it, to see how it fared - I will next time.

I highly recommend that at least the first oil change comes earlier, perhaps at 3K.

SteveFromMN

Sorry my typeo it is 946-107-322-75. It is thicker then the one that goes in my 997 which is the one that comes with the Mahle. I order the Mahle filters online to use both with my 997 and Cayenne and then buy the oil ring for the Cayenne from the dealer $7.95. The thiner one may work and it may not leak but it is not the same as the one that came on my Cayenne from the factory.
There must be a reason they changed the part for these engines.

NC TRACKRAT

O.K....Now, does anyone know of a way to delete the "Change Engine Oil Now" message that appears as you start the vehicle other than going to the dealer or purchasing a Durametric Kit? No funny suggestions to cover it with tape!